Dammit...that sucks. That's gonna be sore for a while.

Be careful and get back to it

 

Oh man that does suck!
Were you trying to save it or just the right place/wrong time?
Either way your hand probably saved the trans from pushing everything up into it.
What hurt more? The trans or them cleaning your hand for stitches?
Hope you feel better soon.

 

Hopefully I can find some help and get this pig running in the next couple weeks.

They had me numbed before they started wiping it clean but the iodine solution they had me soak my hand in for 30 min hurt like hell.. The initial injury hurt the worst by far Thanks man!

 

damn you're lucky you got in in the palm. that coulda taken a finger

 

It could have fallen on my face too.. Shitty situation for sure

 

i gotta ask, how did you put the check ***** back in the transission if you assembled the valve body with it sitting verticly?

 

Haha I knew when I posted those pictures I would get some **** for doing it the wrong way. I just used a little bit of assembly goo where the sit and stuck them in. I took the valve body off three times during assembly and they never fell out of place.

 

if it works it works.

 

Looking good, except that hand, I bypassed those pics pretty quick, I get queasy looking at blood, lol
I have built a couple 80E's, only prob. with one was converter drain back, I had to install that Sonnax valve kit.
If I don't lay out how each part came out, I am screwed-I noticed some later 80E's have the thicker snap ring that comes in the HD-2 kit

 

Tonight is the first night back in a while. I got the bad trans drained and the pan off in order to get the longer shift shaft out of it. The trans smells pretty bad. Can't wait to tear it apart to see what broke. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the shifter shaft swapped in the new trans and ready to put in the truck.

 

Got it in today. It has reverse neutral and park but no forward gears. Any help would really be appreciated!

 

I would think a serious leak in the Forward Clutch Circuit/Drive Oil.
The Input shaft has 2 sets (4) solid teflon sealing rings that seal forward clutch oil that can give issues.
Where the sealing rings ride in the forward clutch drum is apt to get damaged by the input shaft on high mileage units....How was your forward drum?
Pump to case gasket.
O-ring missing on the pressure switch manifold....Replace 100%!
Mispositioned/Torn VB gaskets.

 

I replaced all the teflon sealing rings on the input shaft.. I know those are good. Same with the valve body gaskets and pump gaskets. Forward drum looked good to me.. But I guess I've never seen a damaged one. What would I be looking for there?

From the basic research Ive done this morning, could it be the roller clutch? And what would I look for to see that that was bad... It had all the rollers and springs in it. It turned one way, and locked the other way when installed.. I don't know.

 

From looking at this chart it's a problem in the forward clutch like clinebarger said. Overdrive roller is holding in reverse so that's not likely the issue.

 

this is your forward clutch assembly, ensure that everything is there, also ensure that all piston seals are good and didnt get torn during install if you replaced them.

also check your clutch engagment clearence. rule of thumb is .010 for each disk.

do you have any mods done? IE like duel feed or anything like that

 

UPDATE.... I guess I was flustered yesterday.. Just got home and tried all forward gears again. First is the only gear that free revs. Manual second runs normal as wells as third and OD.. Please someone tell me some good news. Anyone know why only first gear is free revving?


Edit: Sounds like it's the 1-2 shift solenoid or the valve is stuck in the bore. I noticed in the scanner it wasn't commanding 1-2 while in first gear. Not sure why since it needs the 1-2 solenoid engaged to apply 1st gear correct?? If I use the command features, I can command 1-2 and it pops into 1st gear. So do you guys think its a faulty solenoid or something more?

When I command the 1-2 solenoid, it definitely pops into first gear, but giving it gas up the driveway, it feels like it has a 4500rpm stall converter. So it has some slip to it. On level grade, it feels normal. So not sure if the solenoid would fix the issue or if there is more to it.

 

Is that a tube integrated? How does it sound? What speakers are you using it with? That is not a very common sight on a workbench!

 

Yes it has three tube amplifiers. Old school technology but its pretty cool. Sounds really good. I don't think they sell them anymore. Its a Fatman Audio unit. I have two speakers on each side of the same bench so I can really jam while I work

 

Played with it some more today in the scanner. I noticed the 2-3 solenoid is commanded when it should be in first gear.. Why would it be commanding 2-3 instead of 1-2??

Right now in D4, it commands 1-2 off and 2-3 on in first gear, 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids off during 2nd gear, and then 1-2 on and 2-3 off during 3rd gear, and 1-2 and 2-3 both on for overdrive.. The only issue I see is first gear.

I don't know if changing the solenoids would do change anything... Why would it command 2-3 in first gear. Doesn't make sense to me

 

hey when u get it all figured out post up how u like the shift firmness. I'm rebuilding my 80e currently with all new parts. I had a hd2 kit in it previously but shifts were not all that firm to me. I plan on redrilling plate to something larger like u have. Let me know.