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4l60 valve body gaskets ??

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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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Default 4l60 valve body gaskets ??

hi , i have a 2000 v/b and a 2001 trans so what valve body gaskets do i use ??? thanks ...
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Old May 1, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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Are you doing a rebuild or just dropping the valve body? A rebuild kit should come with the gasket. If not, a search on any transmission parts website should yield a few gasket options and they're be noted for the year range each one is applicable for.

And if you have a 2000 valve body and a 2001 transmission, did you mean 4l60e?
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Old May 1, 2015 | 08:07 PM
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'96 thru '05 (which all have PWM TCC and on/off 3-2 downshift) can use the same separator plate and therefore VB gaskets.
If your separator plate is worn, get the Transgo 46-PLT-96 plate it according to its directions. Torlon (or Ford) checkballs are a good alternative to steel *****.

Compare the gaskets to your separator plate and make sure each plate hole has a corresponding gasket hole. If needed use an Exacto knife to enlarge the gasket holes a bit; reason is the gaskets will shrink/expand due to humidity and might not align exactly.
Also, coat the gaskets with a thin layer of TransGel or Vaseline to stick and align them to the separator plate before final assembly.
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Old May 1, 2015 | 08:32 PM
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this is a rebuild , i have a kit it came with both type gaskets. the c and v gaskets and the ca and vb gaskets .. and have a new transgo plate and torlon *****.. but somewhere i came across the c and v gaskets are for 2000 and down , ca and vb are for 2001 and up , so heres my problem i have 2000 valvebody and a 2001 trans .. i can only find one hole that is different between the two.is there more ?? it had the c and v gaskets in it but was that right ? thanks !
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Old May 1, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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Sorry, I don't have quick access to a set of C-V and CA-VB gaskets right now. Since you noticed the difference, compare it to the separator plate. Just make sure each hole in the plate has a hole in the gasket; extra holes in the gasket don't matter if there is no corresponding hole in the plate.
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Old May 1, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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With "all" TransGo separator plates you use the late type gaskets. The gaskets that come with their Shift kits is the late type. TransGo gaskets do not have the "white" identifying line on them. After drilling the separator plate make sure (mentioned earlier) the gaskets do not cover any holes and enlarge any as necessary. Do this carefully.
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Old May 2, 2015 | 03:23 PM
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so go with the ca-vb gaskets? it looks like the ca - vb have larger holes in some places .. now i got a new stator (77918S1K) it looks the same as the one i have but the neck is smaller in diameter , is this right ? and what about the Sonnax servo release check valve , use it or not ? thanks again for the help , more question to come .... thanks
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Old May 2, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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Don’t use the Sonnax servo release check valve with the TransGo shift kit.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 12:54 AM
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ok thanks, thats what i was thinkin , but just checkin ....
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Old May 3, 2015 | 10:56 AM
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If you are replacing the stator support you need to be absolutely sure you are using the correct one. When you are saying the neck is smaller in diameter, are you referring the spot between the splines and the ring grooves? Compare it to the old one. Make sure all of the holes and grooves are in the same place and bushings are the same size.

There was a guy on here awhile back where his builder installed a later model stator support on an earlier model pump and the trans was doing some strange stuff.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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if i set the reverse drum on the input drum then put the stator shaft on theres a big gap between the thrust washer on the stator and the reverse drum ... what rides on the thurst bearing on the input drum , the stator , reverse drum or both ... the gap is big like three thrust washers thick ....
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Old May 3, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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i was wrong on the stator being smaller the only difference is a groove cut right behind the splines on the neck ... so it should be the one i need .. thanks .. goofin with that stator is how i found that gap ... so maybe that is an endplay issue ? the stator is worn the reverse drum rubbed on the stator at the sealing rings , reaction shaft is worn ....
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Old May 3, 2015 | 05:51 PM
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The stator support rides on the thrust bearing on the input drum. There should be a fairly thick selective washer under this thrust bearing on the input drum. The selective washer sizes range from .074 to .124. If the selective washer is not under the thrust bearing that would explain your gap. Maybe you could post up a few pics of the drums, washers and stator support.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 06:54 PM
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yup theres a thick washer there think its a number 73 ... what does the drum ride on .
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Old May 4, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by xracer33
yup theres a thick washer there think its a number 73 ... what does the drum ride on .
It goes, from top to bottom

Pump stator
Needle bearing
Washer with number on it, the number faces down
Input Drum


There's also plastic thrust tab that sits inbetween the pump and the reverse input drum.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 06:13 PM
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its done just like that , but theres a big gap between the plastic thrust washer and the reverse drum ... so what holds the reverse drum against the plastic thrust washer ? are there different reverse drums? this trans has been rebuilt once so i dont know what has been replaced ..thanks
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Old May 4, 2015 | 07:33 PM
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I was mistaken when I told you that the stator support rides on the thrust bearing on the input drum. The manual says that the reverse drum rides on the thrust bearing on the input drum. Sorry for that. According to the manual there is only one selective washer bigger than the one you have.

How big is the gap between the plastic thrust washer and the reverse drum?
Have you installed it all in the case and checked the endplay?

I don’t have any parts here that I can put together to see how they fit. Hopefully Mrvedit can chime in, it has been a few months since I have had one apart. Some pics would be very helpful.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
I was mistaken when I told you that the stator support rides on the thrust bearing on the input drum. The manual says that the reverse drum rides on the thrust bearing on the input drum. ...
Nope, you were right the first time.
The stator shaft rides on the thrust bearing in the input drum.
The reverse drum "floats" between the sun shell and the pump. The two-prong plastic washer reduces the float and provides a thrust area.

You can measure end play without installing the reverse drum. I measure and set it before even installing the 3/4 clutch as you can then just drop the input drum in, lightly bolt on the pump and measure the end play. From the end play I then adjust the selective washer.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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this is all on the bench, input drum shaft up ,washer and bearing in place, set the reverse drum in place it does rest on the bearing , put the stator through the reverse drum but the plastic thrust is a good 3/16 away from the reverse drum ... theres room for the plastic thrust to fall off ... is there something else thats holds the reverse drum to the plastic thrust ? thanks for all the help .. i cant do pics ... ill see if i can get some help with that ...
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Old May 5, 2015 | 08:33 AM
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There is nothing else to hold the reverse drum to the plastic thrust washer other than the sun shell. Once assembled the sun shell should push the reverse drum closer the thrust washer.

Before assembling, you can compare the height of the reverse drum to the old drum and compare the height of stator support between where the thrust washer goes and the end of the shaft that goes to the input drum thrust bearing to the old stator support. If all of the heights are close to the same, I would assemble into case and recheck. I am pretty sure you will be able to see how much clearance you have once assembled.
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