4L60E Rebuild after 3-4 Clutch Failure, still failing
09-16-2018, 09:29 AM
#101
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4l60e 3 4 clutch problems Hey, I want to say thank you to everyone who has been helping me along in troubleshooting my transmission. In the end, it must have been simply just that check ball that I was talking about. Although I did make some other adjustments on the second try, I really think that that was the major issue. The truck is working and shifting and driving now and I'm a very happy man.
Thanks again all, I appreciated all the help and input.
Thanks again all, I appreciated all the help and input.
When I start the road test, 1 and 2 gear engage with no problem, then the REV goes up a little bit and the 3 engage at the fist, the the 4 but with a slippery feeling and a few milles ahead no 3 and 4 again, feels like neutral position.
What do you check the last time you find the problem?
thanks a lot
Alejandro
09-16-2018, 03:48 PM
#102
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Hey Alejandro,
I am not an expert on all 4L60E problems, but I can give you what I think might be some things you should check. First of all, if you are taking it apart again, make sure those Teflon rings on the input drum, reverse drum and front pump are seating properly. Do the air test as shown in the Sonnax "The Sure Cure Kit" guide on the last page (which I will post here). This will ensure each clutch is engaging like it should (3-4, overrun, forward and reverse, the low is at the rear of the transmission). It could be a problem along the shaft where the seals are seated, a problem where the pump and input drum shaft meet each other, or a problem in the front pump.
Another check I would do is when you are removing it, look at the check ***** very closely when you take the valve body off. It is possible your separator plate may have been impounded too much that the check ball might be getting stuck (which would cause it to shift and burn the clutches) or it might have gone through the plate. The only real way to be sure about an old separator plate no longer being a problem in terms of wear is just getting a new one that is much sturdier. Sure, you can pound the plate back in around the holes, but too much material might have been lost.
Lastly, your shift solenoids could potentially be bad if you haven't replaced them; they may have burnt up with the overheating transmission (in my case, I was running low on fluid constantly, so this was very likely for me). This is the easiest fix since you only need to drop the pan. I'm not sure how to test the electronic systems, at least with the equipment I have. Someone else will have to give you more information. I know more advanced scanners can detect a fault in these, so if you have access to one, try that.
Definitely take pictures and post them along the way if you take it apart again. It can only help me (and other more advanced experts) to really pinpoint your problem. As you can see from this whole thread, it took me a lot of asking questions and troubleshooting like it should for anyone attempting a transmission rebuild.
In short, check your shift solenoids before tearing everything apart. If you have no luck, check the Teflon Seals and check ***** during teardown and we can go from there. Post pictures and questions as you have them.
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...f?v=1532981927
I am not an expert on all 4L60E problems, but I can give you what I think might be some things you should check. First of all, if you are taking it apart again, make sure those Teflon rings on the input drum, reverse drum and front pump are seating properly. Do the air test as shown in the Sonnax "The Sure Cure Kit" guide on the last page (which I will post here). This will ensure each clutch is engaging like it should (3-4, overrun, forward and reverse, the low is at the rear of the transmission). It could be a problem along the shaft where the seals are seated, a problem where the pump and input drum shaft meet each other, or a problem in the front pump.
Another check I would do is when you are removing it, look at the check ***** very closely when you take the valve body off. It is possible your separator plate may have been impounded too much that the check ball might be getting stuck (which would cause it to shift and burn the clutches) or it might have gone through the plate. The only real way to be sure about an old separator plate no longer being a problem in terms of wear is just getting a new one that is much sturdier. Sure, you can pound the plate back in around the holes, but too much material might have been lost.
Lastly, your shift solenoids could potentially be bad if you haven't replaced them; they may have burnt up with the overheating transmission (in my case, I was running low on fluid constantly, so this was very likely for me). This is the easiest fix since you only need to drop the pan. I'm not sure how to test the electronic systems, at least with the equipment I have. Someone else will have to give you more information. I know more advanced scanners can detect a fault in these, so if you have access to one, try that.
Definitely take pictures and post them along the way if you take it apart again. It can only help me (and other more advanced experts) to really pinpoint your problem. As you can see from this whole thread, it took me a lot of asking questions and troubleshooting like it should for anyone attempting a transmission rebuild.
In short, check your shift solenoids before tearing everything apart. If you have no luck, check the Teflon Seals and check ***** during teardown and we can go from there. Post pictures and questions as you have them.
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...f?v=1532981927
05-07-2020, 01:13 AM
#103
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Hey, I want to say thank you to everyone who has been helping me along in troubleshooting my transmission. In the end, it must have been simply just that check ball that I was talking about. Although I did make some other adjustments on the second try, I really think that that was the major issue. The truck is working and shifting and driving now and I'm a very happy man.
Thanks again all, I appreciated all the help and input.
Thanks again all, I appreciated all the help and input.
hello, I know this thread is from 2017 but do you remember exactly what your issue was? Was it the check ball or was it because you added the extra steel and friction??? Thanks..
05-07-2020, 06:50 PM
#104
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I think it was the check ball. It wasn't in the right spot, so it wasn't possible for the pressure to build up when the ball closed the passage (if it was in the right spot) to do the gear change from 2-3.
05-07-2020, 07:46 PM
#105
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It was nice and gracious for the OP (NikoKourm) to answer a post on a long-dead thread, but I'm sure the many contributors to this thread will not be happy getting notifications that this old thread was updated.
Therefore I am closing it. Ricocruz you are very welcome to start a new thread if you need help.
Therefore I am closing it. Ricocruz you are very welcome to start a new thread if you need help.
