I had a m-6 and now have my first a4 f-body. Thing is, it has a yank 3200 stall. I am not sure how it is SUPPOSED to feel/act to know if everything is ok. The shifts seem kinda soft at half throttle. i still have stock programmimg in. it is a 2000 WS6. I am still breaking stuff in so no WOT shifts yet. I did delete TM but haven't changed anything else. The tranny is supposed to be midly built. Anyway, it seems to take off like normal with no slipping sensation from the stall. Problem is, I don't really know what is normal behavior as this is my first stall and I haven't had an auto in years. 3.23 gears btw. Any info as to what to expect would be appreciated so I can diagnose that everything is working properly and shifting properly. i have ls1edit if adjustments need to be made

 

Was the trans touched up be your local trans shop with some harder parts? Did they include trans **** kit with the mild buildup?

When you pulled the TM did you also change any of your shift points? Have you played with the Torque Converter lockup setting at all for WOT?

If/When you change your shift points, you'll want to remeber that there are two areas that need to be addressed for consitent shifts at part and WOT.

You have entered the world of point and shoot. By default everything is working but can be improved upon for your driving tastes and racing plans. Hard shifts, while noticable, are not as important as quickshifts. Your hands are now free to adjust the strereo while making the 150+ runs.

Rick

 

 

With a shift kit and 3200 stall the car should barely feel anything going into gear from ppark. After that while idling in gear with your foot off the gas/brake the car should sit still or barely creep forward. After that as you put mild throttle to it the car should move ahead but the engine sems to rev as if slipping the lutch on a stck shift. Cotinued part throttle in D the car should hit normal or reprogrammed rpm points and softly shift into the next gear. As Rick pointed out, the shift doesn't need nor should be hard, but quick. Watch the tach during upshifts. My car the needle drops only 2-3 hundred rpm between gears. Now as you get to about 40 mph the converter will want to lock up until you program it extended. I left my TM installed and left my lock up as is and just changed shift point extension. Why? At WOT the car shifts at about 6500 and I'll not see lock up until I put the car in 4 and let off the gas. Race is over in 3 at 6600 for me. Anyway - a different drive will be from idle in gear you mash the gas. Car should tach up to about 4000 and be frying tires. Shifting will be quick and still only dropping a few hundred rpm. When you let off the gas at say 70 mph, the car ill free wheel as if coasting with a loose converter - this is normal. The tach will drop also when off the gas at speeds. With a tighter converter this won't be as extreme but will still feel lke coasting. As you give some gas, the tach picks up and pulls along again. At cruising speed around 45 mph if you mash the gas, should put the tach to about 4000 again, downshift a gear and pull like crazy up the rpms and through the shift..
Enjoy!

 

only deleted Tm nothing else touched. The tranny has had at least: nine clutch pack-hd hub-transco shift kit--hd 2/4 band--5 gear hardened planetaries--vette servo--13 vain pump. The converter is actually a truck thruster 3000 stall with a 2.21 str....98% effieciency. Mike at yank said it should stall to 3200 in a car. It seems to shift from park to drive with normal firmness. I haven't really noticed it seeming to "stall up" on takeoff. I will check more tomorrow. This is on a rebuilt car that was totalled so I can only drive it in the neighborhood until it is inspected. I bought the tranny/converter for 1100.00 I hope it will compliment my 3.23 gears fine. I expect the incons to dump the tranny after a bit but we'll see.

 

I own a 2001 Z28 with a Y3000, 2.0 STR, coupled to 3.73's (car has been dyno tuned), basically stock engine (lid, catback).

From a dead stop (normal driving) if I take my foot off the brake, the vehicle will creep forward, upon giving it gas (normal driving) the RPM's will climb to 2K to 2.2K as the vehicle gains speed. At WOT the car takes off and RPM climb to 4800 to 5400 RPM, and I come out of the shift (shift extension) between 4200 to 4600 RPM, 3rd gear 3800 RPM going into OD.

If I am driving in the city @ 20MPH, and give it gas (normal) the RPM will slip to about 2k before I can really feel the car accelerating.

Hope this helps you out in some way.

SteveC

 

thanks SteveC...sounds like what I have observed so far. Just want to know what to expect when driving on a used transmission AND stall.

 

thats a perfect way of describing it! reading that makes me wanna drive my car

 

and makes me want to get a stall converter real soon !!

 

Too bad - I just sold my Vig3200 because I had a Midwest 4000 installed and now putting in a PT4400 nstead
Get a converter before your next tank of gas
If the factory used 2800 converters twice as many A4 cars would have been sold !

 

before my next tank of gas, hmmm lets see, i have a little more than half a tank, so have about 100 miles left, maybe i will do that

 

hmm that may be true, but then that would probably make us pay a gas guzzler tax, not something that i would want to do, just like the M6's needed skip shift for gas mileage purposes.....

 

Actually with my LT1 car fuel economy improved with a stall and with my LS1 both stalls so far the mpg remains the same
All the more reason to make a stall your first mod to an A4 car

 

do you do all highway driving or city as well ???

 

both about evenly but keeping it in 3rd with the tach around 3-3500 makes for better mpg around back streets

 

So you got the same mpg after the Vig while driving at 3000-3500 rpm on backstreets with 50/50 street/highway?? Little strange I think.......

 

it is what it is ... not always at 3500 - but when I ran tank of gas leaving the car in 4rth it got abot 18. A few tanks driving more aggressively and still some highway in 4rh got 20 again. I think it's the easy coasting and less strain on the motor at low speeds.
I drove my 474 inch Pontiac with a 1150 Dominator the same way watching my vacuum gage. Lugging it below the power range while vacuum was low mpg sucked. Keep it tached evenly while cruising with higher vacuum increased mpg. It's just an air pump and wants to push air to be efficient
Werd.