4l80e trans rebuild kit
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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So you don't use the wavy plates in forward or direct drum first then steel while reassembly?
What is the pros and cons of using the 6 in the direct?
And then just run the 5 with no wavy in the forward?
I also just pulled it all back out and I did confirm only one race is stuck to bottom of center support that goes on top of sun gear bearing.
I also reinstalled the shim in the internal ring gear under the race and bearing and set it all back in and of course same problem. I also did check the bushing in the case and it is barely sticking up at all just enough to hold torrington bearing. You can see here it looks like the center support will not drop down far enough for some reason.
What is the pros and cons of using the 6 in the direct?
And then just run the 5 with no wavy in the forward?
I also just pulled it all back out and I did confirm only one race is stuck to bottom of center support that goes on top of sun gear bearing.
I also reinstalled the shim in the internal ring gear under the race and bearing and set it all back in and of course same problem. I also did check the bushing in the case and it is barely sticking up at all just enough to hold torrington bearing. You can see here it looks like the center support will not drop down far enough for some reason.
No wave plates anywhere.
I would retain waves, but not stock ones, in the clutch packs for a stock towing type build but otherwise not use them.
6 clutches in the direct will give more power capacity if it's needed. It's generally not needed to over 1000 HP.
Check the rear of the center support, in the recessed area that the reaction carrier rides in. Be sure you don't have 2 thrust washers there.
Try the assembly without the band in the case and see if that is holding you up.
I would retain waves, but not stock ones, in the clutch packs for a stock towing type build but otherwise not use them.
6 clutches in the direct will give more power capacity if it's needed. It's generally not needed to over 1000 HP.
Check the rear of the center support, in the recessed area that the reaction carrier rides in. Be sure you don't have 2 thrust washers there.
Try the assembly without the band in the case and see if that is holding you up.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 86
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I did double check thrust washers in recessed area and only have one brass one in there. I will try the band for sure this afternoon that is the only thing I have not removed and tore apart 20 times, but don't think that is it because looking at pictures my center support looks to be sitting higher on the shaft than other pictures. But you know .020 is hard to see in picture just going of grooves and all that. And since this morning when I look at the gears with the sun gears the sun gear looks to be sitting to high. Are the 3 little bearings that are above and below the sun gear and the one under the interanal ring gear above the tail shaft the same or wonder if some how I have gotten them mixed up know. The one under the sun gear has them three knock out tabs in the race so I am almost positive the other ones are correct.
Last edited by abadbowtie; Feb 5, 2015 at 01:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 86
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Okay for a update if anyone else ever has this problem check to make sure the sun gear tube slides all the way thru the center support bushing mine was hanging up on that at the very top from when I drove it in. Real fine rat tail file took care of that no problem and fell all the way in and center bolt lined right up and snap ring went right in.
I still would of been fighting this I am sure if it wasn't for talking to Jake tonight to figure this out.
Thanks again Jake at Jakes performance.
I still would of been fighting this I am sure if it wasn't for talking to Jake tonight to figure this out.
Thanks again Jake at Jakes performance.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 86
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Well still working on this transmission but want to work on the valve body tonight to get all that done. I have a 5/16 allen set screw to block the 2-3 accumulator in housing. Does anybody have a picture to make sure I am blocking the right port. I also am not sure what check ***** go back in and which ones to omit.
Well still working on this transmission but want to work on the valve body tonight to get all that done. I have a 5/16 allen set screw to block the 2-3 accumulator in housing. Does anybody have a picture to make sure I am blocking the right port. I also am not sure what check ***** go back in and which ones to omit.
Plug the accumulator that's at an angle.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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I did look at you transbrake page which is what had me thinking that all the check ***** are not going back in. But that is not a 4l80e so is it still the same. and the 5/16 set screw their goes in the case and mine goes in the accumulator housing right.
You're on the wrong pagehttp://jakesperformance.com/site/0f671adf3e8d47188748d19576fe7c3e/default?url=http%3A%2F%2Fjakesperformance.com%2F4L 80_T-brake_Instruction.html
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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Copy and pasting what you posted does not work this is the one I was looking at and it says 4l80e but looks like a 400 case.
http://www.jakesperformance.com/4L80...struction.html
http://www.jakesperformance.com/4L80...struction.html
Copy and pasting what you posted does not work this is the one I was looking at and it says 4l80e but looks like a 400 case.
http://www.jakesperformance.com/4L80...struction.html
http://www.jakesperformance.com/4L80...struction.html
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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Okay so that is the correct link but it shows blocking 2-3 accumulator in the case not the accumulator housing which is why I am confused.
I guess mail is lost somewhere I still ain't seen that bushing yet Justin did get it out I hope.
I guess mail is lost somewhere I still ain't seen that bushing yet Justin did get it out I hope.
Those are transbrake instructions, so disregard the transbrake specific mods. I posted for checkball location only.
The 2-3 accumulator hole that needs to be plugged is the one that you can plug without removing the pin in the housing, it goes into the housing at an angle. Just removed the piston, tap it, install set screw, clean the chips, and install the other piston and spring as per stock. I'll try to get a pic of it later today.
The 2-3 accumulator hole that needs to be plugged is the one that you can plug without removing the pin in the housing, it goes into the housing at an angle. Just removed the piston, tap it, install set screw, clean the chips, and install the other piston and spring as per stock. I'll try to get a pic of it later today.
Justin packaged those the evening I spoke to you and they were dropped at the post office the next day.
There are shipping delays all over due to weather. I suspect they may be delayed by that.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
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Okay I got the bushing today to finish putting the pump together and went ahead and put it down in the case and of course got something else wrong know. I have no idea what is going on but after I bolted the pump down I can not turn the input shaft or the output shaft either way for nothing. I also have no end play on input shaft know. So I removed pump and checked to make sure the overdrive assemble was all the way down and sure looks like it and reinstalled pump and same problem.
What was the postdate on the bushings?
Welcome to the world of automatic transmission rebuilding.
Pull the input shaft and make sure it turns in the pump bushings.
Welcome to the world of automatic transmission rebuilding.
Pull the input shaft and make sure it turns in the pump bushings.
Okay I got the bushing today to finish putting the pump together and went ahead and put it down in the case and of course got something else wrong know. I have no idea what is going on but after I bolted the pump down I can not turn the input shaft or the output shaft either way for nothing. I also have no end play on input shaft know. So I removed pump and checked to make sure the overdrive assemble was all the way down and sure looks like it and reinstalled pump and same problem.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Well tonight I got a couple hours to work on it again and I pulled the input shaft back out and pulled snap ring of to pull it out of the gears I slide it in the pump all buy itself and to get it last last 3/8 of a inch got to give it a small slap with your hand to get it to bottom out. But turns okay when in so I pulled it back out and both surfaces on the input shaft I cleaned with emery cloth and seems better but almost like I need to barely hone the inside of the bushings a couple thousands when shaft is all the way in pump you have to kind of tap it back and forth with you hands so that is why I am thinking I don't have any end play. Just not sure how to clean inside of bushings a very small bit. They don't have lips from driving them in that was first thing I checked and hoped that was it.
Well tonight I got a couple hours to work on it again and I pulled the input shaft back out and pulled snap ring of to pull it out of the gears I slide it in the pump all buy itself and to get it last last 3/8 of a inch got to give it a small slap with your hand to get it to bottom out. But turns okay when in so I pulled it back out and both surfaces on the input shaft I cleaned with emery cloth and seems better but almost like I need to barely hone the inside of the bushings a couple thousands when shaft is all the way in pump you have to kind of tap it back and forth with you hands so that is why I am thinking I don't have any end play. Just not sure how to clean inside of bushings a very small bit. They don't have lips from driving them in that was first thing I checked and hoped that was it.