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I just tore down my 4l80e to replace the output shaft, and my direct clutches look burnt. I have an flt 4l80e with 1,500 miles on it and I'm making 500 crank hp.
Anyway, the rest of the clutches in my trans look good. What do you think could have caused them to burn up so fast?
Do you know if it was properly dual fed? Was there a sealing ring missing from the second from the top rung of the center support? Is the hold directly to the right of the center support bolt plugged in some way?
I had asked flt to dual feed the trans, and they did just like you said, the one sealing ring is missing, and the hole next to the center support bolt is blocked.
Is your third accumulator still active? Sometimes the plastic piston breaks causing a leak in the circuit. Also check for debris on the 3rd/Rev. directional checkball in the valve body. Clinebarger is also correct, it is one of the most common. Since the direct drum is rotating 2X engine RPM in low gear, it centrifugally applies the clutches causing them to drag. A .055"-.062" hole should be drilled on the drum.
Is your third accumulator still active? Sometimes the plastic piston breaks causing a leak in the circuit. Also check for debris on the 3rd/Rev. directional checkball in the valve body. Clinebarger is also correct, it is one of the most common. Since the direct drum is rotating 2X engine RPM in low gear, it centrifugally applies the clutches causing them to drag. A .055"-.062" hole should be drilled on the drum.
I don't know about the third accumulator, I'll have to take a close look. Where would I drill a hole in the direct drum? Under the piston? Or where the clutches and steels ride?
Since the direct drum is rotating 2X engine RPM in low gear, it centrifugally applies the clutches causing them to drag. A .055"-.062" hole should be drilled on the drum.
Not even close. About 85% of engine rpm in low gear using a stock ratio.
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burnt 4l80e direct clutches 
