binding 4l60e in first gear.
binding 4l60e in first gear. I have a 4l60E that is what I would describe as binding in 1st gear, manual low or drive range.What I mean by binding is it takes excessive pedal to move forward and the rear tires will actually lock up/slide when letting off the pedal.As soon as it shifts to 2nd, it will immediately unbind, feels like a rubber band snapping..reverse, 2nd, 3rd, and OD is all good.Band clearance is within specifications.*Any ideas on this one? I dont know history on transmission other than it was rebuilt by a well known shop years ago and has been sitting. I finished the project car it was in and found this problem. So far I have switched valve body with known good valve body of the same year 94. Also removed transmission and checked everything sprag, clutches. Exc. Ive built over 20 4l60e's never had a problem like this. And yes the trans is getting power and ground signals. Thanks in advanced for the help.__________________
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
We had a similar thread just a few weeks ago (sorry I cannot find it.)
I and others suggested a problem with the low/reverse clutch, but Frank (PerformaBuilt) thought a problem with the servo was more likely.
If the band is dragging, it will be binding in 1st gear, but be perfect in 2nd gear.
Have you measured the end play for the band? This can be done by depressing the servo cover with a crowbar and measuring/estimating how much it moves. Around .075 (bit more than 1/16") is the spec. Somewhere around half that the band will start dragging.
I and others suggested a problem with the low/reverse clutch, but Frank (PerformaBuilt) thought a problem with the servo was more likely.
If the band is dragging, it will be binding in 1st gear, but be perfect in 2nd gear.
Have you measured the end play for the band? This can be done by depressing the servo cover with a crowbar and measuring/estimating how much it moves. Around .075 (bit more than 1/16") is the spec. Somewhere around half that the band will start dragging.
If the trans has the Trango shift kit in it and is in limp mode it will drag / bind in the manual low position as the 2nd band will remain applied even in the manual low position with the low reverse clutch applied effectively making a transbrake.
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Frank: any chance you can find the link to the thread I mentioned that also had a dragging 1st gear?
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I would look to see where mainline pressure could be getting into the 2nd clutch circuit to eliminate your issue. Seems to me that this is where your issue is due to the fact that the problem goes away once the trans shifts to second gear. Just a thought. Vince
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My 4l60e is doing the same thing.
6.0 4l60e in a Jeep.
Seemed to work fine until I made some adjustments to the trans shifter linkage and then in first and it would bind as described above. Unhooked the shifter linkage and manually put in in first. same binding problem
2nd and third worked but wouldn't do anything in the drive position
Just bought this Jeep and the previous owner told me the trans was rebuilt and a shift kit and z pak clutches
When I test drove it I manually shifted it as I do in my Jeep
and never tried it in drive to see if it shifted on its own. But noticed I was only getting 2 gears.
It has a 4 speed transfer case so plenty of gearing options with only two gears and did not go over 45 mph as it has 43" tires and full hydro steering.
Any ideas what to check?
Was told by my trans guy the shifter combs could have been bent from torquing the shifter pawl on the side of the trans. He is busy for a few weeks until he can look at it.
6.0 4l60e in a Jeep.
Seemed to work fine until I made some adjustments to the trans shifter linkage and then in first and it would bind as described above. Unhooked the shifter linkage and manually put in in first. same binding problem
2nd and third worked but wouldn't do anything in the drive position
Just bought this Jeep and the previous owner told me the trans was rebuilt and a shift kit and z pak clutches
When I test drove it I manually shifted it as I do in my Jeep
and never tried it in drive to see if it shifted on its own. But noticed I was only getting 2 gears.
It has a 4 speed transfer case so plenty of gearing options with only two gears and did not go over 45 mph as it has 43" tires and full hydro steering.
Any ideas what to check?
Was told by my trans guy the shifter combs could have been bent from torquing the shifter pawl on the side of the trans. He is busy for a few weeks until he can look at it.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
The trans has its own shifter shaft detents. If your shifter has detents and doesn't align exactly with the trans, the hydraulics will be half in one position and half in another resulting in call kinds of strange problems.
Your mention that problems occurred after adjusting the linkage make me say this.
Remove the shift cable from the trans, move the trans shift rod to each position, move your shifter to the same corresponding position and confirm that they agree.
Your mention that problems occurred after adjusting the linkage make me say this.
Remove the shift cable from the trans, move the trans shift rod to each position, move your shifter to the same corresponding position and confirm that they agree.
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The trans has its own shifter shaft detents. If your shifter has detents and doesn't align exactly with the trans, the hydraulics will be half in one position and half in another resulting in call kinds of strange problems.
Your mention that problems occurred after adjusting the linkage make me say this.
Remove the shift cable from the trans, move the trans shift rod to each position, move your shifter to the same corresponding position and confirm that they agree.
Your mention that problems occurred after adjusting the linkage make me say this.
Remove the shift cable from the trans, move the trans shift rod to each position, move your shifter to the same corresponding position and confirm that they agree.
Here is a pic of what I am working on.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
No need to drop the pan.
Remove the shifter cable and as you turn the shifter bracket on the trans you will feel the detents. They are quite stiff.
You did not specify what kind of shifter you have in the Jeep. Does it have detents?
What you called the "prndl switch", presumably on the side of the trans with the shift linkage going through it performs these functions:
1. Acts the Park/Neutral safety switch with the signal to the starter going through it.
2. Enables the back-up lights in Reverse
3. Tell the PCM whether you are in Park/Neutral or Drive; the PCM typically supplies more gas in Drive to keep the RPM constant.
Remove the shifter cable and as you turn the shifter bracket on the trans you will feel the detents. They are quite stiff.
You did not specify what kind of shifter you have in the Jeep. Does it have detents?
What you called the "prndl switch", presumably on the side of the trans with the shift linkage going through it performs these functions:
1. Acts the Park/Neutral safety switch with the signal to the starter going through it.
2. Enables the back-up lights in Reverse
3. Tell the PCM whether you are in Park/Neutral or Drive; the PCM typically supplies more gas in Drive to keep the RPM constant.
Teching In
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No need to drop the pan.
Remove the shifter cable and as you turn the shifter bracket on the trans you will feel th. detents. They are quite stiff.
You did not specify what kind of shifter you have in the Jeep. Does it have detents?
What you called the "prndl switch", presumably on the side of the trans with the shift linkage going through it performs these functions:
1. Acts the Park/Neutral safety switch with the signal to the starter going through it.
2. Enables the back-up lights in Reverse
3. Tell the PCM whether you are in Park/Neutral or Drive; the PCM typically supplies more gas in Drive to keep the RPM constant.
Remove the shifter cable and as you turn the shifter bracket on the trans you will feel th. detents. They are quite stiff.
You did not specify what kind of shifter you have in the Jeep. Does it have detents?
What you called the "prndl switch", presumably on the side of the trans with the shift linkage going through it performs these functions:
1. Acts the Park/Neutral safety switch with the signal to the starter going through it.
2. Enables the back-up lights in Reverse
3. Tell the PCM whether you are in Park/Neutral or Drive; the PCM typically supplies more gas in Drive to keep the RPM constant.
I dont know if it ever shifted on its own
But I did have it manually shifting in all gears after adjusting the shifter linkage
the previous owner adjusted it again because he didn't like how it went into park.
I readjusted it and then this first gear bind issue and only second and third gear.
I have not tried putting it in drive manually without the shifter yet to see if it will shift on its own
I was told it does not have a full manual valve body but the short time I shifted through all gears it never shifted automatically
Keep us updated on this. I just finished my build and it's doing the same thing when I manually command first.. I thought the trans had entered limp mode but the car has OD and the converter is locking up. Considering I'm not using the factory shifter, it might be the problem.
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Keep us updated on this. I just finished my build and it's doing the same thing when I manually command first.. I thought the trans had entered limp mode but the car has OD and the converter is locking up. Considering I'm not using the factory shifter, it might be the problem.
Looks like I just found the issue. Bad 2-3 shift solenoid
Start with a scanner and see if you have codes
And then go here.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Interesting, I was not aware that a bad 2-3 shift (B) solenoid could cause a bind. Always eager to learn more.
Do you know what was bad about the solenoid? Did you test it with an ohm meter? Is it open or shorted? Is the plunger stuck? Are the filter clogged?
Do you know what was bad about the solenoid? Did you test it with an ohm meter? Is it open or shorted? Is the plunger stuck? Are the filter clogged?
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Originally Posted by mrvedit;18. 2691
Interesting, I was not a. re that a bad 2-3 shift (B) solenoid could cause a bind. Always eager to learn more.
Do you know what was bad about the solenoid? Did you test it with an ohm meter? Is it open or shorted? Is the plunger stuck? Are the filter clogged?
Do you know what was bad about the solenoid? Did you test it with an ohm meter? Is it open or shorted? Is the plunger stuck? Are the filter clogged?
Just picked up the parts and forgot to get a filter so back to the store I go.