jakeshoe

iTrader: (14)

In addition to the previous thread, where I was accused of being a ********.

Here's the actual emails:

"Jake's Performance
Apr 27

to csmc1013
There are no alternate OD ratios for the 4L80E.
We can definitely help you with a lighter smaller diameter torque converter. Either a 245 mm or 265 mm.
I would leave the 3.90 ratio in the rear. I think it's about ideal for the OEM 4L80E ratios.

Jake




Hello. I have a 1997 BMW e36 328is street car that I will be putting a LS1 engine and 4l80e trans in. Actually I have two, but, the second one I drive is basically identical other than being a 325is. They both have the same gear ratio in the rear (3.90:1). I am a 0 to the speed limit kind of guy. I dont track and I dont really all out race on the street. At 60/65mph, I am running about 2500rpm. Thats not too bad, but, with the 4l80e's 2.48 first gear, I was thinking about gearing down to a 4.11, maybe 4.56. I want to blast out of the hole, get a car length on a car and keep it as best I can until they get so pissed they want to go to the track and race past 55mph, lol. Problem is, 4.11 and or 4.56's are going to make my OD suck. Like I said, it is a street car and I have heavy traffic I deal with, so, up 3rd gear would probably be all I need to put around and or race with. After that, OD would be for cruising the highway. Short story long, is there an overdrive pinion I can use to get a lower .60 or something silly like .55 to keep the rpms at 60mph around 2400rpm?

Also, does someone make a converter for the 4l80e thats not so big and still flashes around 2500rpm? I want the car to feel locked like a t56 I would not mind going to an 11"/12" to lighten up fron 60lbs of inertia. I plan on making around 380-420hp/torque, so, spinning it is not an issue, just dont think I will need the extra HD weight.

Thanks

diGi43k11 021 csmc1013@hotmail.com via bounce.secureserver.net
Jul 14

to Jake's
Hi Jakes, thanks for the replies. Sorry it took me a while to get back to you, I fell off my 4l80e/ls1 horse. Well, that stinks no lower OD, but, I guess worst case scenario is that I yank the 4l80e out and go with the lower 4l60 first and skip 411 gears altogether.

Okay, so, as far as converter goes, I looked up the mm to inches conversion. That comes out to a 10.5" converter or a 9.6" converter. Depending on how new technology is, I think I need to state my case and explain what I am looking for, lol. This car would be a street car. It will be my daily driver to and from work and for spirited driving. I also like to launch from the dig and go 0 to whatever the speed limit is as fast as possible. Not interested in going over the speed limit. I had a 97 SS lt1 a few years back that had a T56 6 speed. That thing had brutal torque stock, least I think it was stock. Might not have been, but, first gear with the clutch all the way out was unusable with a 3.73 rear, up to around a 25mph roll if you just stomped it. Any speed less less than that, while smashing the pedal to the floor, she would just spin the 11" vette posi rubber in the rear. I am building a LS1 with that kind of torque in mind, while hopefully being able to use a little more top end.

The second part of this equation, and contradiction, is gas mileage. Looking for that, who isnt? (okay, that was a quick second part)

So, I am thinking that the T56's first gear is a 2.66 and a 3.73 should equal a 2.48 4l80e and 3:90 rear, or, close to it. Sounds good so far, but, here is the kicker. I am looking for that locked t56 feeling and the nice mileage that went with it.

Being around converters (armchair reader) I have been edumacated that small converters are not efficient, that would kill mileage (least til locked up with a lockup converter), right? Also, to get good low end grunt and efficiency I should be looking at the 12" units? I have never really had to drop the clutch in my SS, for the most part, to get her to run like a bat out of hell, so, with that theory, do I need a stall? I had enough torque in the SS to give me the off the line roller coaster rush. Was enough to throw a girl in the back seat over and pin her legs in the air over her head to where she could not right her self up, heh heh. I am assuming this can be done with an auto and 12" converter? I know that slush box may absorb some ponies, so, maybe not? I do know I hate a high revving stalled car and like a locked feeling.

So, what do you suggest, something new or the same options you first mentioned, lol? This is where your expertise comes in .

Also, I have a 1999 4l80e 4x4 tranny, 1997 3/4 ton 2wd 4l80e tranny with the 5" spline(?) yoke. I need a tail shaft and matching housing for the yoke. Do you have that in stock and how much shipped to 20151? If not, what do I need to look for?

Thanks so much and sorry for the long read.


Chris


diGi43k11 021 csmc1013@hotmail.com via bounce.secureserver.net
Jul 14

to Jake's
Whoops, sorry, also need a price on a basic complete rebuild kit in which you suggest for a 4l80e 1999 4x4 going/converting to a 2RWD. Not a lot of drag strip time if any, mostly cruising and no high performance shift kits. Correction kits are a different animal but prefer no shift kits.

Chris


Jake's Performance
Jul 15

to diGi43k11
Chris,

The 4x4 unit shouldn't have a tailhousing because it mates up to the transfer case.
Did you mean the tailhousing when you convert it over to a 2wd transmission?
How much hp would you be pushing through the 4l80?


diGi43k11 021 csmc1013@hotmail.com via bounce.secureserver.net
Jul 15

to Jake's
Hi Jake, correct. My 4x4 has no tail shaft housing. I need a matching 2wd tailshaft and housing to go into the 1999 4x4 I have to convert it. If you have one (preferably the 5"spline unit to match my 1997 3/4 ton vans yoke) how much?

I will be making no more than 450RWHP

Can I make the 4l80e a full manual in 1-2-3 and full auto in D ?

Chris


Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2015 15:36:30 -0500
Subject: Re: 4L80E


Jake's Performance
Jul 16

to diGi43k11
You would need a Stage 2 4L80 rebuild kit which is $700.00 not including shipping. I am sure that I have a 2wd output shaft and tailhousing. The output shaft would be $50.00 and same for the tailhousing. When going full manual with our Manual Control Box it is full manual all the time. There is no option for that with the box.


diGi43k11 021 csmc1013@hotmail.com via bounce.secureserver.net
Aug 4

to Jake's
Hi Jake. Do you have the same kit with just the clutches, steels, gaskets, bearings and filers/screens? Also, which "correction" kit do you suggest, Sonnax, Transgo, Superior, or...?

Thanks




Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:06:17 -0500


Jake's Performance
Aug 5

to diGi43k11
We don't sell a lesser kit. The reason is because rebuilding an electronic transmission also requires replacing the electronic parts.
In the past, when we sold kits without all the components, we would end up having to mail out other individual pieces, sometimes multiple times. Customer finds they need other parts that were in our Stage 2 kit.
We determined that we would sell it all or nothing, and those that are looking to shortcut the build can go elsewhere.

We don't use any correction kits. We do our own mods.



diGi43k11 021 csmc1013@hotmail.com via bounce.secureserver.net
Aug 10

to Jake's
I understand your frustration with some people, as I am in the kiss *** industry. I also understand replacing electronic parts is always a good thing, but, I dont need the electronics, none of it! I do laptop printed circuit board rebuilding/repairs and fully understand how electronics go, if they ever go bad. I have already sourced the electronics needed and then ran across your site. Only thing I need now is everything but the electronics.

If ever you change your mind, let me know. "

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

At this time, I will ask that no new threads be created on this topic by either party.

Thanks,

-ADMIN.