3-4 clutches 4l60
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
While a few members have had luck (with an emphasis on Luck) with the Z-pak, none of the sponsors or pro builders on this forum that I have spoken to (about 10 of them) would now use the Z-pak.
All of them think highly of the Borg Warner High Energy (BW HE) with either 7 or 8 frictions.
Not a single builder that I spoke to recommends Alto Red frictions for the 3/4 clutch.
Here is a recent thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...tchs-4l60.html
If your budget allows a high-end rebuild, Sonnax makes an improved input drum:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-4-clutch.html
I have personally used the BW HE, the equivalent Raybestos GPZ100 and am now using the Raybestos Blue in the Sonnax Input drum. All have held up perfectly for me.
The stock 4L65E setup uses 7 .067 frictions and 6 .095 steels. Since this is a big improvement over the stock 6 frictions in a 4L60E, I always recommend rebuilding with a 4L65E kit as the extra friction is the only difference.
When going with 8 frictions, some pro builders prefer going with thinner steels (.080 frictions with .060 steels) while others prefer thinner frictions (.062 frictions with .080 steels).
I don't have the experience to judge which is better, but it seems when properly built with quality parts either works fine.
Other advice I have gotten includes to also use a brand new thickest .223 apply plate to reduce the chance of coning.
There are many opinions about the best clearance for the 3/4 clutch. For brown frictions (e.g. BW HE), the typical preference is in the .025 to .040 range, definitely less than .050. I suggest .003 to .005 PER friction.
For Raybestos Blue the suggestion is .005 to .008 PER friction.
A proper build is more important than anything else. Any leakage of the 3/4 apply fluid will quickly lead to clutch failure.
1. Make sure the 3rd accumulator check ball in the case (by the servo) is not leaking. Replace if any doubt.
2. Air test the input drum to ensure the clutches have firm engagement.
3. Drill the 3rd feed hole in the separator plate to at least .093; some go to .125 (1/8"). This not only maximizes the fluid to the 3/4 clutch to reduce slippage while it engages, but also helps overcome any small leaks.
Perhaps some of the pro builders will have advice and "proven combinations".
All of them think highly of the Borg Warner High Energy (BW HE) with either 7 or 8 frictions.
Not a single builder that I spoke to recommends Alto Red frictions for the 3/4 clutch.
Here is a recent thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...tchs-4l60.html
If your budget allows a high-end rebuild, Sonnax makes an improved input drum:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-4-clutch.html
I have personally used the BW HE, the equivalent Raybestos GPZ100 and am now using the Raybestos Blue in the Sonnax Input drum. All have held up perfectly for me.
The stock 4L65E setup uses 7 .067 frictions and 6 .095 steels. Since this is a big improvement over the stock 6 frictions in a 4L60E, I always recommend rebuilding with a 4L65E kit as the extra friction is the only difference.
When going with 8 frictions, some pro builders prefer going with thinner steels (.080 frictions with .060 steels) while others prefer thinner frictions (.062 frictions with .080 steels).
I don't have the experience to judge which is better, but it seems when properly built with quality parts either works fine.
Other advice I have gotten includes to also use a brand new thickest .223 apply plate to reduce the chance of coning.
There are many opinions about the best clearance for the 3/4 clutch. For brown frictions (e.g. BW HE), the typical preference is in the .025 to .040 range, definitely less than .050. I suggest .003 to .005 PER friction.
For Raybestos Blue the suggestion is .005 to .008 PER friction.
A proper build is more important than anything else. Any leakage of the 3/4 apply fluid will quickly lead to clutch failure.
1. Make sure the 3rd accumulator check ball in the case (by the servo) is not leaking. Replace if any doubt.
2. Air test the input drum to ensure the clutches have firm engagement.
3. Drill the 3rd feed hole in the separator plate to at least .093; some go to .125 (1/8"). This not only maximizes the fluid to the 3/4 clutch to reduce slippage while it engages, but also helps overcome any small leaks.
Perhaps some of the pro builders will have advice and "proven combinations".
Really? Of course I'm going back a few years now when I used them. I've since moved on the 4l80e.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
