I have a 2002 ws6 auto. 3.23 gear car. My car has a slp lid, and a slp dual dual catback. My future mods are texas speed 1 3/4 lt headers, tsp ory, 160 thermostat, ported stock throttle body and a tune. My car ran a 13.4 103mph with the lid and catback on street tires with a 11-15 mph headwind. My goal is to get 12.5s or lower. Will the yank ss3200 help me reach these goals or do I need the ss3600. How much difference would it be et wise between the ss3200 and ss3600.

 

Go with the 3600. After its in for a couple of weeks you won't even notice it until you nail the gas

 

If you are already thinking about the SS 3600 converter I recommend going with it. The differences between the 3200 and 3600 are minimal in terms of drivability. Go 3600 you won't regret it.

 

How much does the ss 3200 normally improve times at the track compared to the ss3600 with bolt ons? I might have a cam installed in the future. I heard that would make the ss3200 have more stall.

 

"Drivability" is subjective. I have a SS3600 and it's tight and drives like stock (compared to a PT4000 I had) only reason I change was for nitrous. I would consider a SS4000 for a bolt-on - soon to be cammed car.

 

This discussion belongs here. But I think everybody has said what needs to be said.

That being said, there was no driveability or performance difference between my previous 3000 stall and my Yank SS3600. There won't be much between the 3200 and 3600.

 

Step up to the ss4000... seriously..

Never rode or drove in a stalled car. first stall was a 3200. drove great, hit okay. than swapped my 3200 to a 4000 stall and love it. it drives just as good but hits harder and continues pulling..

 

So will the ss3200 be able to get me in the 12.5 range at the track or better with drag radials.

 

What kind of short time with those et's?

103 MPH'S is indicative of a low 13 1/4 mile time which you are running already with a lid and a cat back.
That must be some serious head wind or I bet you 60 foot time is in the 2's.

Get some consistent short times in the 1.7-1.8 zone and then whittle down from their.

My suggestion is to start with drag radials or slicks first. There is no magic formula thats why they have a test and tune night.

I assume you are trying to maximize your et in a street car.

 

I'll stick my neck out and say No. An SS3200 or SS3600 converter might reduce your ET by .4 seconds. Don't know how much headers will help. IMHO you will need a cam swap, valve springs, etc to get into the low 12s.

 

Not sure about the SS3200, but myself and others have gotten older Yank ST/SY3500 cars into the 12.4-12.6 range with only minor bolt-ons (lid, catback, etc.) That is, of course, with drag radials or better.

Your 103mph trap speed is low for a lid & catback car, not sure if that's all due to headwind/track conditions or if there are other issues holding the car back (tired engine, low fuel pressure, slipping trans, etc.) So it's hard to predict what your ET change might be as you don't appear to be running optimally at present. But you can usually expect mid-12s from a basic bolt-on A4 LS1 with ~3500 stall speed that's running at it's best and getting optimal traction.

FWIW, I would do the SS3600. ET reduction is often somewhere between 0.50 and 0.80 seconds for such a converter, depending on traction and other vehicle specific factors.

 

I did the exact same thing and had the same experience. I recently cut a 1.45 60ft with my ss4k on motor. H/C/I LS1 off the foot brake. Get a good tire and they will bring your 1/4 times down quite a bit.

 

My car went from running 13.20 to 12.50 with just a converter change, a underdrive pulley and nittos. Yank 3,000 was my first converter with 3.23 gears. The pulley probably added .10

 

My car put out 298.4 305.0 tq. sae correction factor at the rear wheels on a dyno jet dyno 1 year ago. That was bone stock with 73,000 miles and new ac delco irridium plugs, fuel filter, and gm performance red wires. Only think different now is slp lid, slp smooth bellows, and slp dual dual catback. Transmision shifts good. I can sometimes chirp second on certain types of pavement. I haven't been back to the dyno with the new mods yet. My eighth mile time was 8.65 83.2 mph with a 2.01 60ft time with a 13.41 103.4 mph 1/4. Car now has 74,000 miles.

 

My car ran nearly identically to yours with just a GMMG catback, 3.42's, and good air. A converter & LT's got me into the high twelves. Going from Nittos to MT drag radials knocked me down to the mid-twelves as I could flash and dead hook. So the converter, LT's and DR's knocked a full second off from where you are.

 

So should my car be faster than 13.41 103.4 mph with the lid and cat back exhaust. I thought 298.4 305tq. sae was about average for a 02 ls1 ws6 auto bone stock. I would think a lid and slp dual dual would put me over 300rwhp. I've read that some cars that dynoed less than me was running quicker or about the same. Guess im kinda confused as my why car didn't run quicker. It was on street tires.

 

Im just confused as why my trap speed was low when it should be putting out over 300rwhp. I wonder if my car is just not a strong car like some other ones are.

 

Imo there is nothing wrong with your trap speed. Add another mph with that head wind.

Any idea what the d.a was?

I trapped 101 mph in my 100% bone stock 2.73 A4 car in around 2300-2500 ft da.

 

Da was 1200. Temp was 80 or little more. I live in Ga.

 

Your car looks good dude. I love the color. I know a guy that has a 98 ta also. His is red orange metallic I believe. The 98s had some cool colors back then. Kinda like the old mopar muscle cars back in the day.