Done with the 4l80 Swap!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 651
Likes: 10
From: North Carolina
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....-compatibility
and here is something shortuning posted earlier.
and here is something shortuning posted earlier.
In that pic, it indicates a "4L60E", but it is displaying the Gear Ratio's for a "4L80E" . . . Why is that ?
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Dyno Tuning in KY
That's because this is a 4L60E tune. He is using a harness that adapts the 60e tune to be used with an 80e trans. The gear ratios are used to back calculate input shaft rpm from the output shaft rpm in a 60e calibration because there is no input shaft speed sensor like an 80e has.
I have scrapped the idea of using this 60e/80e retro harness and am going to have Jared pull it and replace it with correct wiring for the 80e to the PCM and segment swap the tune for an actual 80e tune. I have access to all the tables in an 80e segment to operate it how it will need to be done. No unlocking converter at 0% tps and ability to lock it in low gear without it automatically shifting out can be done with the 80e now.
I have scrapped the idea of using this 60e/80e retro harness and am going to have Jared pull it and replace it with correct wiring for the 80e to the PCM and segment swap the tune for an actual 80e tune. I have access to all the tables in an 80e segment to operate it how it will need to be done. No unlocking converter at 0% tps and ability to lock it in low gear without it automatically shifting out can be done with the 80e now.
Forgive my ignorance with the LS PCM but I didn't have to do any segment swap with the LT1 PCM. The stock 4l60e tune with minor adjustments works great. So my question is why can't the LS PCM do the same?
Sometimes it helps to start fresh and try another way so you can rule out ****!
we swapped over to a BP auto harness. Did the segment swap. does not work. 2nd gear limp mode, same as before. over a month waiting to hit the dyno. not sure what to do.
the shop I am using is going to make some phone calls tomorrow. I wish i could go back in time and ask for FMVB an avoid all this.
hate to hear your selling the car chris. susprised the manual controller box didnt resolve the issue.
we swapped over to a BP auto harness. Did the segment swap. does not work. 2nd gear limp mode, same as before. over a month waiting to hit the dyno. not sure what to do.
the shop I am using is going to make some phone calls tomorrow. I wish i could go back in time and ask for FMVB an avoid all this.
we swapped over to a BP auto harness. Did the segment swap. does not work. 2nd gear limp mode, same as before. over a month waiting to hit the dyno. not sure what to do.
the shop I am using is going to make some phone calls tomorrow. I wish i could go back in time and ask for FMVB an avoid all this.
You can easily convert to a FMVB with our manual box. We've sent these out on occasion to help customer's diagnose issues. Too frequently we see installation or tuning issues that we can isolate by using a manual control box. If the transmission works using the MCB, it verifies everything is good with the trans.
If it's still in 2nd limp mode with the MCB, it's caused by a lack of 12V power to the manual control box. Which could also be the cause of limp mode when using a factory PCM/harness.
There are some basic checks and tests that anybody with a voltmeter should be able to do.
hate to hear your selling the car chris. susprised the manual controller box didnt resolve the issue.
we swapped over to a BP auto harness. Did the segment swap. does not work. 2nd gear limp mode, same as before. over a month waiting to hit the dyno. not sure what to do.
the shop I am using is going to make some phone calls tomorrow. I wish i could go back in time and ask for FMVB an avoid all this.
I'm just out of energy and money and needed a car, so it's ok I'll probably build up my new car slowly.. Nothing radical like this though..
You have me curious,
1-2 seconds to engage 1st when?
On a 2-1 downshift? Or just to engage any forward gear?
Pretty unusual if it's to any forward gear. I would suggest checking the dipstick and confirming fluid level. A 12V problem could cause issue with the manual control box. We see that occasionally, but typically you only have reverse or 2nd when that is the case.
1-2 seconds to engage 1st when?
On a 2-1 downshift? Or just to engage any forward gear?
Pretty unusual if it's to any forward gear. I would suggest checking the dipstick and confirming fluid level. A 12V problem could cause issue with the manual control box. We see that occasionally, but typically you only have reverse or 2nd when that is the case.
You have me curious,
1-2 seconds to engage 1st when?
On a 2-1 downshift? Or just to engage any forward gear?
Pretty unusual if it's to any forward gear. I would suggest checking the dipstick and confirming fluid level. A 12V problem could cause issue with the manual control box. We see that occasionally, but typically you only have reverse or 2nd when that is the case.
1-2 seconds to engage 1st when?
On a 2-1 downshift? Or just to engage any forward gear?
Pretty unusual if it's to any forward gear. I would suggest checking the dipstick and confirming fluid level. A 12V problem could cause issue with the manual control box. We see that occasionally, but typically you only have reverse or 2nd when that is the case.
Shifting from? Park, or while moving oin 2nd and downshifting to 1st?
1 second delay on a "garage shift" wouldn't be terribly abnormal, lots of fluid moving to apply forwards, low band, over-runs. A pressure gauge is helpful because it shows the pressure drop and recovery.
1 second delay on a "garage shift" wouldn't be terribly abnormal, lots of fluid moving to apply forwards, low band, over-runs. A pressure gauge is helpful because it shows the pressure drop and recovery.
I agree with what was posted above. We use standalone controllers but not usually in a vehicle where we can use the existing PCM.
The controller pictured has a VERY simple and not very tuneable pressure control logic that I would avoid.
We have a customer using one and we've found the pressure control to be lacking.
With the D3 transbrake, reverse is a dedicated circuit (same circuit as the transbrake) that isn't tied to PCM control at all. A stock 4L80E also works similarly, you will have reverse with nothing plugged in.
It sounds to me as if something is mis-wired, activating the transbrake/reverse when it shouldn't be, or not activating it properly, like it's setting off a circuit breaker shortly after engagement.
If 3rd gear works, and you have engine braking in manual 1st gear on decel, everything internally is working for reverse
If it locks up when engaging the reverse, it would point to a burnt forward clutch which we've seen when one has been low on fluid or not enough pressure in the tune causes low fluid pressure. Once it's welded together, you will not have reverse.
You may try tuning it to maximum pressure to eliminate variables until you get it sorted out.
Also,
If memory serves, this is a unit we shipped some time ago. I would confirm the pinout of the D3 brake wiring, we have made some changes to that since we introduced it.
Also, what environment was the trans in while awaiting install?
It sounds to me as if something is mis-wired, activating the transbrake/reverse when it shouldn't be, or not activating it properly, like it's setting off a circuit breaker shortly after engagement.
If 3rd gear works, and you have engine braking in manual 1st gear on decel, everything internally is working for reverse
If it locks up when engaging the reverse, it would point to a burnt forward clutch which we've seen when one has been low on fluid or not enough pressure in the tune causes low fluid pressure. Once it's welded together, you will not have reverse.
You may try tuning it to maximum pressure to eliminate variables until you get it sorted out.
Also,
If memory serves, this is a unit we shipped some time ago. I would confirm the pinout of the D3 brake wiring, we have made some changes to that since we introduced it.
Also, what environment was the trans in while awaiting install?
The trans was wrapped in the same seran wrap it came in. it was inside my room, then inside a closed shop on a trans jack. then into the car. We filled it up with ATI full synthetic type F fluid and filled the converter before hand. Pressure has been bumped as suggested. Still not change. However after talking with another stage 5 owner who has similar issues we think we may have found the issue.
This sensor is not on the trans....
I am told this will be needed for the 80e bin file to read properly. so hopefully we get this in the next few days and plug in the miscellaneous connector and she shifts. Chris has been chatting with me Jake and I appreciate him and you both trying to help me.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; Apr 13, 2014 at 12:46 PM.
yeah i read where you said that on HPtuners forums, which was a clue, but a large majority of people will be using the segment swap. it may be the tougher route compared to the "slow67" mod which i know you helped devise, but this is the way some people go. either way is pretty simple as long as the sensors are there. i appreciate every ones help.
well it's been almost 2 months now dealing with this. put the sensor on and it still would not shift. Chris has been talking with RPP going over more troubleshooting steps.
Possibilities.
-Lack of voltage to pin (12volts)
-Loose Pin in harness (jakes makes new ones for each trans)
Possibilities.
-Lack of voltage to pin (12volts)
-Loose Pin in harness (jakes makes new ones for each trans)