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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 05:13 PM
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Default .490 boost valve

Which Sonnax boost valve do I need for my car?

77898E-K or 77898E-3k??



2000 4L60E


I put one in my old 99 silverado awhile ago but I cant remember which one I got.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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The 77898E-3k has a factory style boost valve sleeve.

The 77898E-K Has O-rings on the Sleeve to provide a positive seal between the sleeve & pump cover.

If your doing this in the car, Use the Factory style, If rebuilding, Use the O-ring version.
The O-ring version requires some Bore Prep that can't be done in the car.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 08:59 PM
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yeah I actually just found an old Oregon Perf Trans box that had my old boost valve from my Silverado and it was the factory style...


also found a corvette servo in the box as well.. guess I will install that guy tomorrow..
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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I would instead suggest the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve; it is very similar to these OEM replacements but comes with a spring to increase the line pressure a bit more. I think anyone on this forum will prefer it. The -LB1 is for '96 through '05 pumps without ISS.
The -LB2 is for later pumps with ISS; these pumps have a square cutout area in the pump where the boost valve goes. Not sure about pre-'96 stuff.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:21 PM
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good deal.. I will order that one instead
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:28 PM
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What bore prep needs to be done? I don't remember anything in the Sonnax manual about bore prep for installing the O-ring boost valve. Always interested in learning some new tricks.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
I would instead suggest the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve; it is very similar to these OEM replacements but comes with a spring to increase the line pressure a bit more. I think anyone on this forum will prefer it. The -LB1 is for '96 through '05 pumps without ISS.
The -LB2 is for later pumps with ISS; these pumps have a square cutout area in the pump where the boost valve goes. Not sure about pre-'96 stuff.
I agree, At least Sonnax doesn't go overboard like most!
The PR spring in the LB1/LB2 is 10% above stock, They have a 13% over PR spring as well, Works good in trucks with a stock .470 boost valve as a cheap upgrade on stock builds.

All Sonnax performance packs come with a LB2 & a Shim for earlier pumps to space the sleeve.

The LB1 fits all '93 & up 4L60E's.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by coryforsenate
What bore prep needs to be done? I don't remember anything in the Sonnax manual about bore prep for installing the O-ring boost valve. Always interested in learning some new tricks.
Remove the sharp edges at the bores edge with ScotchBrite, Notably the groove for the snap ring, The O-rings are easy to cut. Carefully doing this is hard with ATF dripping in your face.
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Old Aug 8, 2015 | 10:37 PM
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clinebarger: Great to have chiming in with good info. You appear to be an experienced trans mechanic. True?
Why do you say that the bore prep cannot be done with the trans in the car? Are you worrying about a tiny bit of loose aluminum?
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:36 PM
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I you’re concerned about sharp edges in the bore. I don’t see why you can’t use ScotchBrite or a bore doctor with the trans in the car and wash it out with carb or brake cleaner. I’ll take a little ATF in the face if that would stop my 3-4 clutches for burning up.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
clinebarger: Great to have chiming in with good info. You appear to be an experienced trans mechanic. True?
Why do you say that the bore prep cannot be done with the trans in the car? Are you worrying about a tiny bit of loose aluminum?
About 17 years in the industry, I shouldn't have said "Can't", Tearing an O-ring & it getting lodged in the Boost Valve EPC feed hole is my biggest concern. If that were to happen....EPC oil can't enter the EPC reaction area of the Boost Valve, Causing No/Slow line pressure rise that will burn frictions really fast.

Test fitting the Boost Valve sleeve a few times after bore prep to ensure your not going to tear one/both on a sharp edge is a good idea. If you do cut/tear an O-ring now you get to find new O-rings, & do more prep work.

I can't hardly get my big hand in there to do good even prep work all the way around the bore.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 08:08 PM
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Great to have someone with 17 years experience helping out here.
Thanks for explaining what prep work needs to be done to ensure the o-rings don't tear.
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