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Something I initially installed upside down was the case silencer. Was driving me crazy until I really looked closely at the transmissionbench video and saw I installed it upside down.
Clinebarger thanks for the good eye. I fixed the outer race and everything went together like it should. Now onto the next issue, I've been watching the transmission bench videos and when I first dissassembled the input drum, I noticed that there weren't any boost spring retainers around the 34 clutch assembly. My kit only came with new springs, so now I need to find retainers.
Many (most?) trans builders don't use or re-install those springs. For a stock rebuild, the ATSG manual recommends not using them. For very tight (e.g. < .035") 3/4 clutch clearance I would use them, but even then 50% of the pro builders here would not.
Thanks Ted for the input. I finished up the input drum and reverse drum today(those lip seals took me a while to get lined up in the bore). I ended the night by opening up the pump and installed a new bushing. I'll finish up the pump tomorrow and maybe start putting things back into the case.
I keep a 4L60E disassembled so that I can better answer questions here, especially ones pertaining to how parts fit together.
Triple check that you have the forward sprag in correctly; it goes together upside down, but then your trans won't work.
Pump was installed tonight and I started working on the valve body portion. Unfortunately, it seems that I have lost the 34 accumulator spring(I don't remember if there was one in the trans when I took it apart) and I cant find the servo return spring(Again, I don't remember if one was there or not). I spoke with mrvedit earlier about the 34 accumulator spring not being an issue, but what about the servo return spring? I am busy for the next week and a half and have time to order parts, so I'm looking for some opinions on if I should run the springs or not? And where would the best place to buy them?
You need the Servo return spring!, The 4th Accumulator may not have had a spring from the factory, I generally block the accumulator with high stall converters anyway.
Got as far as I could tonight without the 34 accumulator spring(I've decided I want to run one.) I replaced all of the seals in the valve body. Based on the transmission bench videos, it looks like I have a pre-2000 separator plate, and the plate seems to be modified. I was told by the previous owner that the trans had a transgo HD-2 shift kit in it, does this look like a transgo separator plate?
I'm away on business currently so theres no trans work going on, but while I had the time to order parts, I went ahead and ordered the transgo separator plate, 34 accumulator spring, servo return sprign, and bought aluminum pistons for all of the accumulators.
Installed the aluminum pistons in the all of the accumulators, drilled the separator plate, finished up the valve body install, and bolted up the pan today. Unfortunately during moving the valve body, I broke the 32 downshift solenoid connector. It has a pink connector on it.
Looks exactly like this:
Does anyone know if this ATP one would work? I'd prefer to go with summit because their shipping is super quick and my last two shipments from transmissionpartsusa have been messed up by usps.
Doing good bud..if you dont mind what size feed holes did you do?
I followed the largest transgo recommendations (.093). If They are too firm, I'll buy another separator plate and re-install it once the trans is done, but the car sees mostly track use so I don't mind super firm shifts. The instructions are found in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1525213-technical-shift-kit-install-questions.html
09-14-2015, 03:57 PM
