Miles B

Just discovered that using a dished flexplate on the long crank will put the ring gear out of reach of the starter. GMPP does make a kit for this: 19154766

I'm keen to find out what that flex plate is. I think it might be the early truck plate.

mrvedit

The GM 19154766 kit does exactly what you need. IMHO the price of $377 seems reasonable for the spacer, flexplate and bolts. Its a very thick spacer; at today's steel prices just a sheet of thick steel is very expensive. Even with a large and powerful CNC plasma cutter, it will be a huge effort to make that spacer.
An alternative is to have a custom torque converter made; this might be very attractive if you are already planning on a custom torque converter. Contact CircleD converters, who helped get this thread started, can surely help you out and supply the correct flexplate.

Miles B

Hi
I'm actually in Australia so getting the kit here is pretty expensive.. and I have a lathe and milling machine so you can understand the idea of finding just the flexplate is more attractive to me. I will talk to some local converter shops and see what they can do. I am curious about these long crank transmissions. The LS converters I've seen seem to be pretty convex and require some kind of dish in the flexplate. I wonder if those long crank transmissions have a different converter with a flatter face too.

Edit: I believe I have found a local seller with a kit in stock, even at a discount price! Going to try to pick it up today.

Edit 2: they sold the kit two days ago! Looks like it'll be cheaper for me to get a new converter made than have a kit shipped. Or I might try to adapt a SBC flexplate by brazing some spacers onto the bolt pads and re-drilling at the right bolt circle, and make my own bellhousing spacer.

bigdaddy350

I am currently doing a swap in my Chevelle. It's a 99 LQ4 with a 2002 4L80E. It's a long crank so I went with the Pioneer FRA452 flat flex plate and a Jegs LS converter. The issue I'm running into is the pilot on the converter seems too long. is it possible I need a spacer? Doesn't add up but there is just shy of a half inch gap between the converter and the flex plate. Any ideas?

Miles B

I'm no expert.. but shouldn't you just use an old style converter for that? Long crank, flat flexplate = SBC/BBC style converter face. Short crank, dished flexplate = LS style converter face. Do you have the original 80e converter to check? Just my (limited) understanding, hope it helps.

bigdaddy350

unfortunately...I disposed of the old convert...not a smart move on my part...

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

1/2" of pull out is a lot! Make sure you are measuring using feeler gauges or my preference: a drill bit. If you are using a measuring tap the measurement be off and converter pull out is 1 measurement and installation you definitely want to get right.

if you are still getting a 1/2 of pull out check and make sure the flexplate isn't on backwards and check overall converter height. a 4L80E converter should measure 6.875" or very close to it(measure from the face of the bolt pad to the face of the top of the hub).

With a long crank and flat flexplate you need a short pilot converter, not a long LS pilot. Its likely that the LS converter you ordered has an LS pilot which will bottom out in the crank early and push on the pump in the transmission if you try to run it. There is also a good chance that if you try to grind down the pilot to fit, you will "strike water" and the converter will no longer be usable. If you can post some photos of the converter we can offer better insight into the pilot.

Lastly, we have some stocking dealers in Australia that may have the correct converter you need if this one is deemed incorrect. Craig at DTM Transmissions in South Geelong, VIC.

-Dalton

Miles B

Some info for anyone in my boat:

The LS transmission to SBC adapter kit is 19154766. It includes the following parts:
1-19154767 Adapter Plate N/S
1-12555640 Flex Plate
2-19155468 Dowel Pins N/S
3-19155469 Spacers N/S
1-15723359 Cover
3-11516328 Bolts HFH M10x1.5x30 N/S
7-19155493 Bolts 3/8x16x1.75 N/S
2-19155495 Bolts 3/8x16x1.25 N/S
5-9440325 Bolts 1/4x20x.380 N/S
1-19156954 Washer 3/8 N/S
1-19155470 Instruction sheet N/S
N/S = Not Serviced separately

The flexplate is from the 4.3 V6 trucks/vans/etc from 1999-2014. This makes sense - the 4.3 is a cut down SBC, which hopefully puts the ring gear in line with the starter.

I found some pictures of the critical parts and the first page of the instructions on another site. My understanding is the three spacers 19155469 space the converter away from the flexplate. I'd really like to have the other pages!

awsomeaussies206

I have a 1999 2 door tahoe with a 5.3 swap in it. I'm was using my original transmission with the spacer. My transmission went out last summer and just got around to buying a new one. I ordered a new one that was beefed up a bit. Still a 4L60e. I thought I was getting sent one the same style transmission, but I believe they sent me the 2000 and up style 4l60e. It has the bigger torque converter. It did not come with the bell housing, so I had to reuse mine. Now the problem is there is a gap that won't close. With the little bit of research I've done, I'm thinking I need to buy the newer bell housing because it's 3/4" longer that the older style. I tried mounting it with the spacer, thinking it was going to mount the same way, then removed the spacer and still will not close the gap. I'm assuming the bell housing is the problem, but wondering if the flex plate might be an issue as well? Is there anyone that's familiar with this set up? If I get a longer bell housing, then would the entire trans be to long? I do have adjustable engine mounts, so I should be able to slide the engine forward some, but I thought I'd ask before throwing parts at it!

mrvedit

Perhaps your original trans was the 298mm style and the new one is the 300mm style.
Look at the pictures in post #2 and #4 of this thread to see the differences: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...hangeable.html
(You might have to remove your converter to be sure - then be sure to fully re-install the converter.)
The 298mm and 300mm versions have different bell housings. If there is any "trick" to reusing the 298mm bell housing with a 300mm input shaft trans, I don't know what it is.
You mentioned you removed the "spacer" which would indicate a short crank LS1, but I wanted to be sure you don't have a long-crank LS1 from e.g. a 1999 truck engine. (The first few posts on this thread describe this issue.)

mrvedit

I just deleted a bunch of unanswered posts in this thread. There was nothing wrong with the questions; they just unfortunately went unanswered and therefore were not contribution to the information here. (I will later also delete this post.)

1kwikZ28

i have a 2005(2006?) 6.0 LQ4 with matching 4l80e out of a 2500 silverado. what SFI flexplate and 3400+ stall billet converter will work with this combo? twin turbo street/drag application.

C-10_Glenn

Hi, is there a same thread with flywheel, transmissions and spacers?
I've ls swapped my 67 C-10 with a 2000 long crank LQ4 and 4L80e from a suburban. A few days ago I bought a 73 Z28 Camaro with 4 speed munchie.
My thoughts now is to put the 350 in the C-10 and the LQ4 in the Camaro. Due to redrilling of flex plates etc does anyone know if a 2002 silverado flywheel/pressure plate and 11" 26T spline clutch plate from a 73 will work with LQ4/munchie?

Monzsta

Sanity check needed. Building up a gen 3 LQ4/4L80E. (long crank) The twist is I'm installing a L8T crankshaft. FTI Performance (and I assume others) offers a 4L80E converter for LT engines. Will this allow me to skip the spacers? Is the bellhousing block depth the same between an LT and an LS? I'm assuming I just run a factory LT flex plate on the L8T crank and ask for the LT option from my converter supplier.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

They aren't commonly found, the long crank 99-00 4.8l was in the 3/4 ton Vans, with a 4L80E behind them. 3/4 ton Trucks of those years had the long crank 6.0l LQ4.