What flexplate and torque converter do I need?
03-15-2014, 10:27 PM
#1
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What flexplate and torque converter do I need? My engine is an LS1 5.7 from a 1998 Camaro and my transmission is a 4l80e from a 1999 C2500 truck. I don't currently have a flexplate, but I assume either a flexplate from the Camaro or the truck will work as long as I get the torque converter from the same application?
AutoZone shows a Pioneer flexplate for $35, which I'm fine with, but the 98 Camaro and 99 truck are different part numbers. Any problems with using either or? Would either or be cheaper when ordering the converter?
I was quoted $300 for a torque converter from a local supplier because it was a "special high stall". I figured roughly 2200-2500 would probably work. $300 seems a bit high, so what are your thoughts? Right now the engine is bone stock, but hopefully soon it'll have LS6 intake/heads and a mail order tune to make it all work. This is a budget build, so what route is the best?
AutoZone shows a Pioneer flexplate for $35, which I'm fine with, but the 98 Camaro and 99 truck are different part numbers. Any problems with using either or? Would either or be cheaper when ordering the converter?
I was quoted $300 for a torque converter from a local supplier because it was a "special high stall". I figured roughly 2200-2500 would probably work. $300 seems a bit high, so what are your thoughts? Right now the engine is bone stock, but hopefully soon it'll have LS6 intake/heads and a mail order tune to make it all work. This is a budget build, so what route is the best?
03-16-2014, 07:03 PM
#2
You have a few options here. You can run a "flat" 4l80 6 pad flexplate and a stock 4l80 310 mm converter without issue. Be sure not to buy a flexplate from a 99 or 00 truck because they don't have the spacer. They have a long crank flange and your ls1 has a short crank flange like the 01+ 6.0 trucks. This converter will be very tight and you will most likely want more stall.
The second more high performance option would be to run a dished ls 3 pad flexplate and a custom converter. We sell a 278mm 3000 stall converter for this application that many use with good results. It is $500. If you go this route, stay away from factory f-body flexplates because they tend to crack. The 4l60 truck unit seems to be stronger. We also offer an sfi certified version for $150.
I would be careful when piecing these things together on a "budget". These parts are not particularly fun or cheap to change when they fail or are not up to your performance expectations. Hope I steered you in the right direction however.
-Brian
The second more high performance option would be to run a dished ls 3 pad flexplate and a custom converter. We sell a 278mm 3000 stall converter for this application that many use with good results. It is $500. If you go this route, stay away from factory f-body flexplates because they tend to crack. The 4l60 truck unit seems to be stronger. We also offer an sfi certified version for $150.
I would be careful when piecing these things together on a "budget". These parts are not particularly fun or cheap to change when they fail or are not up to your performance expectations. Hope I steered you in the right direction however.
-Brian
Last edited by Circle-D_Brian; 03-16-2014 at 08:38 PM.
03-16-2014, 08:32 PM
#3
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I'm glad that Circle-D answered your question because I wasn't sure what year trucks had the long versus short crank.
Buying a $35 flexplate sounds risky to me.
I would also stay away from any $300 converter; there are dozens of horror stories on this forum concerning cheap converters. If a converter fails, the resulting metal shavings will also ruin the transmission, clog the trans cooler(s) and cause all kinds of havoc. Quality ones start more in the $500 range. I have NEVER read even the most cost conscious person saying that a $500+ converter wasn't worth it; it ALWAYS is worth it in both reliability and performance.
Buying a $35 flexplate sounds risky to me.
I would also stay away from any $300 converter; there are dozens of horror stories on this forum concerning cheap converters. If a converter fails, the resulting metal shavings will also ruin the transmission, clog the trans cooler(s) and cause all kinds of havoc. Quality ones start more in the $500 range. I have NEVER read even the most cost conscious person saying that a $500+ converter wasn't worth it; it ALWAYS is worth it in both reliability and performance.
03-18-2014, 09:26 AM
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This is great info, you mention that the 4l60e truck unit seems to be a bit stronger, can you please give more information on that? Do you mean the stock flexplate, if so, from what years?
The torque converter I mentioned above is a Recon brand. Our trans builder has given us Recon torque converters for years and I've never had a problem with them in the past. I'm a mechanic so the $300 was my cost using the shops account from Transtar (if that helps).
The torque converter I mentioned above is a Recon brand. Our trans builder has given us Recon torque converters for years and I've never had a problem with them in the past. I'm a mechanic so the $300 was my cost using the shops account from Transtar (if that helps).
