I did order a couple different kits that do bearings and seals also which between them and 3/4 socket set and deep freezer I will get that for sure.
I spent the last couple hours searching on convertors and I am not sure the circle d 278mm convertor is a good choice for a turbo car. Not sure what to go with.

 

I am going to start cleaning things tonight I got the case cleaned yesterday. I also drained the oil pan I had laying under the transmission that it drained into and I found this little spring I am not sure if it was already in my pan or it came from some where in the transmission but sure cant figure out where. I also had a extra cone under the tailshaft housing I am not sure if this actually go back on also.
Jake I also am not sure what fluid do you recommend soaking the clutches in and what transmission fluid should I run in the transmission know also.

 

My 4l80 came out of an 06 van so Id assume we have the same tail shaft housing and slip yoke design. I believe the cone helps keep trans fluid from getting in the splines of the yoke and tail shaft causing a leak. Does your yoke have a o-ring inside it?

 

I did not check the van yoke I am not sure if going to use stock van yoke or a different one yet.
Hopefully Jake will jump in and let me know on which trans fluid to soak clutches in and what to run after rebuild.

 

Call or e-mail the guys at Circle D, they have more converters than they list on their website.

 

Well my Jakes rebuild kit will be here tomorrow and I am ready to lay it all out tomorrow when it arrives. I have about every bit of it cleaned and all layed out to to start matching up bushings and get them all in. I am nut sure how long I should leave the clutches soak. I am going to grab a gallon or so of dex 3 tomorrow.

 

I thought I responded to this yesterday.

We don't soak clutches but we run the trans on the dyno. Check all your clearances before you soak the clutches, if you choose to do so.

Dex 3 is fine. If you are gonna soak them, I would give them 15 mins or more. I used to soak them overnight.

 

Okay well I may of screwed up already I installed rear case bushing and seal last night and installed case bushing with cutouts facing the seal just like the one I drove out was and just seen on your tips sheet to install with cutouts facing into trans. Is this a problem. I am sure If I try to drive it back out to flip around it will be damaged.

 

Don't sweat it. It works fine either way.

 

Thanks
That is great news what are the two little plugs like quarter diameter one is closed and one is open that come in zip lock bag with that bushing. Also in the tip sheet it talks about using a 3/8 cup plug installed if using the stock separator plate as shown but have no picture of any of that I got seven pages am I missing something.

 

The solid plug is for plugging the center support feed hole in the case. It goes to the right side of the center support bolt as viewing with the casting area towards you, bellhousing up.

The other plug is a seal, you can install it on the LH side.

 

Okay which is the two holes that you blow air into on each side of the center bolt to pressure check it.
This is the seal on inner drum to leave out.

 

Yes that is the seal and it's easiest to cover the RH feed, and apply pressure to the left.

 

Okay well so far tonight I have dropped the first section down in the transmission case about 10 times. I installed the band and the thinnest snap ring out of the 3 in the case then I started with the .020 shim and the torrington bearing and installed the whole assembly and got the center support in and lined up the whole in valve body side for bolt and will not go down far enough will not even go down far enough with the .010 shim and also cant get the beveled snap wring above center support in due to center support not dropping down far enough. I am really confused and going to go on to something else and hope some one on here has some idea what I am doing wrong.

 

When using our rear torrington kit, you do not use either of the OEM thrust washers in the back of the case, so be sure you omitted them.

 

I did omit both of them and still confused. I also tried just the bearing no shims a little bit ago and it was closer but still not all the way down to get snap ring above center support in. Here is the bearing I am trying to use and I am facing the black plastic down correct?

So I went ahead and got the forward hub all put together I assume I reuse the wavy plate in it. I also got one steel and one extra clutch wrapped separately in the box I am not sure what them are for.
I also started looking at the direct hub and will have to buy some more 1/16 drill bits tomorrow and going to have to find a drill that will hold a bit that small all three of my drills two cordless drills and one electric chucks don't go that small.

I also am going to buy another feeler gauge today that is angled so I can check the forward and direct clutch clearances mine are all straight and will not fit in there. Unless there is a way guys use a magnetic base and dial caliber to do this.

 

Okay another update I got all the other assemblies put together tonight I just need to verify all the clutch gap on all the assemblies once I find a good video showing how to do that and specs.

But major problem I still have is getting direct drive setup in every time install the center support it will not go down far enough still misses like .010-.015 of getting snap ring in and center support bolt in. I completely removed the first section and started over and I still am not sure what is going on but something is not right.

Jake also what is the extra steel and friction that was in the box wrapped up buy it self in the brown paper.

 

I completely tore down the lower assembly again and under the sun gear I have a bearing and two races sits right on top of the ring gear. I also have this shim that I included a picture of I looked thru the manual and I don't see that and I am 99.9% percent sure I removed it from their. I removed it and it dropped down farther which let me start the snap ring but dont look like it is all the way in. I also included a picture from your site that shows the brass four tang washer and I am trying to use the black plastic one that I had to remove 2 of the little humps because I only have two. Should it be the brass one instead. I am pretty confused on what is going on.
1st picture is shim I removed but am pretty sure it has to go back in.
2nd is the one from your site with brass washer not the plastic one
3rd if you look it still looks like snap ring is still not all the way in.

 

The extra clutch and steel are for putting 6 in the direct if you choose.

The shim goes between the rear internal ring gear and the torrington bearing on the front side, under the sun gear.

The plastic or metal 4 tang washer is fine, but one or the other.

Be sure you don't have thrust washers double stacked on the back of the center support in the recessed area.

Be sure your case bushing isn't protruding forward too much. Just enough to catch the bearing.

 

Black side down is correct.

We don't use any waved clutches in our performance builds.