Strawberry milkshake - options
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 172
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Strawberry milkshake - options After some opinions.
I've just dropped the 4L80E out of my '80 Camaro, to do a bit of prep work for installing my motor.
Nice and freshly rebuilt about 12 months ago. I had it behind my SBC to test run it and check the controller was working. Had it running for 20 mins tops (about 10 months ago now) and shifted it through the gears with the car up on jack stands.
Drained the fluid today only to find it was like strawberry milkshake - got water in it from somewhere. I blame the used converter as there's no other way that water could have got in there. Lesson learned, don't gamble on used parts....
So I've pulled the pan, valve body off and I've decided I am going to strip it right down again to clean it out.
I know that exposure to water can destroy frictions...
This was completely freshly built with billet input shaft and forward hub, all alto powerpacks, valve body and pump mods etc as I was intending to put a turbo or N2O on the motor at some point.
So I have 3 options:
1. Replace all of the frictions with new Alto Power packs - expensive!
2. Replace all of the frictions with Borg Warner HE or similar - not so expensive!
3. Clean it all out and put it all back together and cross my fingers - cost of a gasket set
Given it's not actually been used... what would you do?
I've just dropped the 4L80E out of my '80 Camaro, to do a bit of prep work for installing my motor.
Nice and freshly rebuilt about 12 months ago. I had it behind my SBC to test run it and check the controller was working. Had it running for 20 mins tops (about 10 months ago now) and shifted it through the gears with the car up on jack stands.
Drained the fluid today only to find it was like strawberry milkshake - got water in it from somewhere. I blame the used converter as there's no other way that water could have got in there. Lesson learned, don't gamble on used parts....
So I've pulled the pan, valve body off and I've decided I am going to strip it right down again to clean it out.
I know that exposure to water can destroy frictions...
This was completely freshly built with billet input shaft and forward hub, all alto powerpacks, valve body and pump mods etc as I was intending to put a turbo or N2O on the motor at some point.
So I have 3 options:
1. Replace all of the frictions with new Alto Power packs - expensive!
2. Replace all of the frictions with Borg Warner HE or similar - not so expensive!
3. Clean it all out and put it all back together and cross my fingers - cost of a gasket set
Given it's not actually been used... what would you do?
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,047
Likes: 714
From: Poplarville, MS
I would flush the fluid until all of the contaminated fluid is out and run it. The worse that can happen is that you would have to pull it down and the place the frictions. I don’t know what you have to lose by trying to save it. If you do decide to change the frictions I would go with the Borg Warner HE. I think they are a better friction.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
I've asked transtar for a quote on the parts I need. I've decided that it would be sensible to just replace the frictions - but I am not going to use the Alto Power Packs - seems most reputable builders say that high energy type frictions are plenty good enough.
I also have the standard steels and frictions that came from the transmission before I rebuilt it and I will be using some of those as they are all new anyway.
The plan is:
Add an extra plate to the direct clutch by changing the steels to 0.060 thick, and keeping the frictions at 0.080. Then I can fit 6 of each instead of 5. Raybstos GPZ frictions
HE type frictions (Borg Warner) and standard steels in intermediate and forward clutch.
Standard OD and overrun clutches
New bands, already have wide front one fitted.
I might also fit a billet intermediate shaft as well, I already have a billet input one. Is it worth changing the intermediate too?
Job done
I also have the standard steels and frictions that came from the transmission before I rebuilt it and I will be using some of those as they are all new anyway.
The plan is:
Add an extra plate to the direct clutch by changing the steels to 0.060 thick, and keeping the frictions at 0.080. Then I can fit 6 of each instead of 5. Raybstos GPZ frictions
HE type frictions (Borg Warner) and standard steels in intermediate and forward clutch.
Standard OD and overrun clutches
New bands, already have wide front one fitted.
I might also fit a billet intermediate shaft as well, I already have a billet input one. Is it worth changing the intermediate too?
Job done
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