I've got my rebuilt 4l60e back, I'm going to make absolutely sure to seat the converter right this time. My question is how much of a stall do I need on my converter? I've got a 07 silverado 5.3 with a .525 lifted cam and I can't remember the split duration. Will I be fine with a stock converter?

 

Stall is often a matter of preference, although certain combinations would by far prefer one stall vs another if that makes any sense.

More information would be needed.

Tire size?
Rear gear ratio?
Power level?
Full cam specs?
Any power adders?
Vehicle weight?

That's a basic rundown but can give a pretty good idea.

 

Tire size: 35x12.5x18
Rear gear: 373
Power level (I'm guessing rwhp): 440
Cam specs: I don't have the cam card on me, I work off. (.525 is the lift.)
No power adders other than heads, headers and intake.
Weight: not sure but it's definitely not light by no means. Crew cab LTZ, 6" lift, custom heavy duty bumpers, custom skid.

 

I would assume the duration @50 is not big with a lift of .525. So you might be ok with the stock converter. But would like to know more about the cam and intended usage, how much spirited driving vs just cruising? Any towing?

Chris

 

Well my spirited driving is what caused my tranny to go out in the first place so there won't be many lead footed moments...or so I say..but mainly cruising and no towing.

 

Also it is a split duration. I'm still learning as I go, mechanical wise, so I'm not sure if that helps you with the cam info.

 

That assumption is not always correct. For example the GM ASA cam has these specs:
Cam Lift: .525” Intake / .525” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 226 deg. Intake / 236 deg. Exhaust
Lobe Separation: 110 Degree

It has a whopping 11 degrees of overlap at .050 and therefore probably needs at least a 3000, if not 3600, stall.

 

Good point Ted, I should know better than to assume...

Chris

 

What Chris and I are saying is that we REALLY need to know all the cam specs.

 

Ok I've got my brother going after my cam card so while I wait my next question is if I have a vacuum pump do I still need a stall?

 

274 is the intake duration and 285 exhaust. Is that all you need?

 

274/285 is the "advertised" duration; more useful is the 0.050 duration. If you have the cam card handy, tell us the .050 duration and the LSA value.

I'm sure lots of people here will get a laugh out of that question, but none of us were born with the knowledge, we all have to learn it and you will someday laugh too.

A vacuum pump creates vacuum to operate the power brakes when you have an aggressive cam; it can also clear out crankcase pressure in extreme HP engines.
A "stall" is a torque converter with a higher than stock "stall speed" which determines how the engine couples to the transmission at different RPMs. It allows the engine to "shoot" immediately to a higher RPM while the drivetrain is still at a lower RPM. This helps avoid the low-rpm engine bog which an aggressive cam can cause. In other words, with an e.g. 3000 stall, the engine will never be below 3000 rpm under high throttle.

In short, YES, you still need a stall.

 

Haha I had a feeling that was a crazy question but I'm still picking up on things as I go, I'm definitely an amateur still, as you can tell lol but I work off and my brother isn't around the cam card anymore and I need to order this converter tomorrow, so based on the info (if I have provided enough) what kind of stall do you recommend?

 

The "advertised" overlap number indicates a moderately aggressive cam; from that I would recommend a 3000 stall from e.g. CircleD which has a good converter for $450 or so. I also just saw that sponsor Texas Speed is selling a new entry level Yank 3000 stall converter with an intro price of $400:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...converter.html

(I'm a bit partial to CircleD, but wanted to be honest about other options.)

If your budget allows $750, both CircleD and Yank have excellent converters.

 

Ok I've got the converter waiting on me. Last time I installed the tranny I had a check engine light, service stabilitrak, service traction control warning lights and my keyless start wouldn't work. Would disconnecting the batteries have something to do with that? If so do I need to reset anything? Or would I have one of the sensors mixed up?

 

When installing the converter you absolutely need to be sure it it fully seated or you will ruin both the transmission and the converter.
When you think the converter is fully seated, put a straight edge over the bell housing and measure the distance to the converter pads.
Ensure that the converter mounting pads are between 1" and 1-1/4" (ideally 1-1/8") from the edge of the bell housing.
Anything under 1" indicates the pump is NOT yet engaged.

Disconnecting the battery should not cause such problems. Lots of people do that just to erase various codes. You need to hook up a scanner to see what the code numbers are; we can then help you with those.

 

I got the converter in and fully seated. As I was putting it in, I noticed a few teeth on the flywheel had small chips on the edges. Will that affect or totally ruin something if 3-4 teeth is chipped?

 

As long as the 3-4 teeth are not together and none are completely missing, it should give little trouble. If a tooth is completely missing, the starter might not engage.
An aftermarket "stock" flexplate is only about $60.