Pressure on Trans coolant lines?
Pressure on Trans coolant lines? I've just finished my turbo build and my front exit exhaust it hitting the factory trans coolant lines. Only option I see is to cut them in front of where the alternator would be and bring them around the radiator to the tans cooler.
Anyways, will just using clamps be enough to hold the lines on where I make the cuts? They are flared a little from the factory but if their isn't much pressure and regular hose clamps will work, I'm not going to waste my time renting a flare tool and such.
Anyways, will just using clamps be enough to hold the lines on where I make the cuts? They are flared a little from the factory but if their isn't much pressure and regular hose clamps will work, I'm not going to waste my time renting a flare tool and such.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I don't know this for sure, but I "think" the pressure in the coolant line is less than the line pressure, but still quite high. I "think" that clamping a rubber hose over a cut factory coolant line is likely to leak. Anything rubber in the vicinity to a turbo exhaust sounds like trouble to me. My suggestion is to replace the factory lines with Teflon AN-6 lines which can be routed where you need them.
Let me know if you need help fab'ing Teflon lines.
Let me know if you need help fab'ing Teflon lines.
I don't know this for sure, but I "think" the pressure in the coolant line is less than the line pressure, but still quite high. I "think" that clamping a rubber hose over a cut factory coolant line is likely to leak. Anything rubber in the vicinity to a turbo exhaust sounds like trouble to me. My suggestion is to replace the factory lines with Teflon AN-6 lines which can be routed where you need them.
Let me know if you need help fab'ing Teflon lines.
Let me know if you need help fab'ing Teflon lines.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I follow the method I learned from a video on the Anplumbing website; however the video is not currently available. I have tried the hacksaw, cutoff wheel and hose cutter methods and they all make a mess out of the braided wires. The Anplumbing method seems primitive but works fast and clean. Here is what you need and you can get it all at Lowes, Homedepot or decent hardware store:
1. A block of alumimum at least 1/8" thick and 2" wide, 8" long. It's gotta be aluminum, steel or wood will not work.
2. A 2" or 3" wide brick chisel with safety guard. Search "Stanley 3-in Brick Set Chisel". About $11. Pick the one with the straightest sharp edge. A bit convex is better than a bit concave.
3. A 3lb sledge hammer.
Procedure:
1. Wrap some black tape to both protect the hose a bit, but mostly to indicate the cut point at the edge of the tape.
2. Place the hose on the aluminum block, obviously where you want to cut it.
3. Place the chisel on the cut point.
4. With one or two swings of the sledge hammer cut the hose. I use two swings, the first medium swing firmly pinches the hose; the second full swing complete cuts the hose.
The chisel will cut a bit into the aluminum block, but it is that cut which also cuts the braided wires very cleanly.
Then use pliers to get the hose nice and round again; remove the tape and you should have a very cleanly cut hose.
I suggest practicing a few times, e.g. cut try cutting the hose a few inches longer than you need.
I estimate I can cut and install a normal AN fitting in 3 minutes per fitting. Teflon AN in about 5 minutes per fitting.
1. A block of alumimum at least 1/8" thick and 2" wide, 8" long. It's gotta be aluminum, steel or wood will not work.
2. A 2" or 3" wide brick chisel with safety guard. Search "Stanley 3-in Brick Set Chisel". About $11. Pick the one with the straightest sharp edge. A bit convex is better than a bit concave.
3. A 3lb sledge hammer.
Procedure:
1. Wrap some black tape to both protect the hose a bit, but mostly to indicate the cut point at the edge of the tape.
2. Place the hose on the aluminum block, obviously where you want to cut it.
3. Place the chisel on the cut point.
4. With one or two swings of the sledge hammer cut the hose. I use two swings, the first medium swing firmly pinches the hose; the second full swing complete cuts the hose.
The chisel will cut a bit into the aluminum block, but it is that cut which also cuts the braided wires very cleanly.
Then use pliers to get the hose nice and round again; remove the tape and you should have a very cleanly cut hose.
I suggest practicing a few times, e.g. cut try cutting the hose a few inches longer than you need.
I estimate I can cut and install a normal AN fitting in 3 minutes per fitting. Teflon AN in about 5 minutes per fitting.
Ah, I thought you were talking snout something different. I've got a cutter for AN hose from Summit. I just got done doing lines for my turbo feed/drain and power steering. That thing works great and leaves a perfect edge.
I really don't think the heat will be to bad were I'm looking to run them. I measured and the closest place they will ever be to the hotside is 8". We're you just implying to run the hose because of the heat or the pressure?
I was hoping you would chime in on this post, I always look for your replies in trans related issues. It's ovivuos this is your thing.
I really don't think the heat will be to bad were I'm looking to run them. I measured and the closest place they will ever be to the hotside is 8". We're you just implying to run the hose because of the heat or the pressure?
I was hoping you would chime in on this post, I always look for your replies in trans related issues. It's ovivuos this is your thing.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I was suggesting the Teflon AN line for both pressure and heat. I know some people have said that double clamps on a hose are enough to prevent leaks, but I think the pressure can get up to 100 psi or so. Hot oil at 100 psi is a harsh environment for a rubber hose. If the hose fails you ruin your trans.
I'll probably just purchase the hose. Do you know what size fits the trans lines? Without going down stairs, I belive its 5/16". You think I should try and weld an end to the existing lines to screw the fittings on?
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Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
AN-6 is perfect for the trans lines; that is equivalent to 3/8" inside diameter.
I'm the 2nd worst welder in the world (used to the very worst before I practiced more) and therefore wouldn't weld it myself.
Whether you have a 4L60E or 4L80E, AN-6 adapters are readily available. Some coolers have pipe threads and therefore only require pipe to AN-6 adapters.
I'm the 2nd worst welder in the world (used to the very worst before I practiced more) and therefore wouldn't weld it myself.
Whether you have a 4L60E or 4L80E, AN-6 adapters are readily available. Some coolers have pipe threads and therefore only require pipe to AN-6 adapters.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 714
From: Poplarville, MS
Why not just slide a flare nut on the line where you cut it and then flare the end of the line. Then use an AN adapter to your Teflon AN line. That would be easier than welding and just as secure.
I've never used a flare nut or the tool. I'll look it up on YouTube ans see how it works.
I used 2 Russell transmission to -6an adapter fittings, 2 45* -6an hose fittings off the trans, -6an stainless braided line(output to bottom of radiator/return to bottom of trans cooler), 1 straight -6an hose fitting, inverted flare to -6an adapter for the bottom fitting on the radiator. Used the barb fitting in the try-cool trans cooler for the top. No issues here, and this is a built 4l60e.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I've clamped cooler line over the stock lines and it never leaked in a couple of years but I consider myself lucky. AN is the way to go for the long run.