98 4mula

iTrader: (7)

The tip of the pilot has a raised edge. Is it ok to cut off the raised portion on the tip to get the .300 spacing.

Circle-D_Brian

You're right, I looked at one of those pilots we have here. You do not want to cut from the top since it reduces in diameter. You need to leave that intact to center the converter in the crank. I was thinking it was the same OD all the way down. You will have to cut the welds, remove the sleeve, remove the material from the bottom of the sleeve, and then re-install. It uses a slight press fit, so you may have to pry it off. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, send it back to the converter shop and have them replace it with the proper shorter length one.

-Brian

Devinthigpen

I have a 96 k1500 with a 4x4 4l60e and I'm putting a 2006 lq4 long crank 6.0. What do I need to do or get for them to match up correctly?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

They didnt make a long crank in 06

Devinthigpen

so I need the spacer behind the flexplate then correct?

Devinthigpen

Also I was wondering which flexplate to use for it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Just need a 4l60e plate.

RaySS138

Im building a K5 Blazer that I'm putting a 2000 LQ4 with a 700R4 trans as my combo. been looking on summit and several other sites, can't seem to find a flexplate that meets all your listed criteria... this isnt a race aplication, just a nice resto/upgrade project. I dont plan on doing anything crazy to the motor.

I know I have the long crank since its a 2000, and a 10.75" bolt pattern on my 700, I'm just getting confused on the spacing needed...or should it be flat?

Thanks for any help

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

If its a long crank 2000 yes the plate should be flat

RaySS138

Is there a stock application that will fit, or do I need to get a tci or something aftermarket?

Summit isnt telling me the if plates are flat or dished...

Circle-D_Brian

The only aftermarket option that I know of that will work here is the JW Performance 93019-LSC

It is designed specifically for the long crank motors and is flat in shape. I am 90% positive it comes with the 10.75" bolt pattern too so you don't have to elongate holes. Double check with JW before buying though.

-Brian

ballfroguy

iTrader: (1)

Just a little more clarification

For my th400 to bolt up to 6.0 ls2 aluminum block, I need this flexplate

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...iABEgIJLfD_BwE

And a bushing sleeve or a spacer with elongated bolts correct?

postalcop

Ok I read this thread but all as clear as mud to me. I'm a bodyman not a mechanic. I bought a 6.0L out of a 2004 GMC Savana. Iknow these were hooked up to a 4L80e transmission but I want to use a 4L60e transmission. Do I need to change the flex plate or does it depend on what converter I use? What do I need to do to make it work?

Circle-D_Brian

You will simply need to remove the flat flexplate and spacer from your LQ4 crank and run the dished 4l60 style of flexplate. Boom done.

This is assuming your 4l60 is the LS style. If you have the earlier 298mm LT style, I would recommend the TCI 399753 flexplate with pilot extender and correct 10.75" bolt pattern.

-Brian

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Just like a few others, I have a long crank lq4 with a 60e, but I can't find an SFI flexplate that will work (have a stock one but want to get an SFI for piece of mind). I already have a custom built converter with a cut down pilot and 11.5" bolt pattern. Can I use a BBC flat flexplate thats typically used with a th400 as long as it's internal balance / 168 tooth?

Circle-D_Brian

The only company that I know of that makes an SFI flexplate for the long crank motor would be JW. It has the 11.5" pattern, but you only get 3 bolts. The part number is 93019-LSC. You cannot use the sbc/bbc flexplate on an LS motor. The crank bolt pattern is different.

-Brian

jlowry

I've read this sticky and I guess I'm still confused. I had a 5.3 with a th350 in my 68 C10. I bought a 6.0 with a 2wd 4l80e. While I'm rebuilding the 4l80 I was gonna run the 6.0 with the th350. I read the sticky thread and it appeared I could put the dished flexplate and my alignment spacer on the 6.0 and be good. The 6.0 was flat and had the spacer welded to it. The holes for the converter were about a half a hole off so I just wanted to use my existing one that was already. ground out a bit. The converter is definitely completely engaged on the shaft and everything bolts up fine until the last quarter turn on the bell housing bolts. Once I tighten them, I can't spin the converter to align the bolt holes like I think I should. I can obviously get my bolts started before I tighten the bellhousing bolts but I don't want it to be too tight. Any help appreciated.

Juice1997

Circle-D_Brian

What did your 4L60 come out of? Assuming it's the LS style, you will just need to remove the flat flexplate and spacer from your 6.0. Replace it with the dished 4l60 flexplate and let it eat.

-Brian

Traceyholland1

Brian..........help. I've read through the entire thread and seem to have information overload!!!

I have a 6.0.........year unknown.....iron block with a "short" crank that I'm trying to mate to a stock LS style 4L60E. The torque converter is a 3 bolt converter but I don't have a clue on how to measure the bolt pattern diameter. I know it's not the same pattern and the 4L80 flexplate.......tried that one.

Is there an adaptor or flexplate that will allow this?

Thanks!!