How to properly set up a Boosted TH400/LSx?

I'm running a Twin Turbo 404 ci LS2 with a full Auto forward TH400. Yank 3600 Stall. Internals unknown. I want to keep the automatic shifting feature as this is a street car. But I want to set this combo up right, and to it's fullest potential when time comes for track days and spirited runs. So here goes...
Currently, the trans is running the Vac modulator with NO check valve. Shifting works ok while cruising around. It will shift real early in "Drive" when I go to WOT.
1. CHECK VALVES
Where can these Boost "Check Valves" be located? (who sells them?) Are these check valves made specifically for this purpose? Or are they regular ol' check valves?
2. Kick down cables. Are you guys running these on your Turbo/Supercharged applications? I understand that Manual VB's don't apply here. What about the full auto guys? Is there a need for this, and what are the Pros and Cons of having this hooked up?
I'd like to get this combo set up the right way. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by BlwnLs1GTO; Aug 10, 2013 at 02:05 PM.
I'm set up for a Dyno Tune this Saturday. Please help! Thank you.
I guess I have to spend money with a vendor to get some answers.
From other sources, it looks like I might be purchasing a FMVB and ditching the Auto feature.
Thanks for the help.
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You can use auto feature with big power in a TH400 but the hydraulics need to be properly setup. Most shops don't understand the hydraulics and assume they must use a manual valve body. A manual valve body is "easier" for them. Most FMVB's change NOTHING except force the VB to be manually shifted. The shift valves still move, everything in the VB is still active, fluid still flows the same way. So that's not a magical improvement and no reason an auto shifted VB can't do it as well.
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You can use auto feature with big power in a TH400 but the hydraulics need to be properly setup. Most shops don't understand the hydraulics and assume they must use a manual valve body. A manual valve body is "easier" for them. Most FMVB's change NOTHING except force the VB to be manually shifted. The shift valves still move, everything in the VB is still active, fluid still flows the same way. So that's not a magical improvement and no reason an auto shifted VB can't do it as well.
So do you think I can get away with the Auto feature if I put in a couple of these check valves and set up the kick down cable?
Or would I need to order a valve body from you that is set up specifically for this purpose?
Thanks again.
So do you think I can get away with the Auto feature if I put in a couple of these check valves and set up the kick down cable?
Or would I need to order a valve body from you that is set up specifically for this purpose?
Thanks again.




