New setup need advice on 4l60
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New setup need advice on 4l60
So I had a plan on doing a massive overhaul to my trans am. It was a one and done kinda deal. I wanted to make one final round of upgrades and just enjoy the car. With that said the parts total kept climbing and now I just can't swing a good 4l80.
Here's the question, what can I do to my 4l60 to buy me some time? The only mods on the trans are a 4600 yank, cooler, and tuning.
I have gone to a BTR stage 3 cam, the 4600 converter, and I have jets to spray up to a 200 wet shot from a TSP 224r, and 3600 yank. I've sprayed a 150 on the car a few times before. So the power increase from the cam and added abuse from the stall increase has me concerned. The extra nitrous is a just there if I "need" it. I do go to the dragstip a good bit and don't really beat on the car on the street.
Here's the question, what can I do to my 4l60 to buy me some time? The only mods on the trans are a 4600 yank, cooler, and tuning.
I have gone to a BTR stage 3 cam, the 4600 converter, and I have jets to spray up to a 200 wet shot from a TSP 224r, and 3600 yank. I've sprayed a 150 on the car a few times before. So the power increase from the cam and added abuse from the stall increase has me concerned. The extra nitrous is a just there if I "need" it. I do go to the dragstip a good bit and don't really beat on the car on the street.
#2
Moderator
Simplest step 1. Install the Sonnax 4L60-LB1 boost valve. It is a $30 part and you only have to drop the pan and filter to install it with a set of snap ring pliers. This will increase line pressure across the board and increase max line pressure to reduce slippage during shifts. Dropping the pan will give you an idea of how much crud is in the bottom and how much life is left in your clutches.
Step 2. Install a new Trasgo Universal separator plate (and gaskets) and drill first according to its instructions for V8 and then according to the HD2 shift kit instructions.
These two steps will give you 80% of the benefit of a shift kit.
Optional Step 2. Install the Transgo HD2 shift kit while you have the valve body off to replace the separator plate. Ignore the optional "internal" parts of the shift kit. The shift kit includes replacing parts in the servo too, which is difficult to remove
due to clearance problems when the trans is installed in most cars.
While this will "buy you some time", it probably will not withstand a 150+ shot for long.
Step 2. Install a new Trasgo Universal separator plate (and gaskets) and drill first according to its instructions for V8 and then according to the HD2 shift kit instructions.
These two steps will give you 80% of the benefit of a shift kit.
Optional Step 2. Install the Transgo HD2 shift kit while you have the valve body off to replace the separator plate. Ignore the optional "internal" parts of the shift kit. The shift kit includes replacing parts in the servo too, which is difficult to remove
due to clearance problems when the trans is installed in most cars.
While this will "buy you some time", it probably will not withstand a 150+ shot for long.
#3
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, thanks. The trans is out of the car right now though. In that case would it be beneficial to get into the servo?
And what about the sun shell? I've heard those are weak and the beast is cheap. It would just be the matter of install. I've never torn into a transmission before. I'd probably have to send it out for that.
And what about the sun shell? I've heard those are weak and the beast is cheap. It would just be the matter of install. I've never torn into a transmission before. I'd probably have to send it out for that.
Last edited by 1320Chicken; 10-03-2014 at 01:20 PM.
#4
TECH Addict
I prefer the Sonnax SmartShell. My trans would push the snap ring out of its grove where the sun shell would set on the sun gear. The SmartShell comes with a thrust bearing and thinner inner low roller race that places the load on the inner low roller race and not the sun gear and small thrust bearing in the planet carrier. A much better set up IMO.
#5
Moderator
As bbond105 mentions, the Sonnax SmartShell is the preferred part now.
Opening the trans is a slippery slope - the teflon seals might tear, etc, and before you know it you are doing a complete rebuild.
I would especially suggest updating the 3/4 clutch to 7 or 8 frictions as I have documented many times.
Consider the Transgo HD2 kit. The internal parts I would definitely use are the high rpm spring for the pump and the replacing the ball cartridge in the input drum with a simple supplied bleed. These provide more reliable operation at high rpm, e.g. over 6000.
The HD2 will also have different springs for the servo.
Opening the trans is a slippery slope - the teflon seals might tear, etc, and before you know it you are doing a complete rebuild.
I would especially suggest updating the 3/4 clutch to 7 or 8 frictions as I have documented many times.
Consider the Transgo HD2 kit. The internal parts I would definitely use are the high rpm spring for the pump and the replacing the ball cartridge in the input drum with a simple supplied bleed. These provide more reliable operation at high rpm, e.g. over 6000.
The HD2 will also have different springs for the servo.