4L60e valve body ?
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Suffolk, Va
4L60e valve body ? I posted this on performance trucks but I'm trying to get an answer ASAP so I can finally start driving my truck. I recently purchased the sk4l60e transgo kit to fix my p1870 code on my 00 Silverado 1500. After removing the valve body I couldn't get the PWM valve (or whatever it's called) out to swap the valve per the instructions. The directions say to just tap around the valve with a hammer and screwdriver on the valve body casting and I guess it's supposed to just pop out (after removing the clip on the cap of course). The valve acts like it is stuck and for the life of me I could not get it to come out even with trying pics to work it out. Anyway I ordered a used valve body off of ebay that was listed as a "96-01" valve body in the hopes that the valve isn't stuck in it. I got it today and the valve does move easier but I noticed a difference in the valve body in comparison to my old one. One of the check ball locations is cast differently. I contacted the seller to see if they knew exactly what vehicle it came out of. The ad did list my truck as being applicable to. I'm attaching two pics to show the difference. Does anyone know if this will affect anything or will it be ok? Any help would be appreciated.
If you can see the horseshoe looking pocket for my original faces down and is flush whereas the one I just got is rotated 90 degrees and is countersunk below the face.
If you can see the horseshoe looking pocket for my original faces down and is flush whereas the one I just got is rotated 90 degrees and is countersunk below the face.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I just checked all my spare VBs and they are all like the top picture. I don't see why GM would make such a change.
Compare the areas around the TCC PWM and 3-2 downshift valves as these areas are different in '94 and '95 and you want to be sure you don't have one of those. Other than those early years, any '96 through '06 VB should work just fine.
Compare the areas around the TCC PWM and 3-2 downshift valves as these areas are different in '94 and '95 and you want to be sure you don't have one of those. Other than those early years, any '96 through '06 VB should work just fine.
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From: Suffolk, Va
I don't see why they would change that either. I'll try and give it a good look but I've never dealt with auto transmissions aside from a filter/fluid change. I've always had manual transmissions.
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From: Suffolk, Va
You're right, I did misread the instructions. They say to smack the casing with a screwdriver and 3/4 wrench (why not a hammer I don't know) if the new valve feels like it's sticking in the bore. With a scribe I couldn't get the valve to come all of the way out. It gets stuck when the plug is about 1/8" from the end.
I did find a site that says there is a year stamped on the valve body and the one I got off ebay has "97" stamped on it. I can't get the plug out of my original valve body for the life of me, I did get it out of the ebay one but I still don't know if it'll work due to the issue in my initial post.
I did find a site that says there is a year stamped on the valve body and the one I got off ebay has "97" stamped on it. I can't get the plug out of my original valve body for the life of me, I did get it out of the ebay one but I still don't know if it'll work due to the issue in my initial post.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: N. Alabama
Valve body should work unly reason to do the screw driver and 3/4 wrench routine I would think is to get that bore back to round idk for sure I lucked up and was able to push mine out threw the gaps with a scribe
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From: Suffolk, Va
So I've decided to use the ebay one since it's a 97 but when I remove the tcc isolator valve what is there is different than the instructions show should be.
This is the correct bore right (second from left)?
And this is what came out. Notice instructions show the three different types, which mine doesn't quite resemble any of.
The thing is the instructions say it should just be a plug on the end and not the sleeve that I have with the holes in it. This is what was stuck on my original valve body. So why do I have this sleeve instead of just a plug like the directions show? Should I use the sleeve or pull a plug from one of the other bores on my original valve body and use it? Thanks to all who have posted.
This is the correct bore right (second from left)?
And this is what came out. Notice instructions show the three different types, which mine doesn't quite resemble any of.
The thing is the instructions say it should just be a plug on the end and not the sleeve that I have with the holes in it. This is what was stuck on my original valve body. So why do I have this sleeve instead of just a plug like the directions show? Should I use the sleeve or pull a plug from one of the other bores on my original valve body and use it? Thanks to all who have posted.
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The valve you removed is made by Sonnax and it is still a pwm setup. The TransGo valve "will not" work as the Sonnax setup has the bore reamed out for their new valve. If you want to keep from getting another valve body, so you can use the TransGo valve and spring, then re-install the Sonnax setup, and then follow the directions from TransGo for the rest of the modifications to the valve body.
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From: Suffolk, Va
I ended up ordering another valve body from ken partin transmissions and I'm sending the ebay one back. I did look up that valve on sonnax's site and it does worry me that the valve was a fix for the P1870 code yet I still had the code come up.
Last edited by jmix; Aug 2, 2014 at 06:09 AM. Reason: Added to response