locking vs non-locking?
locking vs non-locking? I have a 4L60E , and I've heard that locking converters are better than non-locking. All non-locking converters run hotter and waste more gas. So why would I want a non-locking? Any info is appreciated.
Originally Posted by matrik
I have a 4L60E , and I've heard that locking converters are better than non-locking. All non-locking converters run hotter and waste more gas. So why would I want a non-locking? Any info is appreciated.
-Chris
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 862
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA
you wouldnt.
just get the damn lockup verter.
in case you dont know what that means,
the verter works very inefficiently by having an impeller moved by the engine,
and this impeller creates some magic vortex with the trans fluid.
this magic vortex spins a propeller that moves the rear of the drivetrain
yes, transfluid is your "clutch"
with a lockup verter,
i think there is an actual clutch that engages around like 50mph,
so you eliminate that sloppy feeling from a high stall verter.
since you dont have to give it all kinds of gas to get going,
rpms are lower, and you save gas and dont create all kinds of heat from slippage.
kinda like a psudo-manual thing without a clutch pedal.
why do they even have non-locking?
anyone know?
i am thinking if your car is track-only,
ditching the clutch and necessary components for lockup function
would save weight in the converter.
just get the damn lockup verter.
in case you dont know what that means,
the verter works very inefficiently by having an impeller moved by the engine,
and this impeller creates some magic vortex with the trans fluid.
this magic vortex spins a propeller that moves the rear of the drivetrain
yes, transfluid is your "clutch"
with a lockup verter,
i think there is an actual clutch that engages around like 50mph,
so you eliminate that sloppy feeling from a high stall verter.
since you dont have to give it all kinds of gas to get going,
rpms are lower, and you save gas and dont create all kinds of heat from slippage.
kinda like a psudo-manual thing without a clutch pedal.
why do they even have non-locking?
anyone know?
i am thinking if your car is track-only,
ditching the clutch and necessary components for lockup function
would save weight in the converter.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 862
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA
damn, in the time it takes for me to write all that crap there are already two replies.
GET THE LOCKUP
if you havent been in a high-stall car,
maybe you dont know what i mean by slippage.
well slippage is nice when you want to launch at a high rpm
or when you dont want to drop too much rpm during a WOT shift.
but when youre on the freeway,
and your propeller is moving considerably slower than your impeller,
i mean, when your wheels are moving slow
and your engine is moving fast,
that is when you'll want a clutch to lockup the drivetrain.
yeah you'll save money ordering a non-lockup
but you'll pay in gas by the end of the first month.
GET THE LOCKUP
if you havent been in a high-stall car,
maybe you dont know what i mean by slippage.
well slippage is nice when you want to launch at a high rpm
or when you dont want to drop too much rpm during a WOT shift.
but when youre on the freeway,
and your propeller is moving considerably slower than your impeller,
i mean, when your wheels are moving slow
and your engine is moving fast,
that is when you'll want a clutch to lockup the drivetrain.
yeah you'll save money ordering a non-lockup
but you'll pay in gas by the end of the first month.
The main reason I'm asking, is I have a friend selling a non lock up real cheap, and i'm thinking about getting it. He has the same year car as I do, a 97 lt1, and said he only saw about a 2-3 mpg difference with it. I'm just not sure if I'll be happy with a non-lock up or not. Especially since this is my daily driver, and I'll be taking it on the interstate plenty.
lol, you will not want a non-lockup converter if you have a daily driver. That is a bad idea unless you wanna be burnin gas and your tranny while goin down the highway. 4l60e's suck as far as I'm concerned, mines gone out twice, and it was rebuilt to be bulletproof after the first time too, I never even raced or took it to the track, damn, so save your tranny as long as possible and get a lock-up.
You'll be doin 70mph gettin good mileage, a longer lasting tranny, and it will be much quieter inside from less rpms. You'll make up the difference in what you pay for the converter in like 1 day.
You'll be doin 70mph gettin good mileage, a longer lasting tranny, and it will be much quieter inside from less rpms. You'll make up the difference in what you pay for the converter in like 1 day.
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Non lockup will run at a higher rpm all the time, and you will notice a drop in gas mileage.
An 93-97 F-Body LT1 4L60E converter will fit:
93-97 LT1 F-Body
C5
Late 3rd gens (30 spline)
OBS trucks (like my 99 Tahoe)
98-02 F-Body Converters fit:
-GTO
-NBS trucks
An 93-97 F-Body LT1 4L60E converter will fit:
93-97 LT1 F-Body
C5
Late 3rd gens (30 spline)
OBS trucks (like my 99 Tahoe)
98-02 F-Body Converters fit:
-GTO
-NBS trucks
