4l80e rachet shifter
#1
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4l80e rachet shifter
any one used the B&M Stealth Pro Ratchet Shifter with a 4l80e and a reverse manual valve body b&m says it wont work few guys i know think it should since its just ratcheting looking for some other input
if not ill just go tci outlaw but really wanting that rachet shifter
if not ill just go tci outlaw but really wanting that rachet shifter
#3
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any one used the B&M Stealth Pro Ratchet Shifter with a 4l80e and a reverse manual valve body b&m says it wont work few guys i know think it should since its just ratcheting looking for some other input
if not ill just go tci outlaw but really wanting that rachet shifter
if not ill just go tci outlaw but really wanting that rachet shifter
I would suggest a PPP shifter...
#4
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what do u mean cut the bracket? to make it get a better angle or somthing?
and yea i looked at the ppp thats not somthing i want this isnt a all out drag car or a bracket car is just a 408 TT in a s13
and i think a gate shifter may end up to far forward and backwards is why i wasnt thinking about getting one
and yea i looked at the ppp thats not somthing i want this isnt a all out drag car or a bracket car is just a 408 TT in a s13
and i think a gate shifter may end up to far forward and backwards is why i wasnt thinking about getting one
#5
TECH Veteran
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Kind of surprised the shifter wouldn't work-I have used the Pro ratchet on 4 sps., but normal pattern-the rooster tail locks the valve in place for the gears, so I cant see why it matters forward or rev pattern.
I know if the cable isn't attached to the shifter housing the right way, it creates problems. (cable tab inside/outside the housing)
There was some disc. a while back, ends up there are a couple diff shifter shafts used on 80E's, caused the shifter arm to be further back
I know if the cable isn't attached to the shifter housing the right way, it creates problems. (cable tab inside/outside the housing)
There was some disc. a while back, ends up there are a couple diff shifter shafts used on 80E's, caused the shifter arm to be further back
#7
TECH Apprentice
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This is how I tested it:
1. Put the transmission in 1st gear.
2. Put the shifter in 1st gear.
3. Adjust the cable so that the pin slips into the transmission arm smoothly.
4. Rachet the shifter forward to Neutral
5. Pull the pin back out of the transmission lever and see if the lever is actually correctly positioned in the internal detent inside the transmission.
With this test I found that if you adjust it correctly for 1st, it isn't centered correctly in the Neutral detent.
I tried the same test starting in Reverse, and racheting the shifter to 1st, and the error was even worse.
So I cut up a different lever arm and played around with the position until I got "better" results... (certainly not perfect, but it seems to be close enough), and also the ratchet function doesn't work right going from Reverse to Park.
Jake may be able to confirm that I am not the only one who has found this problem...
If I wasn't so cheap I would have got a PPP shifter a long time ago...
1. Put the transmission in 1st gear.
2. Put the shifter in 1st gear.
3. Adjust the cable so that the pin slips into the transmission arm smoothly.
4. Rachet the shifter forward to Neutral
5. Pull the pin back out of the transmission lever and see if the lever is actually correctly positioned in the internal detent inside the transmission.
With this test I found that if you adjust it correctly for 1st, it isn't centered correctly in the Neutral detent.
I tried the same test starting in Reverse, and racheting the shifter to 1st, and the error was even worse.
So I cut up a different lever arm and played around with the position until I got "better" results... (certainly not perfect, but it seems to be close enough), and also the ratchet function doesn't work right going from Reverse to Park.
Jake may be able to confirm that I am not the only one who has found this problem...
If I wasn't so cheap I would have got a PPP shifter a long time ago...
what do u mean cut the bracket? to make it get a better angle or somthing?
and yea i looked at the ppp thats not somthing i want this isnt a all out drag car or a bracket car is just a 408 TT in a s13
and i think a gate shifter may end up to far forward and backwards is why i wasnt thinking about getting one
and yea i looked at the ppp thats not somthing i want this isnt a all out drag car or a bracket car is just a 408 TT in a s13
and i think a gate shifter may end up to far forward and backwards is why i wasnt thinking about getting one
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#8
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
The B & M's are not as accurate as they used to be, but still close
As said, some of the major problems are the cable is not attached to the shifter housing the correct way-as I remember, the bolt tab goes to the outside of the shifter, not inside-the first one I ever installed I mounted the tab in side, couldn't get it to line up, so I modified the bracket to make it work-next one I installed I read the instructions, lol
As said, some of the major problems are the cable is not attached to the shifter housing the correct way-as I remember, the bolt tab goes to the outside of the shifter, not inside-the first one I ever installed I mounted the tab in side, couldn't get it to line up, so I modified the bracket to make it work-next one I installed I read the instructions, lol
#9
10 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
im running the stealth pro ratchet on my 4l80 with no issues. I discussed this shifter with multiple b&m reps and they all said it would not work... The shifter will work just fine. as said above just remove the pin that's in it and that will allow it to work with a 4 speed. but that will all be in the directions with the shifter. I used the 4l80 install kit with mine, I did not have to make my own piece like the fellow above. hope this helps