Originally Posted by .boB

Heat is a big enemy for an auto trans. The higher the temps go, the shorter the trans life. OTOH, if the oil doesn't get up to proper operating temp, it doesn't work correctly either.

The cooler in the radiator is actually a heat exchanger. It's goal is to stabilize the trans temp with the coolant temp. Keeps the oil warm in the winter, and cool in the summer. For millions of cars on the road, that works just fine. But higher loads and higher stall speeds can add a lot of heat. Then you need to add an additional cooler.

The most efficient are plate style, like Mocal or Earls. I prefer to use AN style threaded fittings and hoses, but lots of people do fine with barbed fittings and rubber hoses on a universal type cooler. You get what you pay for.

If you drive where it can be really cold, put the cooler before the heat exchanger. If you only drive in fair weather or live in a hot climate, put it after the exchanger.

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4

You're numbers are pure garbage, you're post was garbage. I was trying to be nice but actually, what you posted has no relevancy here. Why does it not you ask? Because the numbers don't add up to OUR cars. I've ran just about every combo of thermostat, fan settings, and trans cooler settings. I've had digital trans and coolant temp gauges from the beginning. NOTHING you can tell me about these cars will mean jack to me. I've posted a ton of times how the trans/motor temps run with different setups, and those posts are still here if the OP wants to search around some. If he doesn't want to search and wants to know something in particular, I can give him factual data from MY fbody. You can't.

Originally Posted by Troy5061

I run my stock 6 spd radiator without a trans cooler in it and got one of these bad *****. Had some heat issues with 4L60e and didn't feel like playing that game again with the 4L80e. Buy once cry once.

http://derale.com/products/coolers/t...ler-kit-detail