Torque converter question
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Torque converter question I've got my rebuilt 4l60e back, I'm going to make absolutely sure to seat the converter right this time. My question is how much of a stall do I need on my converter? I've got a 07 silverado 5.3 with a .525 lifted cam and I can't remember the split duration. Will I be fine with a stock converter?
FormerVendor
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 263
Likes: 2
From: Justin, TX
Stall is often a matter of preference, although certain combinations would by far prefer one stall vs another if that makes any sense.
More information would be needed.
Tire size?
Rear gear ratio?
Power level?
Full cam specs?
Any power adders?
Vehicle weight?
That's a basic rundown but can give a pretty good idea.
More information would be needed.
Tire size?
Rear gear ratio?
Power level?
Full cam specs?
Any power adders?
Vehicle weight?
That's a basic rundown but can give a pretty good idea.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Tire size: 35x12.5x18
Rear gear: 373
Power level (I'm guessing rwhp): 440
Cam specs: I don't have the cam card on me, I work off. (.525 is the lift.)
No power adders other than heads, headers and intake.
Weight: not sure but it's definitely not light by no means. Crew cab LTZ, 6" lift, custom heavy duty bumpers, custom skid.
Rear gear: 373
Power level (I'm guessing rwhp): 440
Cam specs: I don't have the cam card on me, I work off. (.525 is the lift.)
No power adders other than heads, headers and intake.
Weight: not sure but it's definitely not light by no means. Crew cab LTZ, 6" lift, custom heavy duty bumpers, custom skid.
I would assume the duration @50 is not big with a lift of .525. So you might be ok with the stock converter. But would like to know more about the cam and intended usage, how much spirited driving vs just cruising? Any towing?
Chris
Chris
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Cam Lift: .525” Intake / .525” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 226 deg. Intake / 236 deg. Exhaust
Lobe Separation: 110 Degree
It has a whopping 11 degrees of overlap at .050 and therefore probably needs at least a 3000, if not 3600, stall.
Trending Topics
That assumption is not always correct. For example the GM ASA cam has these specs:
Cam Lift: .525” Intake / .525” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 226 deg. Intake / 236 deg. Exhaust
Lobe Separation: 110 Degree
It has a whopping 11 degrees of overlap at .050 and therefore probably needs at least a 3000, if not 3600, stall.
Cam Lift: .525” Intake / .525” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 226 deg. Intake / 236 deg. Exhaust
Lobe Separation: 110 Degree
It has a whopping 11 degrees of overlap at .050 and therefore probably needs at least a 3000, if not 3600, stall.
Chris
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
274/285 is the "advertised" duration; more useful is the 0.050 duration. If you have the cam card handy, tell us the .050 duration and the LSA value.
I'm sure lots of people here will get a laugh out of that question, but none of us were born with the knowledge, we all have to learn it and you will someday laugh too.
A vacuum pump creates vacuum to operate the power brakes when you have an aggressive cam; it can also clear out crankcase pressure in extreme HP engines.
A "stall" is a torque converter with a higher than stock "stall speed" which determines how the engine couples to the transmission at different RPMs. It allows the engine to "shoot" immediately to a higher RPM while the drivetrain is still at a lower RPM. This helps avoid the low-rpm engine bog which an aggressive cam can cause. In other words, with an e.g. 3000 stall, the engine will never be below 3000 rpm under high throttle.
In short, YES, you still need a stall.
A vacuum pump creates vacuum to operate the power brakes when you have an aggressive cam; it can also clear out crankcase pressure in extreme HP engines.
A "stall" is a torque converter with a higher than stock "stall speed" which determines how the engine couples to the transmission at different RPMs. It allows the engine to "shoot" immediately to a higher RPM while the drivetrain is still at a lower RPM. This helps avoid the low-rpm engine bog which an aggressive cam can cause. In other words, with an e.g. 3000 stall, the engine will never be below 3000 rpm under high throttle.
In short, YES, you still need a stall.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Haha I had a feeling that was a crazy question but I'm still picking up on things as I go, I'm definitely an amateur still, as you can tell lol but I work off and my brother isn't around the cam card anymore and I need to order this converter tomorrow, so based on the info (if I have provided enough) what kind of stall do you recommend?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Haha I had a feeling that was a crazy question but I'm still picking up on things as I go, I'm definitely an amateur still, as you can tell lol but I work off and my brother isn't around the cam card anymore and I need to order this converter tomorrow, so based on the info (if I have provided enough) what kind of stall do you recommend?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...converter.html
(I'm a bit partial to CircleD, but wanted to be honest about other options.)
If your budget allows $750, both CircleD and Yank have excellent converters.
Last edited by mrvedit; Nov 7, 2014 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Typo
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Ok I've got the converter waiting on me. Last time I installed the tranny I had a check engine light, service stabilitrak, service traction control warning lights and my keyless start wouldn't work. Would disconnecting the batteries have something to do with that? If so do I need to reset anything? Or would I have one of the sensors mixed up?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
When installing the converter you absolutely need to be sure it it fully seated or you will ruin both the transmission and the converter.
When you think the converter is fully seated, put a straight edge over the bell housing and measure the distance to the converter pads.
Ensure that the converter mounting pads are between 1" and 1-1/4" (ideally 1-1/8") from the edge of the bell housing.
Anything under 1" indicates the pump is NOT yet engaged.
Disconnecting the battery should not cause such problems. Lots of people do that just to erase various codes. You need to hook up a scanner to see what the code numbers are; we can then help you with those.
When you think the converter is fully seated, put a straight edge over the bell housing and measure the distance to the converter pads.
Ensure that the converter mounting pads are between 1" and 1-1/4" (ideally 1-1/8") from the edge of the bell housing.
Anything under 1" indicates the pump is NOT yet engaged.
Disconnecting the battery should not cause such problems. Lots of people do that just to erase various codes. You need to hook up a scanner to see what the code numbers are; we can then help you with those.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
I got the converter in and fully seated. As I was putting it in, I noticed a few teeth on the flywheel had small chips on the edges. Will that affect or totally ruin something if 3-4 teeth is chipped?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
As long as the 3-4 teeth are not together and none are completely missing, it should give little trouble. If a tooth is completely missing, the starter might not engage.
An aftermarket "stock" flexplate is only about $60.
An aftermarket "stock" flexplate is only about $60.