4L60e rebuild
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
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4L60e rebuild I want to rebuild my 4L60e (3600 stall) to handle 600+ hp/tq. I have a Transgo HD2 waiting to go in it but was wondering what other rebuild kits I should be looking into. What do you guys say?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
600+ torque is really pushing it with a 4L60E.
Who is rebuilding the trans? Have they built a trans at that level before?
If not, you should consider a well build unit from sponsors FLT, RPM or PerformaBuilt.
Here are some issues:
* 3/4 clutch - I would go with 8 Blue frictions with .040 to .050 clearance
Better yet, get the Sonnax SmartTech input housing ($400) to hold 9 frictions in a more rigid housing.
* Use a wide carbon band; this requires a new reverse drum.
* ABSOLUTELY must install a stronger Sun shell; Sonnax Smart Shell is a good choice.
* Billet output shaft ($500)
* Probably upgrade to 5-pinion planets. The front reaction carrier and bearing MUST also now be upgraded. Best to get a kit of all the parts.
* Optionally a billet input shaft
The sponsors will charge $3000+ for such a trans because that is what it takes to reliably hold that power level.
Alternatively, $3000+ may cover the cost of a stock rebuild of a junkyard 4L80E and the parts/effort to swap it into your car for a much more reliable setup.
Who is rebuilding the trans? Have they built a trans at that level before?
If not, you should consider a well build unit from sponsors FLT, RPM or PerformaBuilt.
Here are some issues:
* 3/4 clutch - I would go with 8 Blue frictions with .040 to .050 clearance
Better yet, get the Sonnax SmartTech input housing ($400) to hold 9 frictions in a more rigid housing.
* Use a wide carbon band; this requires a new reverse drum.
* ABSOLUTELY must install a stronger Sun shell; Sonnax Smart Shell is a good choice.
* Billet output shaft ($500)
* Probably upgrade to 5-pinion planets. The front reaction carrier and bearing MUST also now be upgraded. Best to get a kit of all the parts.
* Optionally a billet input shaft
The sponsors will charge $3000+ for such a trans because that is what it takes to reliably hold that power level.
Alternatively, $3000+ may cover the cost of a stock rebuild of a junkyard 4L80E and the parts/effort to swap it into your car for a much more reliable setup.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The 4L80E is based on the bullet-proof TH400. It is used in trucks, mobile homes and other heavy vehicles. A stock 4L80E handles 700HP and can be built to handle 2000+HP.
Is is a bit heavier and bigger, but many people have fit them in their Gen-4 and many other vehicles.
It only loses about 5HP more than a 4L60E. Its tighter gear ratios often make a car faster at the strip than a 4L60E.
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 969
Likes: 119
With 600-675FWHP you do not need the 5 pinion planets, billet input or output shafts, Sonnax SmartTech input housing, the extra wide band or the Blue Plate Specials, etc. I have built and have helped many people with getting their transmissions using my Pro Street rebuild kit into the (9's, 10's & 11's) over the years using mainly stock parts and very rarely breaking anything. With the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 9 clutch 3-4 setup, adding the steel sleeve to the input drum (to keep it from breaking), Hi-Energy 2-4 band, Corvette servo or the Sonnax 2nd apply servo, .490" or .500" boost valve or the TransGo HD2 if you want to hold 1st gear to any rpm, cryoing the output shaft (1/10th the price of a billet shaft) if you are running sticky tires, a heavy vehicle, or using a lot of NOS off the line, the right size feed holes in the separator plate with matching accumulation, updated sunshell (a choice of 3), the better input sprag (a choice of 2), the right torque converter and other minor changes. You can do the same here, run 9's and 10's without spending a lot of money. Now with the money you saved you can update the rear end. If you want or feel you need these extra parts, and you have the extra money, go ahead. If you have the transmission shift to hard, then these extra pieces start to become necessary. Build it right and the factory parts work very well for most applications. If these recommendations did not work, then I would hear a lot of complaints from my customers.
Last edited by PBA; Jan 25, 2014 at 04:50 AM.
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With 600-675FWHP you do not need the 5 pinion planets, billet input or output shafts, Sonnax SmartTech input housing, the extra wide band or the Blue Plate Specials, etc. I have built and have helped many people with getting their transmissions using my Pro Street rebuild kit into the (9's, 10's & 11's) over the years using mainly stock parts and very rarely breaking anything. With the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 9 clutch 3-4 setup, adding the steel sleeve to the input drum (to keep it from breaking), Hi-Energy 2-4 band, Corvette servo or the Sonnax 2nd apply servo, .490" or .500" boost valve or the TransGo HD2 if you want to hold 1st gear to any rpm, cryoing the output shaft (1/10th the price of a billet shaft) if you are running sticky tires, a heavy vehicle, or using a lot of NOS off the line, the right size feed holes in the separator plate with matching accumulation, updated sunshell (a choice of 3), the better input sprag (a choice of 2), the right torque converter and other minor changes. You can do the same here, run 9's and 10's without spending a lot of money. Now with the money you saved you can update the rear end. If you want or feel you need these extra parts, and you have the extra money, go ahead. If you have the transmission shift to hard, then these extra pieces start to become necessary. Build it right and the factory parts work very well for most applications. If these recommendations did not work, then I would hear a lot of complaints from my customers.
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Verdad Gallardo when i got my roller i was told the trans was built to hold 750hp... i recently opened it up because i had a tci torque converter go out and it has a very similar build to what pba just said (mine has a different 3-4 clutch pack). it was holding up fine on my cammed/bolt on 5.3 on a 200 shot with sticky tires.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
PBA has 1000 times more experience than me and I always defer to him. He has been doing this for 25+ years.
I guess that I am overbuilding my transmissions, but since I am buying and sharing information here on all the aftermarket parts, I of course use them.
Based only on reading the experiences of many people here, somewhere around the 700HP or 600 ft/lb torque level, a 4L80E starts to make sense.
I guess that I am overbuilding my transmissions, but since I am buying and sharing information here on all the aftermarket parts, I of course use them.
Based only on reading the experiences of many people here, somewhere around the 700HP or 600 ft/lb torque level, a 4L80E starts to make sense.
PBA has 1000 times more experience than me and I always defer to him. He has been doing this for 25+ years.
I guess that I am overbuilding my transmissions, but since I am buying and sharing information here on all the aftermarket parts, I of course use them.
Based only on reading the experiences of many people here, somewhere around the 700HP or 600 ft/lb torque level, a 4L80E starts to make sense.
I guess that I am overbuilding my transmissions, but since I am buying and sharing information here on all the aftermarket parts, I of course use them.
Based only on reading the experiences of many people here, somewhere around the 700HP or 600 ft/lb torque level, a 4L80E starts to make sense.
If you want 600+, get away from the 4L60E! I just shredded my tranny again about a week ago. It MIGHT last for awhile, but not too long. I'm making around 650 and it broke around the 60ft mark at the track!
