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High Performance 4L60E Build Thread

Old Oct 8, 2016 | 09:35 AM
  #21  
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Where did you source the tools from that cheap? I have looked on Ebay, but have not had much luck.
Thanks again!
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 07:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by rpturbo
Where did you source the tools from that cheap? I have looked on Ebay, but have not had much luck.
Thanks again!
Are you talking about the spring compressors or the teflon ring tool for the shafts?

If you're handy enough to take on rebuilding a transmission, you can make your own spring compressor pretty easily. As for the teflon resizer/compressor, I used a funnel to resize and thin acrylic plastic (Hobby Lobby or Walmart) and hose clamps to compress them. I don't want to derail Texas Patriot's thread with pictures and stuff, but you can look at the "Another 4l60e rebuilding thread" in the stickies to see how I did it.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #23  
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I knew about the funnel trick, but the compressor tools he has, for $25 isn't worth my time building.

I will check out your thread though too, thanks!
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 05:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rpturbo
Where did you source the tools from that cheap? I have looked on Ebay, but have not had much luck.
Thanks again!
Turbo, dont know if I can post links in here but here is who I got all my tools from they are called Street Side Tools

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Rear-Clut...-/190665693215
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 10:37 PM
  #25  
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Its about time I finished part two of this thread. Just an update for everyone, This transmission has been in the vehicle for about a month now with plenty of hard driving and abuse. I have to say the Smart-Tech Input Drum is absolutely awesome. The 2-3 shift is now just as crisp and quick as the 1-2.

Lets get on with part two, there aren't quite as many pictures as part 1 but there are some useful tips in here.

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Since the Smart-Tech Drum comes with a better rear stator support bushing we need to remove the old one. I have read quite a few times on here about people struggling to remove this bushing. What I am showing here is my method, it works well for me.

If you have a small 3 jaw gear puller, you can reverse the jaws so they can grab the lip of the bushing from the inside.

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When you place the puller in the stator tube, use the threaded center pin on the gear puller to spread the jaws and engage the teeth on the edge of the bushing. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN HERE, too much pressure could damage the bushing bore as the bushing comes out.

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Then I place the pump into the press and drop a deep wall socket inside the stator tube which fits closely to the I.D. of the stator tube.

Then just press the bushing out with the press. It come out very easily.

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Next I start the new bushing from Sonnax in its bore. Place the pump back in the press to finish driving it in.

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Once the bushing is flush with the back of the stator tube, I use the old bushing to barley set the new bushing below flush.

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Here is the bushing fully installed.

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Pump body with new slide spring installed, ready for rotor an vanes.

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Boost valve and pressure regulator assembly with updated spring.

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Pump halves together loosely with pump alignment tool.

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Sonnax Billet Servos

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Servo Bore

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This servo pin has already been shortened and servo travel adjusted. READ YOUR SONNAX INSTRUCTIONS

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Case lubricated and ready for pump install.

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Don't forget the pump to case gasket.

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Pump installed

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Pinless accumulator

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Separator Plate

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Don't forget this check ball in the case!

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Stiffener Plate loosely installed

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1-2 Accumulator housing with pinless piston.

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Valve body installed and solenoids.

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Last edited by Texas Patriot; Nov 1, 2016 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 11:02 PM
  #26  
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Pan installed and tail housing.

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Ready to go with the exception of the bell housing.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 12:27 AM
  #27  
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What a treat to see such nice photos of mostly/all high performance parts!

Thank you, Texas Patriot.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 05:27 AM
  #28  
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Very nice pictures are awesome great job man.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #29  
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WOW!! Another great set of pictures and notes of details not to forget.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 07:45 PM
  #30  
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Thank you guys for the kind words
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 08:17 PM
  #31  
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Thanks for posting the tips you used too, like removing the bearing.

I'm sure others DIY guys will find it beneficial.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 10:14 PM
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Did you ever put a parts list together?
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 04:23 PM
  #33  
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I thought on the pinless accumulator, you had to drive 2 ball bearing into where the pin goes? I know I was told to do this on mine, but I don't see that done on yours? Again, great job!!! Thanks for the inspiration, and helping me make the leap!
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 05:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rpturbo
I thought on the pinless accumulator, you had to drive 2 ball bearing into where the pin goes? I know I was told to do this on mine, but I don't see that done on yours? Again, great job!!! Thanks for the inspiration, and helping me make the leap!
Yes, the pinless accumulator kit comes with two steel ***** which must be pushed into the hole where the pin was; else there will be a significant leak. Just a tiny detail for which there is no picture.
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Old Oct 9, 2017 | 09:22 PM
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Nice write up!!
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 09:51 AM
  #36  
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Texas Patrol, that's a fantastic write up with pictures. Thank you for taking the time and sharing.
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Old May 5, 2020 | 10:35 AM
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Nice thread.

Did you do your checks to check for leaking circuits and such? Like 3rd accumulator? Ect
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