fresh trans pulling hard at idle 4l65e
so the valvebody and everything within it LOOK good.
the tcc on the otherhand was frozen up. couldn't push any air through it or anything. builder left it partially unbolted so fluid could flow through and the car is better in gear but still loading up too much in R and D3 D4. going to pick up a new tcc with harness and a valve body and toss it all in there and see what comes of it. pressure is still 150 or so in D and 180 in R
reman'd vb on the way and a new tcc with harness. im sick of chasing the issue n just bought both.
what are the odds that this ate up my new converter?
the tcc on the otherhand was frozen up. couldn't push any air through it or anything. builder left it partially unbolted so fluid could flow through and the car is better in gear but still loading up too much in R and D3 D4. going to pick up a new tcc with harness and a valve body and toss it all in there and see what comes of it. pressure is still 150 or so in D and 180 in R
reman'd vb on the way and a new tcc with harness. im sick of chasing the issue n just bought both.
what are the odds that this ate up my new converter?
Last edited by kurazy kracka; Sep 25, 2014 at 03:16 PM.
I think the new VB and harness are a good idea and excellent chance this will fix the problem.
If your converter is now NOT dragging the engine and killing it when you are stopped, I think your converter will be just fine.
If your converter is now NOT dragging the engine and killing it when you are stopped, I think your converter will be just fine.
Since you have the same symptom in "any drive gear (reverse also)", your problem is completely different.
Your TCC is locked up, most likely due to a defective converter. It cannot be an electrical or tune problem because the hydraulic paths cannot lock the TCC in [D1] and [R] (not sure about [D2]).
I ruined my TCC due to one of my hydraulic mod experiments and then had the exact symptoms you mentioned. Yank was kind enough to rebuild my converter for a minimal charge.
Your TCC is locked up, most likely due to a defective converter. It cannot be an electrical or tune problem because the hydraulic paths cannot lock the TCC in [D1] and [R] (not sure about [D2]).
I ruined my TCC due to one of my hydraulic mod experiments and then had the exact symptoms you mentioned. Yank was kind enough to rebuild my converter for a minimal charge.
now we are really at a loss
Wow. I am also at a loss. I'm sorry if my advice caused you to waste time and money.
And Dana is at a loss too?
I will carefully read the thread again tonight to see something was missed or misunderstood.
And Dana is at a loss too?
I will carefully read the thread again tonight to see something was missed or misunderstood.
Using the GM Tech 2 scanner, the OP confirmed that the PCS current stayed around .8 amps which should give low line pressure (e.g. 90psi).
In more detail, he said that when shifted into D3 or OD, the pressure would start at 90 psi, but after a second or two suddenly spike to 150+ at which point the engine would bog down too.
That two second delay is an additional puzzler.
Since I don't know if the .8 amps from the scanner is the actual current or just the commanded current, and so much else has been checked and/or replaced, that I would try swapping out the TCM.
Last edited by mrvedit; Oct 2, 2014 at 10:07 AM.
I’m sure you have thought of this already, just brain storming here. The last thing I want to do is muddy water here.
Is this why the trans was rebuilt in the first place? If this wasn’t the problem in the first place I am hesitation to think the TCM is defective, it almost has to be in the trans. Maybe the pressure switch assembly. If one for those o rings on the pressure switch assembly is leaking couldn’t or even missing that send false info to the TCM. This could cause the line pressure to go high or TCM to think it is in a different gear than what it really is. It is so easy to dislodge those o rings when cleaning.
Is this why the trans was rebuilt in the first place? If this wasn’t the problem in the first place I am hesitation to think the TCM is defective, it almost has to be in the trans. Maybe the pressure switch assembly. If one for those o rings on the pressure switch assembly is leaking couldn’t or even missing that send false info to the TCM. This could cause the line pressure to go high or TCM to think it is in a different gear than what it really is. It is so easy to dislodge those o rings when cleaning.
bbond105, you sure know your stuff and are thinking hard about this strange case.
Excellent point about the TCM - was it working before the rebuild?
I was also going to ask if the Pressure Switch Manifold was replaced along with the new VB. Some of the strangest trans problems reported here turned out to be due to a bad one.
Glad you are trying to help too! Definitely not muddying the waters.
Excellent point about the TCM - was it working before the rebuild?
I was also going to ask if the Pressure Switch Manifold was replaced along with the new VB. Some of the strangest trans problems reported here turned out to be due to a bad one.
Glad you are trying to help too! Definitely not muddying the waters.
Put a pressure gauge on it and see if the overall line pressure fluctuates when it acts up compared to when it doesn't.
Unplug the main connector completely and see if the results are the same.
I have a couple of other things in mind but check those tests first and report back.
Unplug the main connector completely and see if the results are the same.
I have a couple of other things in mind but check those tests first and report back.
Rebuild was originally done due to old converter blowing so very unlikely that it's the tcm since it functioned fine prior.
Already tested pulling the connector to the trans and it did the same thing but pressure went up. In 1 and 2 it'll hold the pressure around 70-75. Trans-go suggested it could be a pump issue with either a leaking passage or wrong stator support possibly
New pressure switch went in with new vb
Already tested pulling the connector to the trans and it did the same thing but pressure went up. In 1 and 2 it'll hold the pressure around 70-75. Trans-go suggested it could be a pump issue with either a leaking passage or wrong stator support possibly
New pressure switch went in with new vb
Last edited by kurazy kracka; Oct 2, 2014 at 07:07 PM.
I talked for 30 min yesterday to the OP's trans builder and, as I remember the conversation, when the connector was unplugged the pressure was 200+ in all forward gears and 250+ in reverse.
I agree that a bad TCM is unlikely.
Something related to the pump or stator shaft is looking more likely. It would not be the first time someone installed the wrong stator shaft or damaged the pump in the process.
Thanks for helping Jake!
I agree that a bad TCM is unlikely.
Something related to the pump or stator shaft is looking more likely. It would not be the first time someone installed the wrong stator shaft or damaged the pump in the process.
Thanks for helping Jake!
I talked for 30 min yesterday to the OP's trans builder and, as I remember the conversation, when the connector was unplugged the pressure was 200+ in all forward gears and 250+ in reverse.
I agree that a bad TCM is unlikely.
Something related to the pump or stator shaft is looking more likely. It would not be the first time someone installed the wrong stator shaft or damaged the pump in the process.
Thanks for helping Jake!
I agree that a bad TCM is unlikely.
Something related to the pump or stator shaft is looking more likely. It would not be the first time someone installed the wrong stator shaft or damaged the pump in the process.
Thanks for helping Jake!
I think that's the next step is looki at stator support then pump. He's pretty determined to find the issue over the weekend.
Last edited by kurazy kracka; Oct 2, 2014 at 10:00 PM.
FIXED!!!!!! I WAS PROVIDED THE WRONG STATOR SUPPORT FROM THE SUPPLIER WHO SOLD ME THE KIT.......along with the wrong trans filter.
Cars been down for a while now due to being supplied wrong parts and a wasted trip to the tuner.
Cars been down for a while now due to being supplied wrong parts and a wasted trip to the tuner.
After your post #35 I had to a chance to discuss this with a local builder. I knew that '05 was a transitional year with older style pumps without ISS and newer style pumps with ISS. However my local builder said he has also seen newer style pumps without ISS - the ISS hole was simply plugged.
The newer style pump has a square cutout near the boost valve and they take a different stator shaft than the older pumps.
Jake: The "supplier" was Dana. I think it was just an honest mistake due to the pump variations in '05. But yeah, it is the builder's responsibility to double check that the supplied parts are compatible. There are subtle but visible differences between the older and newer style stator shaft.
Anyway, glad you got it fixed and working! Even I spent a lot of time and research pondering this strange problem.
The newer style pump has a square cutout near the boost valve and they take a different stator shaft than the older pumps.
Jake: The "supplier" was Dana. I think it was just an honest mistake due to the pump variations in '05. But yeah, it is the builder's responsibility to double check that the supplied parts are compatible. There are subtle but visible differences between the older and newer style stator shaft.
Anyway, glad you got it fixed and working! Even I spent a lot of time and research pondering this strange problem.
After your post #35 I had to a chance to discuss this with a local builder. I knew that '05 was a transitional year with older style pumps without ISS and newer style pumps with ISS. However my local builder said he has also seen newer style pumps without ISS - the ISS hole was simply plugged.
The newer style pump has a square cutout near the boost valve and they take a different stator shaft than the older pumps.
Jake: The "supplier" was Dana. I think it was just an honest mistake due to the pump variations in '05. But yeah, it is the builder's responsibility to double check that the supplied parts are compatible. There are subtle but visible differences between the older and newer style stator shaft.
Anyway, glad you got it fixed and working! Even I spent a lot of time and research pondering this strange problem.
The newer style pump has a square cutout near the boost valve and they take a different stator shaft than the older pumps.
Jake: The "supplier" was Dana. I think it was just an honest mistake due to the pump variations in '05. But yeah, it is the builder's responsibility to double check that the supplied parts are compatible. There are subtle but visible differences between the older and newer style stator shaft.
Anyway, glad you got it fixed and working! Even I spent a lot of time and research pondering this strange problem.
im just glad to have her driving again though. new MT's went on yesterday.








