Gearing questions
I have 3.73s w/ a 3600 stall and IMO its the perfect street setup and I love the way it drives. I do a lot of in town driving and its not bad at all. On the highway the rpms are a noticeable amount higher than the stock 3.23s but its tolerable. Some people say 4.10s shouldnt be in an auto and some people love them so its personal preference.
What makes you think you can hook up 3.73s or
higher, behind any converter worth having? If you
can't hook it up than you don't go any faster, just
pay and pay (rubber and gas). I got nothing but a
mild grin going from 3.23s to 3.42s, timeslips did not
move because traction limited. Fix the right thing.
higher, behind any converter worth having? If you
can't hook it up than you don't go any faster, just
pay and pay (rubber and gas). I got nothing but a
mild grin going from 3.23s to 3.42s, timeslips did not
move because traction limited. Fix the right thing.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I have 3.73s w/ a 3600 stall and IMO its the perfect street setup and I love the way it drives. I do a lot of in town driving and its not bad at all. On the highway the rpms are a noticeable amount higher than the stock 3.23s but its tolerable. Some people say 4.10s shouldnt be in an auto and some people love them so its personal preference.
What makes you think you can hook up 3.73s or
higher, behind any converter worth having? If you
can't hook it up than you don't go any faster, just
pay and pay (rubber and gas). I got nothing but a
mild grin going from 3.23s to 3.42s, timeslips did not
move because traction limited. Fix the right thing.
higher, behind any converter worth having? If you
can't hook it up than you don't go any faster, just
pay and pay (rubber and gas). I got nothing but a
mild grin going from 3.23s to 3.42s, timeslips did not
move because traction limited. Fix the right thing.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Assuming ET is a high priority, you want to be near peak HP at the finish line. Based on your tire size, you then select the correct rear ratio. Other than than a 4.11 does nothing but make noise and use more gas.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I'll bet it doesn't contradict other experts with 11,000+ posts here. I'm not an expert, but I fully agree with JimmyBlue. I have trouble with traction with my 3.42 and therefore a 3.73 or 4.11 would be much worse.
Assuming ET is a high priority, you want to be near peak HP at the finish line. Based on your tire size, you then select the correct rear ratio. Other than than a 4.11 does nothing but make noise and use more gas.
Assuming ET is a high priority, you want to be near peak HP at the finish line. Based on your tire size, you then select the correct rear ratio. Other than than a 4.11 does nothing but make noise and use more gas.
3.73s' and a 3600 is considered the ideal combination for best performance by most users here.
As above 3.23s'(or 3.42s') with a convertor is also a good performing combination.
I had 4.56s' with 3600 for a few years, great 1/8 miler. I'm back to 3.23s' with 3600. I do miss those 4.56s' !
As above 3.23s'(or 3.42s') with a convertor is also a good performing combination.
I had 4.56s' with 3600 for a few years, great 1/8 miler. I'm back to 3.23s' with 3600. I do miss those 4.56s' !
