Tranny options
Tranny options My 4l60e finally died. Lockup on the TCI converter started slipping a couple of months ago and it now has no 3rd gear. I've replaced all three shift solenoids and well anyway, it's toast. Looking for a replacement & would like some advice. I could either get a build 4l60e from FLT & a new converter, or do a 4l80e swap, or switch out the A4 for a M6. I'm leaning towards the last option, as I understand a T56 can handle a lot more abuse than an A4, but worried about being able to do the swap over a weekend on my daily driver. Thoughts?
It's a 2000 z28 with a stock long block & 10-bolt, Strano bars, SFC, Magnaflow, Koni shocks. The car's got 150K on it and looking to upgrade over the next few years: 12-bolt or 9in rear, forged internals, forced induction. No more drag racing or nitrous, just some high-spirited commuting. Would like having my options open, meaning I need a tranny that can handle any plans I come up with, up to 500-600hp, which I understand is right in the T56's neighborhood. I'm going to call FLT later & get their advice as well...
(off to work in my wife's minvan ugh...)
Thanks!
-Mark
It's a 2000 z28 with a stock long block & 10-bolt, Strano bars, SFC, Magnaflow, Koni shocks. The car's got 150K on it and looking to upgrade over the next few years: 12-bolt or 9in rear, forged internals, forced induction. No more drag racing or nitrous, just some high-spirited commuting. Would like having my options open, meaning I need a tranny that can handle any plans I come up with, up to 500-600hp, which I understand is right in the T56's neighborhood. I'm going to call FLT later & get their advice as well...
(off to work in my wife's minvan ugh...)
Thanks!
-Mark
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
It takes a lot of parts, clutch pedal related and otherwise, to switch to a manual trans. It is best done with a a donor car from which you can remove all the needed parts.
One weekend? No way unless you have done it several times already and have absolutely every part. I read that the cost with trans often comes in around $4000.
For $4000 you can get a very good trans from FLT. The replacement can be done in a weekend.
For $4000 you can also swap to a 4L80E, this will include a junk yard trans, a rebuild, conversion harness, crossmember and converter. Lots of detailed threads here on the subject. I doubt it can be done in a weekend.
If your car is undriveable I don't understand why you have to complete it in one weekend. With backlogs, shipping time, etc. it takes weeks to get any trans.
One weekend? No way unless you have done it several times already and have absolutely every part. I read that the cost with trans often comes in around $4000.
For $4000 you can get a very good trans from FLT. The replacement can be done in a weekend.
For $4000 you can also swap to a 4L80E, this will include a junk yard trans, a rebuild, conversion harness, crossmember and converter. Lots of detailed threads here on the subject. I doubt it can be done in a weekend.
If your car is undriveable I don't understand why you have to complete it in one weekend. With backlogs, shipping time, etc. it takes weeks to get any trans.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Yes, FLT is Finish Line Transmission just outside Chicago. Each trans is built to order, so ask what the backlog is. As you approach 600HP I would suggest the Sonnax Smart Tech input drum and a billet output shaft. IIRC, FLT makes those optional on their medium level trans and standard on their top level trans.
I have been driving an FLT level 4 transmission with a 3400 yank converter for around a month now. It has been great! Shifts are great, tranny runs cool with tranny cooler of course. I have not taken it to the track yet.
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I decided on a stage 5 from Jeremy at RPM transmissions. Gotta say, he really knows his transmissions. Can't wait to see how it drives, especially with the 3600 stall Vigilante 
I'll need to get a good tranny cooler. Jeremy says a standalone unit, bypassing the radiator, is best; apparently, ideal tranny temp is down in the 150-160degF range, so running it through the radiator is actually pre-heating it. Who sells a decent one? I used to have a B&M but the hoses leaked and the fluid never got over 200 anyway, even at the track, so I got rid of it.
I'll need to get a good tranny cooler. Jeremy says a standalone unit, bypassing the radiator, is best; apparently, ideal tranny temp is down in the 150-160degF range, so running it through the radiator is actually pre-heating it. Who sells a decent one? I used to have a B&M but the hoses leaked and the fluid never got over 200 anyway, even at the track, so I got rid of it. LS1 Tech Stories
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