80E dipstick tube
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80E dipstick tube I'm getting closer to installing my 80E in my nova and the 1 thing missing was
the dipstick.
I recently bought another core for my son and it came with one but the tube was kinked.
I'd like to use the dipstick but would like to get a tube that doesn't point straight up.
The # on the dipstick is 15996922
Are all the dipsticks the same length and they just use different tubes?
I just don't want to burn my rebuilt trans up due to a incorrect fluid level.
Thanks
Chris
the dipstick.
I recently bought another core for my son and it came with one but the tube was kinked.
I'd like to use the dipstick but would like to get a tube that doesn't point straight up.
The # on the dipstick is 15996922
Are all the dipsticks the same length and they just use different tubes?
I just don't want to burn my rebuilt trans up due to a incorrect fluid level.
Thanks
Chris
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From: North Jersey
As a transmission builder I would prefer to see all flexible dipsticks go in the trash.
Good quality locking dipsticks are available in long or short tube, for LS engines, conventional, and other combos.
Good quality locking dipsticks are available in long or short tube, for LS engines, conventional, and other combos.
I used an Allstar tube but it required the bolt tab to be cut off and rewelded for perfect position. The actual level on the stick was right on though with full just above the pan rail.
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Instead I bought an electrician's pipe bender at Lowes for $29, bent my stock dipstick tube straight and then bent it into the shape I needed. (And then painted it.)
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I bought a Lokar, but after examining it, I didn't quite put in the trash, but threw it into the Misc-Trans parts bin.
Instead I bought an electrician's pipe bender at Lowes for $29, bent my stock dipstick tube straight and then bent it into the shape I needed. (And then painted it.)
Instead I bought an electrician's pipe bender at Lowes for $29, bent my stock dipstick tube straight and then bent it into the shape I needed. (And then painted it.)
Thanks
One other thing I'm concerned about is my Nova has a rake to it and I'm worried that will skew the reading on the dipstick.
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Even after installing the dipstick it's best to pull the pan and actually mark the dipstick. Full is 1/4 inch above the pan rail. View some of Jakes you tube videos and it talks in detail about this
Usually the problem with the Lokar DS is when the fluid goes in, there is no room for air to come out-and who knows how accurate it is,
80E's like to be full, I have watched the pressure as I filled one
I have modified stock tubes/sticks, make sure the fill ends up in the same place afterwards. I wanted to look at the Mad Man stick, just haven't.
I find it easier to cut the mtg tabs off, then just use an Adell clamp up by the intake
80E's like to be full, I have watched the pressure as I filled one
I have modified stock tubes/sticks, make sure the fill ends up in the same place afterwards. I wanted to look at the Mad Man stick, just haven't.
I find it easier to cut the mtg tabs off, then just use an Adell clamp up by the intake
Last edited by mrvedit; Nov 12, 2016 at 08:00 AM. Reason: Typo
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Usually the problem with the Lokar DS is when the fluid goes in, there is no room for air to come out-and who knows how accurate it is,
80E's like to be full, I have watched the pressure as I filled one
I have modified stock tubes/sticks, make sure the fill ends up in the same place afterwards. I wanted to look at the Mad Man stick, just haven't.
I find it easier to cuy the mtg tabs off, then just use an Adell clamp up by the intake
80E's like to be full, I have watched the pressure as I filled one
I have modified stock tubes/sticks, make sure the fill ends up in the same place afterwards. I wanted to look at the Mad Man stick, just haven't.
I find it easier to cuy the mtg tabs off, then just use an Adell clamp up by the intake
My car has a stink bug rake to it so I'm a little concerned about the level mark.
You can see what I'm talking about in the vid in my sig.
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As Nathaninwa mentioned it is a good idea to pull the pan to verify that the full mark is accurate.
To get started, add ATF until it reads about one inch above the full mark with the engine OFF.
Last get everything warmed up and level the car using jacks or parking on a sloped driveway, and add more ATF to reach the Hot-Full mark.
To get started, add ATF until it reads about one inch above the full mark with the engine OFF.
Last get everything warmed up and level the car using jacks or parking on a sloped driveway, and add more ATF to reach the Hot-Full mark.
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Ok great ideas.
One thing tho.
While the car is in the air, pan off doesn't the tube go pretty far into the trans?
How am I supposed to verify it when the mark is up in the tube?
Make a mark on the tube where the top of the pan is then remove tube/dipstick and measure tip of stick back to the mark on tube and transfer that mark?
One thing tho.
While the car is in the air, pan off doesn't the tube go pretty far into the trans?
How am I supposed to verify it when the mark is up in the tube?
Make a mark on the tube where the top of the pan is then remove tube/dipstick and measure tip of stick back to the mark on tube and transfer that mark?
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The bottom of the dipstick will be visible. Measure from that to 1/4" above the bottom of the trans case, e.g. 1-1/2". Pull out the dipstick and confirm that measurement corresponds to the Full mark. No need to remove the tube.
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This is for tubes that might not go in all the way. Especially after a new seal has been installed. I've installed an Allstar unit and now a Lokar unit and each would not quite sit down all the way and I needed to remark the sticks I bet it's my install, but even an 1/8 can make a difference
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