Suggestions for a 4l60e rebuild kit
So I ask you, people with more knowledge and experience than me, to recommend me what to buy to rebuild the transmission. I already have pretty much every valve body part/upgrade, Sonnax HP valve body kit, TCC upgrade, new separator plate, etc and I've been reading about transmissions for weeks in preparation for the valve body work I was planning to do.
At the risk of sounding stupid, this kit seems like a comprehensive one and includes some of the improved parts I've read about. I was also considering getting the Sonnax sun shell to address the factory weak sun shell. It's just a daily driver '96 Silverado with some rare light towing, so nothing extreme is needed. I just want a good rebuild kit so I can do this once and not have to worry about transmission problems for at least another 100,000 miles. I have a friend who is a major DIY'er and has a lot of specialty tools, including even alignment equipment although that's not relevant here, that I can borrow stuff from.
http://www.trutechtrans.com/TT4L60E-...L1-Basket.html
Thank you in advance for your replies. I'm a poor student and it's basically either rebuild it myself or bum rides until I graduate and get a job. I've been watching 4l60e rebuild videos from multiple producers, have the GM 4l60e service manual, and am reasonably handy around the house and repair my friend's vehicles in exchange for food and beer, but rebuilding a transmission is intimidating for me, but I'll get through it. If there's some information that could help with suggestions, please just ask.
I know I'm out of place here with driving a truck, but this forum has by far the most 4l60e information and knowledgeable members on the Internet.
I found a bushing installer set on Amazon for $20 that has all the right sizes for the 4l60e bushings. A guy in our local beer club is going to loan me his transmission jack. Another guy in the beer club has some land with flat concrete where I can drive my truck to and doesn't mind tranny fluid spilling. Hitting up the pawn shops looking for 1/2" extensions, or at least 3/8", that add up to over 30" long. I'd really, really prefer to get some USA ones since it'll be under stress levels that there's a lot of reports of the Chinese ones snapping or bending. A guy I work with has a micrometer and feeler gauges. I'm going to make the spring compressor tool. I can't see spending $150 on a spring compressor tool when I can make one for $10.
How often is the reverse input drum in need of a replacement when the 3-4 clutches are bad? Obviously I'd rather not spend another $100 on a new AC Delco one, but if I open the tranny and the drum is burned and/or uneven, that's another week of down time waiting for a new one to arrive.
Also, any opinions on reusing the torque converter? I've read people letting it drain for an hour, adding a couple quarts of fluid, sloshing it around, then draining again. It's got 140,000 miles on it and has had two owners. An very old man who averaged 6,000 miles a year driving around town. And me, who also drives like an old man and changed the fluid regularly.
This thread has some links to tools and books to help with the rebuild:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
The reverse drum can wear in two places. One is on the outside where the band rides. The other is in the inside area where the stator shaft teflon rings ride. The inside area must be perfectly smooth or you will lose reverse in the near future. Unless the friction on the band completely wore out, the outside area is likely to be OK. You don't need a wide band, but if/when a wide band is installed, the reverse drum needs to be new.
If in doubt, post some pics of the Reverse drum.
You might want to keep track of this other rebuild thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-overhaul.html
Note my suggestion in #16 to post pictures of the inside of the pump halves.
I don't have the experience to answer your converter question.
Perhaps someone else does. CircleD sells a good basic converter for around $400.
http://www.transmissionbench.com/
I didn't have any of the specially tools, just made a few of them myself. Good luck!
http://www.transmissionbench.com/
I didn't have any of the specially tools, just made a few of them myself. Good luck!

Those videos are actually what I'm going to be watching while I do the rebuild. I've watched the entire series a few times now to try to make it flow more easily when I'm actually doing it.
Jimmy (transmissionbench.com) has by far the best videos I've been able to find on the Internet for a 4l60e rebuild and I'm donating some money to him via his website in thanks for him spending an enormous amount of time making the videos.
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And Im throwing code P0757. "Shift solenoid B stuck on" The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I bought a new AC Delco wiring harness and complete solenoid set, including force motor and manifold pressure switch for $132 shipped.
So the plus is that I don't have to buy the special Torx 50+ bit and that's several reportedly very stuck bolts I don't have to undo. And no 12 o'clock bolt on the bellhousing where it bolts into the engine that people have trouble reaching.
The downside is that it's different from the transmission dropping videos/instructions I've been able to find. I can't imagine it's that much of a difference though. And that all the rebuilding will have to be done with the bellhousing on.
In '96 they made 4l60e's with both removable and non-removable bellhousings.
The video on the top of the page details the differences in the 4l60e styles.
http://www.transmissionbench.com/4L60Evideos.html
You have a 298mm input shaft instead of 300mm.
You will have a 10 vane pump instead of 13 vanes; no big difference.
You will have a weaker sun shell, forward sprag and low/reverse clutch than the latest ('03+) parts.
Therefore, if not already, add the BW 29 element forward sprag, a new GM sunshell and a new GM low/reverse clutch.
While the '03+ GM sunshells are heat treated and much stronger than the older ones, even better is the Sonnax Smart Shell (about $90) which has the added benefit of putting much less stress on the real planetary inner bearing.
You have a 298mm input shaft instead of 300mm.
You will have a 10 vane pump instead of 13 vanes; no big difference.
You will have a weaker sun shell, forward sprag and low/reverse clutch than the latest ('03+) parts.
Therefore, if not already, add the BW 29 element forward sprag, a new GM sunshell and a new GM low/reverse clutch.
While the '03+ GM sunshells are heat treated and much stronger than the older ones, even better is the Sonnax Smart Shell (about $90) which has the added benefit of putting much less stress on the real planetary inner bearing.
If I can get both a new forward and reverse sprag from BW for $56 shipped, would you suggest to get both? The forward by itself is $43. I take it the forward sprag is something usually seen with considerable wear in earlier 4l60e's?
I did already order the Sonnax Smart Shell. I've seen that is a pretty much universal recommendation for a 4l60e rebuild.
I'm pretty sure the kit I ordered has new clutches for the low/reverse. I believe I see 4 different sets of clutch packs.
I'm crossing my fingers that the reverse input drum is still good. That would add another $90.
Last edited by mrvedit; Mar 10, 2015 at 12:17 AM.
Actually, Amazon has the AC Delco reverse input drum for $70 with free two day shipping for Prime members. It really pays to shop around.
I recall a thread where the OP rebuilt his trans successfully only to have the low/reverse clutch (sprag) fail a month later. Hence I suggest it; I'm confident the trans sponsor here always replace it too.
Any rebuild kit will include new low/reverse clutches. After installing the lower snap ring air test the low/reverse clutch to make sure it has some clearance.
I liked what the corvetter servo did for my truck's shifting, so I figured why not try these out. Can't hurt that those two together is basically replacing out the entire servo assembly either.
Last edited by coryforsenate; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:20 PM.








