So, I decided to tackle a torque converter swap by myself even though I've never done one. None of my friends really seemed like they wanted to help so I said screw it and dove right in. So far it has taken me about 2 hours longer than I expected to spend on the whole thing and I don't even have the transmission disconnected from the engine. That's where I need help! I started trying to get the TC bolts out and couldn't at first because of where the starter was, I moved the starter and got the first one, no problem. Now, I'm trying to get the second one and the flexplate keeps turning on me! When it turns it screws up the angle of my socket/extension/breaker bar, and then the whole thing pops out.... screwing up the hex hole in the fastener in the process... I'm getting worried that I might strip out the bolt if I havn't allready. Does anyone have any tips to get these bolts and keep the stupid flexplate from turning?! The last time I did it the hex bit socket that I just bought to do this popped off and landed.... inside the bellhousing, so now I either have to try fish that out or drive 20 minutes into town again and get another one...

 

Allright, new question..... how do you remove stripped torque converter bolts

 

Going back to the original question, there are three ways to remove converter bolts.
1. Use an impact wrench, typically with an impact socket u-joint. Any 18V+ battery impact wrench that can remove wheel bolts should have no problem with this.
2. Have a friend hold the crank with a long breaker bar and a 24mm socket while you use a simple socket wrench or even a box-end wrench.
3. Use a flexplate holding tool, they are about $40 on ebay - search "ls1 flexplate holding tool". This is almost a necessity if you plan to accurately torque the bolts back on.

Sorry to hear you stripped your bolts. Hopefully someone has ideas on how to proceed.

 

I always remove the starter and get it out of the way. Then I use a 3/8 drive deep well 15mm socket and let the flexplate rotate to where the socket and ratchet head are wedged against the oil pan. That keeps the socket on the head of the bolt and keeps the flexplate from turning. I do the same to tighten the bolts, except this time I wedge socket and ratchet head on the starter mounting pad.
Are you saying that you rounded off the outside of the bolt head?

 

Visit a tool store, like Sears or Harbor Freight and buy the sockets for removing stripped bolts. They have a spiral on the inside that grabs the rounded bolt.

I had to use my set to get stripped exhaust bolts out. My dad gave it to me since he never used them, so I didn't have to drive to the store.

 

My method for removing the flywheel bolts was to prop a giant flathead screwdriver into the flywheel teeth with the handle against the ground. Angle is important so you don't accidentally bend the teeth. Then I used a ratchet to undo the bolts. Mine came out pretty easily but I'm sure a shot of liquid wrench an hour before wouldn't hurt.

 

It's an allen head bolt, so the outside of it is round and it is engaged by an inner 8mm hex hole... which is now also round haha. Seems you would need a pretty large screwdriver to engage the flywheel teeth and touch the ground. My new plan is to cut the head of the rounded bolt off with a dremel, and order the flywheel holding tool mentioned by mrvedit for the other one. That's what I should have had in the first place.... had i known it existed before. I guess my car will sit for awhile longer than I had anticipated and this project will drag on for a few days but that's life. Good thing I have more than one vehicle. Thanks for the help!

 

I would also suggest a set of ARP torque converter bolts as they are more robust than the hex head ones. Any hex head converter bolts should be fine. I use red Loctite on these bolts; I think that blue Loctite is recommended, but I have no trouble removing them later even with red.