TX2000Ws6

TH400 or Glide or 4L60?!?!!??

I just bought this car yesterday.
I am trying to decide which trans to go with… here are the details on the car.

2000 Trans Am, 3560 lbs WITH DRIVER.
Dedicated drag race car, not a street car.
408 TMS built short block (11.0 comp, 236/242 .612/.612, 113+4), TMS cnc'd LS3 heads, Fast 102 intake&TB, 1 7/8” LT’s, 9” w/4.11 spool, all spohn tubular k-frame, lca’s and drag struts in front, all umi torque arms and other arms rear. Has Zex multi-port nitrous kit that goes from 200-600 capability.

The car came with a TCI TH400 "race trans" w/brake, and a TCI “Super Street Fighter” Stall.
IMO the stall is crap (as far as quality and performance), it’s too loose and it’s probably going to cost serious ET, so I plan on AT LEAST replacing the stall… and maybe replacing the entire transmission AND the stall.

TMS has stated to me that the current setup should provide about 580HP at the flywheel, and the power band is 3500-6800 range. They said that the current cam was “not ideal” for nitrous, but would be ok with 150-200 shot max. He recommended a 5500 stall for NA/drag only, and a 3500-3700 stall for nitrous applications. He also stated that a better cam to run would be their “stage 4” cam 240/256 .625/.625, 113LSA and that it would produce about 625 at the flywheel. If the heads or cam are inappropriate for this build, i would consider changing them as well.

So, I would expect the car to be AT MOST 500RWHP (and likely closer to 450RWHP) NA and maybe 650-750 with the 200 or 300 Nitrous shot. (forgive me here, i am NOT experienced with any nitrous setups).

Here are my goals (again dedicated drag car only).
1. I "would like" the car to run 10’s consistently (without nitrous). I do feel that this is probably fairly unrealistic though, opinions?
2. I would like the car to run mid-9’s consistently (with nitrous).
(YES, I do want to keep the car capable of using nitrous, but I want it to run well without it too)
3. I would rather not have to shift the car manually, but I will if necessary (not a huge deal).

So, which transmission would be ideal for this application?

I am also planning on swapping to a Pro-Torque or Circle D converter as well, something quality.
Recommendations on the converter too?

Thanks for your input!!


(I already have some race drag radials on 10" wheels, and I will be adding skinnies too)

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

Since your Drag race only I would push towards a powerglide... They're lighter, less parasitic, and more consistent, especially if you plan to do any bracket racing.

260DET

In my part of the world no one would use a 4L60, what about a TH350?

droksformula

iTrader: (18)

Th400, glide is not ideal for this hp/weight combo

thatoneguybriz

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you'll get many votes for the 4l60. If you had to have overdrive just go immediately to a 4l80. Otherwise the Glide or the TH400 are the best choices. Since you already have a TH400 why not just swap the converter and see where you're at? At 3500lbs you might appreciate having the intermediate gear ratio a opposed to the powerglide's low and direct only.

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

Here are my goals (again dedicated drag car only).
1. I "would like" the car to run 10’s consistently (without nitrous). I do feel that this is probably fairly unrealistic though, opinions?
2. I would like the car to run mid-9’s consistently (with nitrous).
(YES, I do want to keep the car capable of using nitrous, but I want it to run well without it too)
3. I would rather not have to shift the car manually, but I will if necessary (not a huge deal).

1. I think this would be more attainable with a TH400 over a glide given your rear end gear of 4.11. This will also allow you to run a taller tire to have better traction.
2. I think you could do this with nitrous with either a TH400, or a glide.
3. What is in the car for a shifter now? All of the name brands offer a shift solenoid either electric, or CO2 that can be programmed to shift at your desired shift point so that your hands can be free to drive.

I don't think you can go wrong with either, but you already have a TH400, so I'd say go with that as it is more likely to meet all of your goals rather than just one.

Get with any of the converter sponsors here and have them spec out a converter for you and speak with them about your goals and I'm sure you'll be pleased.

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

I am running a th400 and have similar goal to you but in an lt1. My car has a th400 with an 8" FTI converter setup up for nitrous. It is tight on the motor but should loosen up perfectly on the bottle (150-200 shot). I am expecting 9.5-9.6 on the 150 shot and 9.2-9.3 on the 200 shot. If my setup can do it with an lt1 then yours should easily do it with an lsx. I think a converter change is all you should need to make it run like you want. (BTW, my car ran the numbers in my sig on its first passes with a missing #5 cylinder and still trying to get the tune dialed in at 3550 race weight not using the t-brake).

TX2000Ws6

It currently has a Hurst pistol-grip Quarter Stick shifter part#3162001.
Thanks for your reply!

TX2000Ws6

I would like to thank everyone who has replied to this thread.
There are some very well thought out answers, with supporting reasons, description, etc.

I am basically a hobbyist, and not a class racer or a consistent bracket racer, although I may get back into bracket racing again eventually.

I did a lot of bracket racing in my high school and younger 20's years before kids, family and career took over. And now 25 years later, my schedule is getting freed back up and I have taken up drag racing again as a hobby.
I bought a C7 Z06 about 6 months ago and have been racing it, but now i have the bug to modify, and i don't want to modify the new vette (it has already run a best of 10.38 @ +100DA with CAI and Torco only, so why "ruin" the car?).

My 17 year old son now races with me and he runs a 2000 T/A Ws6 A4, so this has become a "shared hobby" between us (awesome!).

Anyhow, this is what brought me to purchasing this 2000 WS6 Formula with all of the mods on my original post.

I have decided I will be initially just be calling PTC and getting a torque converter spec'd for the application, as i descriped in the OP. Secondly, I will be taking it to a very good local tuner to check the tune out before I run the car. I also will likely be running a 28 x 10 x 15 drag radial, as it has been pointed out i will probably be needing a taller tire than the 26' tall drag radials that came with the car.
I will update the thread on the results of the Dyno tune and the times.

I am truthfully not expecting much, because the car is freshly built, but nothing has been set up as far as suspension, etc. and the builder obviously did not do his research on which heads, cam, stall converter, tires, etc to buy.

Either way, i want to get a safe and accurate baseline, and then i will begin working through setting up the suspension, tire size, gearing, etc.

I suspect that I may be changing the top end (heads, cam, intake) in the future if this combination does not meet my goals.

Thanks again for all of your replies, gentlemen!

(I will attach a copy of my z06 and my son's T/A ws6 for your pleasure)

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

Nice rides! Good luck!

Puck

iTrader: (17)