4l60e 3rd and 4th gear problem
not a big deal on the socket (you were not the only one who said T55, I looked at a few other posts that had said the same thing). I need to head to town tomorrow after work anyhow and I have bought a good amount of tools from the mac dealer when I worked at the salvage yard and now I currently work with his son, he will be happy to swap out the bit for me. I'll get the right one here tomorrow and get those babies out of there! I've got a very nice impact so they shouldn't be too much of a problem...hopefully lol.
That's good news to hear about the reverse checkball being gone not affecting anything! You have been very helpful so far and I appreciate all of the advice!
That's good news to hear about the reverse checkball being gone not affecting anything! You have been very helpful so far and I appreciate all of the advice!
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 213
Likes: 3
From: Manitowoc wi.
84lsvette, Just because the 3rd checkball is in place in the servo area does not mean that it is sealing correctly. If it were mine I would replace it with a new one as long as it is apart. Can be had for just a couple of bucks at any gm dealer or trans shop.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Good advice. It is part # 8634400.
Figured I'd post with a little progress...Things are going fine for what I have rebuilt so far which is all of the drums and clutches and piston seals etc.
I have the pump apart and everything seems to be in pretty good shape to me....
I think i found why the 3-4 clutches burned up....... 3-4 accumulator check ball capsule missing?? Don't know if someone removed it...this trans has been taken apart before since it was missing the reverse check ball and the 3-4 clutch assist/helper springs also
No ball to be seen anywhere.....just some plug or something up at the top of the hole.... dunno if thats supposed to be like that or not.
Picture of the toasted 3-4 clutch assembly....frictions are missing friction material and warped they are so bad
Ohh and a handy trick for anyone that has some spare stuff laying around and a drill press to get the reverse input spring/piston out of the drum..just a 4" clamp with sleeve and a 12mm wrench.....then I just lowered the press and held it in place with a strap....raised the lower platform up and boom homemade press that worked great and saved on buying another tool!
I have the pump apart and everything seems to be in pretty good shape to me....
I think i found why the 3-4 clutches burned up....... 3-4 accumulator check ball capsule missing?? Don't know if someone removed it...this trans has been taken apart before since it was missing the reverse check ball and the 3-4 clutch assist/helper springs also
No ball to be seen anywhere.....just some plug or something up at the top of the hole.... dunno if thats supposed to be like that or not.
Picture of the toasted 3-4 clutch assembly....frictions are missing friction material and warped they are so bad
Ohh and a handy trick for anyone that has some spare stuff laying around and a drill press to get the reverse input spring/piston out of the drum..just a 4" clamp with sleeve and a 12mm wrench.....then I just lowered the press and held it in place with a strap....raised the lower platform up and boom homemade press that worked great and saved on buying another tool!
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have heard of people replacing the 3rd accumulator capsule with some kind of plug/orifice, but that sounds like a hack to me. I'm sure that installing a new capsule is the correct fix.
BTW - Love your reverse drum spring compressor.
BTW - Love your reverse drum spring compressor.
In my 3rd picture which is kind of hard to see. but where that 3-4 check ball is supposed to go....is there supposed to be a cap or plug up above? this would be on the top side of the gap where the oil holes would be in the capsule (reference picture 2 , where the gap is, is there supposed to be a plug up top and fluid only flows down toward the valve body?). If so then nodody plugged anything...it's just gone
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The capsule is open into the fluid passages of the case and can be pulled out and inserted from there. If you use the Sonnax servo release check valve (some builders like it, but many do not), it fits into the passage right under the capsule.
Ok so I will need to punch that cup plug out from the top inside the case then....I am guessing someone must have read that mod of blocking it off being a good idea....Think this could be the cause that ruined the 3-4 clutches by blocking it? possible the plug isn't seated perfect and leaking itself.
I read up and see how the check ball uses some fluid to release the Band so I am guessing that the check ball assembly being blocked off is probably why the band was completely toasted and ruined the reverse input drum.
I read up and see how the check ball uses some fluid to release the Band so I am guessing that the check ball assembly being blocked off is probably why the band was completely toasted and ruined the reverse input drum.
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Verdad Gallardo may be a silly question.....but the 3-4 accumulator check ball capsule assembly goes with the rounded part up towards the center of the case and the squared flat end faces the valve body right? I got that little cup plug out of there and ready to install...I am installing and resizing the seals at the same time....then i should be able to air check it. put the pump back together and do final assembly tomorrow!
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
may be a silly question.....but the 3-4 accumulator check ball capsule assembly goes with the rounded part up towards the center of the case and the squared flat end faces the valve body right? I got that little cup plug out of there and ready to install...I am installing and resizing the seals at the same time....then i should be able to air check it. put the pump back together and do final assembly tomorrow!
Sounds like you are well on your way. I think you have my phone number, call me if you have any questions or hit any snags.
thank you very much! got it installed and went nice and smooth! got all 4 teflon seals seated and resized....cutting up a water bottle and using that to slide them on and then the hose clamp around it to resize them worked awesome! pump slides down on them very nicely and spins freely and smooth! got my pump back together with the new LB1 boost valve. So I will air check the 3-4 clutches tomorrow and do my final assembly and put it back in my car this weekend! I wish I had my phone to take more and better pics of the build to share.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The hose clamp "resizer" is fine; a common mistake is to overtighten the clamps. Just snug is enough. If you overtighten it may take a few days for the teflon rings to expand and seal correctly.
Sounds like you are doing great and even enjoying it.
Remember to check the end play before the final assembly; for this remember the paper gasket for the pump and torque the bolts down.
Its not critical (.015 to .030) but be sure there is some. To simplify the process, you don't need the 3/4 clutch or the reverse drum installed when setting the end play.
The final assembly of the complete input drum (with reverse drum attached) into the trans can be a bitch, trying to get the 3/4 clutch frictions to mesh at the same time as the reverse drum and sun shell. Sometimes it all goes together in just a minute or two; other times my strength wears out and I have to take a break and try again.
Sounds like you are doing great and even enjoying it.
Remember to check the end play before the final assembly; for this remember the paper gasket for the pump and torque the bolts down.
Its not critical (.015 to .030) but be sure there is some. To simplify the process, you don't need the 3/4 clutch or the reverse drum installed when setting the end play.
The final assembly of the complete input drum (with reverse drum attached) into the trans can be a bitch, trying to get the 3/4 clutch frictions to mesh at the same time as the reverse drum and sun shell. Sometimes it all goes together in just a minute or two; other times my strength wears out and I have to take a break and try again.
Last edited by mrvedit; May 8, 2014 at 10:37 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Here is a video.... as you can see 3rd is pretty much useless....Takes a decent amount of throttle to just get it going.....4th starts out alright but then just seems to give up and then the car free revs and pings the rev limiter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgF-...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgF-...ature=youtu.be
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
This is very likely due to the wrong combo of those parts and their bearings.
Take out everything down to the sun gear (i.e. everything loose) and post clear a picture of those parts.
