What stall do you recommend. ....... im a newbie
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What stall do you recommend. ....... im a newbie I bought a 98 Camaro ls1 a4 55,000 miles I just did long tube headers, ory, fast intake, nick williams tb,a tune an b&m trans cooler. I'm new to cars so I'm looking for advise .. I would like to do a stall in my 4l60e I drive the car alot an strip a few times a year so I want a stall that will be street able but still give me great numbers at the track.. will I need replace any weak components with the stall? And what would be a recommended stall ? Keep in mind down the road when I get more miles on the car I will do heads an cam any advise is appreciated
I bought a 98 Camaro ls1 a4 55,000 miles I just did long tube headers, ory, fast intake, nick williams tb,a tune an b&m trans cooler. I'm new to cars so I'm looking for advise .. I would like to do a stall in my 4l60e I drive the car alot an strip a few times a year so I want a stall that will be street able but still give me great numbers at the track.. will I need replace any weak components with the stall? And what would be a recommended stall ? Keep in mind down the road when I get more miles on the car I will do heads an cam any advise is appreciated
A yank ss3600 will be a great street able stall
A ss4000 would be even better for the track and to me is still drive able on the street. But tolerances are different for everybody..
I like fast race cars so I sacrifice drivability if it means I won't lose a race lol
But if you do heads/cam later it will want a big stall like a 4000
This is all my opinion so do your research
As in post #2,a Yank SS3600 but because of future plans,a Yank SS4000. With either one,an aftermarket tranny fluid cooler.
What's the current rear end gearing,2.73(GU2) or 3.23(GU5) ? 2.73s' typically had a steel driveshaft and a plastic tab in the shifter selector preventing manual selection of 1st.
What's the current rear end gearing,2.73(GU2) or 3.23(GU5) ? 2.73s' typically had a steel driveshaft and a plastic tab in the shifter selector preventing manual selection of 1st.
As others have said 3600 minimum. I had the SS3600 and it was a very tight feeling converter with 3.73s and when I had to go back to a stock 3.23 rear it felt a bit looser.
As Burken said with more mods the 4000 stall would be the better choice but it will depend on what you can live with. I ditched the 3600 for a 4200 stall FWIW
As Burken said with more mods the 4000 stall would be the better choice but it will depend on what you can live with. I ditched the 3600 for a 4200 stall FWIW
I have a ptc 4000 and to me it's very streetable. It doesn't bother me one bit. This is also my first performance auto, as I have been t56 for a while. Before I made a decision I read thread after thread after thread. I ended up going with the 4000 for now. But in the future when I pull it out next time it will be more. Don't be scared of going to big I guess. It's all depending on how YOU want your car to be and what YOU don't mind dealing with.
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I don't care for the feel of a 4000 stall on the street. I felt is looses that positive feel of the gas pedal being responsive to a little jab of the throttle. The best feeling stall I have ever driven on the street is my current Circle D 245 MM 2C (3200 RPM). However, I bet the 3C (3500-3600) would feel great too.
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great advice above , 2 things I would add make sure its a quality stall like the brands mentioned all 3600-4000 stalls are not created equal ( the people with yanks always seem to post that they are tight when driven normal). The other thing is just about every manufacturer offers 1 free restall most people go conservative then restall , why take it apart ? start with 4k stall and if you don't like it restall lower or deal with it till you do your heads cam
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
It depends upon your rear end ratio and how much extra slippage/noise you will tolerate on the street.. Assuming you can tolerate a moderate amount, I would say:
3.23 rear => 3200 stall
3.42 rear => 3600 stall
3.73 rear => 4000 stall
Stick with the Yank, CircleD and FTI brands mentioned above. Absolutely avoid the under $4509 converters from e.g. TCI which are super loose on the street.
3.23 rear => 3200 stall
3.42 rear => 3600 stall
3.73 rear => 4000 stall
Stick with the Yank, CircleD and FTI brands mentioned above. Absolutely avoid the under $4509 converters from e.g. TCI which are super loose on the street.
If you are just street driving it with occasional bursts the stock Trans can last awhile especially under stockish hp..
But if you plan to go to the track more often or beat on it on a regular basis then yes the stock 4l60e will hate you after awhile like any stock part that's being pushed..
OP,
I had a 3200 stall and now have a 4000 stall. Definitely go 4000 stall. Im running a circle D 5c converter and it drives fine on the street.
A 4000 stall is not too much or unbearable. You will regret going with a small converter.
Honestly, if you can i would suggest upgrading your tranny and install converter the same time. Spend the money on a stronger trans.
I had a 3200 stall and now have a 4000 stall. Definitely go 4000 stall. Im running a circle D 5c converter and it drives fine on the street.
A 4000 stall is not too much or unbearable. You will regret going with a small converter.
Honestly, if you can i would suggest upgrading your tranny and install converter the same time. Spend the money on a stronger trans.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
If not already, a large aftermarket trans cooler is critical with a high stall converter.
Lots of members here have beat on their stock 4L60E for 100,000+++ miles:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...led-4l60e.html
A quality shift kit may increase your trans longevity, especially since it still has low miles. Only the Transgo HD2 or Sonnax Performance Pack should be considered; certainly not the B&M shift kit. With the HD2, you only need to install the portion that does not involve internal parts.
If you decide to forgo the shift kit now, installing the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve will give you some benefits of the shift kits, costs under $30 and is easy to install - after dropping the pan, it takes about 3 minutes needing only a pair of snap ring pliers. Even with the Transgo HD2 kit, I prefer the Sonnax boost valve.
Lots of members here have beat on their stock 4L60E for 100,000+++ miles:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...led-4l60e.html
A quality shift kit may increase your trans longevity, especially since it still has low miles. Only the Transgo HD2 or Sonnax Performance Pack should be considered; certainly not the B&M shift kit. With the HD2, you only need to install the portion that does not involve internal parts.
If you decide to forgo the shift kit now, installing the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve will give you some benefits of the shift kits, costs under $30 and is easy to install - after dropping the pan, it takes about 3 minutes needing only a pair of snap ring pliers. Even with the Transgo HD2 kit, I prefer the Sonnax boost valve.