JW Flexplate. What Bolts?
JW Flexplate. What Bolts? Need help. I am trying to use a J.W Flexplate on my 4.8 LS. The original flexplate has a thick crank adapter so the original hardware is to long for the J.W by a lot. Maybe 1/2 inch. The only thing ARP offers is 1 size. The original is about 1.07 in thread length and the ARP is .880. I don't believe thats going to be short enough to tighten this plate down without like .300 of slack.
Anyone have this problem?
Anyone have this problem?
The JW flexplate is at least as thick as the OE flexplate, which use the ARP bolts. So I think you are safe. But make sure you get the flexplate bolts, not flywheel - different threaded length.
Chris
Chris
It's not even close Chris. The stocker has a crank flange built in that's probably 1/2 thick that the bolts go through. The j.w is a flat plate where it sits on the crank but has an overall dish to make up the depth.
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Have you actually measured the depth of the flexplate holes on your crank?
I have never read of anyone finding the ARP 0.880 bolt length too long.
I just measured the depth of the threads on my aftermarket crank and the holes are .950 deep.
I have never read of anyone finding the ARP 0.880 bolt length too long.
I just measured the depth of the threads on my aftermarket crank and the holes are .950 deep.
I haven't done any measuring just yet. I just got the .880 ARP's in today but haven't got a chance to hit the shop and see if they work. They're definitely shorter than the stock bolts which are over 1 inch so hopefully it's enough to not bottom out before the plate tightens.
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Hey its your thread, so here goes.
The LS2 is currently being replaced with a stroker 419 LS3. The 4150 style intake manifold (with EFI throttle body) works well for me and confuses people looking at it.
The LS2 is currently being replaced with a stroker 419 LS3. The 4150 style intake manifold (with EFI throttle body) works well for me and confuses people looking at it.
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Verdad Gallardo Car is awesome!! I had a black '81 when I was 15 around 1996 or so.
2 questions while I have you here. Does your steam vents seem to do okay running into the overflow tank like that? I may steal that idea if so. lol. Are the rears blocked?
also, How do you like the Corvette accessory system on there? I bought the pump and balancer for that system but still need to get that $540 kit to complete it. Did it install easy with no hang ups?
Here is a picture of my engine the way it sits....incomplete.
2 questions while I have you here. Does your steam vents seem to do okay running into the overflow tank like that? I may steal that idea if so. lol. Are the rears blocked?
also, How do you like the Corvette accessory system on there? I bought the pump and balancer for that system but still need to get that $540 kit to complete it. Did it install easy with no hang ups?
Here is a picture of my engine the way it sits....incomplete.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Keen eye on the steam vents. I made some mods after that picture.
The steam venting into the overflow tank did not work well - the tank would overflow after a few track runs. I there drilled and tapped a hole into the thermostat cover which worked well but looked a bit odd.
Just today I took my aluminum radiator to a welding shop to install an aluminum AN-4 fitting. I just order an AN-4 steam pipe setup from ebay seller alper-motorsports. The rear ones are blocked.
The previous picture shows an F-Body accessory setup using the Kwikperf brackets. They worked poorly as they mount the PS pump in such a way that it always leaks. I have since then changed to the new Holley brackets which work and look better.
The following pictures show those changes (sorry pic quality isn't as good):
I also now have a 6-point roll bar:
The steam venting into the overflow tank did not work well - the tank would overflow after a few track runs. I there drilled and tapped a hole into the thermostat cover which worked well but looked a bit odd.
Just today I took my aluminum radiator to a welding shop to install an aluminum AN-4 fitting. I just order an AN-4 steam pipe setup from ebay seller alper-motorsports. The rear ones are blocked.
The previous picture shows an F-Body accessory setup using the Kwikperf brackets. They worked poorly as they mount the PS pump in such a way that it always leaks. I have since then changed to the new Holley brackets which work and look better.
The following pictures show those changes (sorry pic quality isn't as good):
I also now have a 6-point roll bar:
I'm really just shooting for 10.0 at 135. I have a feeling it's going to have no problem getting into the high tens at 130 ish and than i'm going to iron all the bugs out within the season and get real close to my number. The car has a good fuel system, Intercooler, Suspension and i'm putting a nice roll bar in it to stiffen it up a bit.
Just an update,
the .880 ARP Flexplate bolts screw all the way in with no problem.
I'm getting mixed ideas of what to seal them with when installing so that's my next venture. Red Lock Tite or some Ultra RTV?
the .880 ARP Flexplate bolts screw all the way in with no problem.
I'm getting mixed ideas of what to seal them with when installing so that's my next venture. Red Lock Tite or some Ultra RTV?
Ok thanks. I was under the impression they were into the open crank case and subject to oil leaking. The bolts I took out had Ultra Grey on them and that's what threw me off.