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I only have my 80E trans in for 950 miles now and I'm almost done with it.
This trans replaced a turbo 350 with a 8" treemaster in the 4500 range.
Everything was working fine and it's now in my sons malibu.
I swapped the trans and had a 9.5" triple disc converter made for my nova with all the specs needed.
The videos below have plagued me since the 1st start up last march.
It does get better when the trans is at least 140*+ and the FI can maintain idle with the IAC motor but it jumps all overt trying to maintain it.
Just recently I took the TB FI off and through the carb back on and when the engine is at 170* with the carb it will die so the fi had to go back on to be able to use my car.
Cam specs are SR 262/269 AT .050" 4.30 gears and 28" ET Pro's
Car ran perfect with the th 350/treemaster and other then the idle issues with the 80 I'm happy but with cold weather rolling in so are the issues with cold fluid.
I'm using sweet performance banjo fittings for my cooler lines and wondering IF this could be an issue.
The trans doesn't run hot as I have a big true cooler with -6 ptfe lines.
Before I sent the converter back to be loosened I bypassed the cooler at the cooler and I also had the sonnax LTL valve done.
Nothing changed.
I also had to lower the LD2 boost to 0 on my controller to stop it from stalling immediately when put in rev when cold.
Now "sometimes" it will hang in there and Ill do 10mph backing out of the driveway with both of my feet on the brake.
I know I have to get on the phone again with the converter co but "maybe" it's something on my end that is causing this.
ANY thoughts would be appreciated as I'm becoming a VERY good RNR trans guy! NOT BY CHOICE! LOL!
Line to lube, common problem. Thank god i didnt get these issues when i installed my triple circle d.
So the LTL in the pump I had done isn't working?
Wouldn't trans temp be^^^ IF the clutch was dragging and the fluid burnt?
My trans guy AND Circle D said the fluid was fine and the clutch was perfect when they opened it up.
You know I just did a fluid/filter change and noticed none of this.
My converter is the same co as yours.
It also could be your cam doesn't have as much duration/overlap and need it looser at idle that mine does.
Im not familiar exactly, Ive just heard of others warning of this potential issue. Like i said i didnt have it. Ive had my idle set from 700-1100 with no ill effects.
Im not familiar exactly, Ive just heard of others warning of this potential issue. Like i said i didnt have it. Ive had my idle set from 700-1100 with no ill effects.
Yeah, I thought the Sonnax LTL valve was the cure but the problem still exist IF it is that OR it's just too tight for my combo.
That converter is going to be a whole lot heavier than a 8" treemaster and with your big cam it may just need some tuning.
But the 10 mph while holding the brake sounds like the converter clutch is indeed dragging. I put in the Sonnax line to lube valve and that fixed the dragging for mine.
That converter is going to be a whole lot heavier than a 8" treemaster and with your big cam it may just need some tuning.
I agree that it's heavier and I have given it more fuel at idle and also leaned it out with the same results speed up the IAC and it maxes out at 225 steps and still stalls.
I can put the carb on it raise the idle to 1500 and nets the same thing at 170 water temp.
Have you checked to see what the line pressure is doing? There is a pipe plug in the case near the shift linkage.
Yup. Second video shows the gauge. I lowered the REV LD2 pressure and it goes to 100 psi now in rev. before that it was higher.
Still does it at 100.
Pressure jump rt up with throttle. The ONLY issue is Idle.
It will/does blow the DR's off with ease.
Have you checked to see what the line pressure is doing? There is a pipe plug in the case near the shift linkage.
Yup. 1st video shows the gauge. I lowered the RL2 pressure and it goes to 100 psi now in rev. before that it was higher.
Still does it at 100.
Pressure jump rt up with throttle. The ONLY issue is Idle.
It will/does blow the DR's off with ease.
Ok did the unplug test and line goes rt to 175 psi at idle and 275 in reverse.
When in this mode I can turn the idle down to 850 and it will bounce to 900 and down to 800 but does not stall.
Bangs in rev and I guess 2nd (limp mode)
Thoughts where to check/look test next?
Engine temp is 170*
Pan tep with IR gun is 95
Pull the line off the rear cooler port, Run it to a bucket (You may want to overfill the trans just a little) Have someone start the car & SEE if you have cooler flow! No cooler flow=no pressure to keep the converter clutch released.
Your "lube to line" PR valve could be defective, It relies on a check valve to open with line pressure, If you have little/no cooler flow.....Remove the Sonnax LTL PR valve & apply air to the Line Pressure "in"......Air should come out the Converter Charge "out".
Have you tried unbolting the converter to try and verify that the problem is with the trans?
I can do this but it idles fine in neutral.
I will also try to remove the rear is (the return correct) and put it into a soda bottle?
One thing tho. Wouldn't the trans get HOT if there was no flo through the lines/cooler?
It's only gotten to 170/175 sitting behind a school but back in September.
Normally it's in the low 150's around town and will go lower lu on the high way.
I have one washer between the converter and the flexplate.
Should I remove the washer and try that too if none of the above reveals anything?
If it idles fine in neutral there is no need to unbolt the converter.
Ok Thanks,
Seems to idle fine in gear with the controller disconnected and pressure maxes out.
I brought the rev RL2 pressure boost up to 50% with the connector plugged in and it still stalled.
Driving me nuts but for the 1st time in a year it didn't stall (unplugged) with the idle below 1100.
So now it's just narrowing it down to WHAT it is!
Cline, in an older thread you posted that you trimmed your rear fitting down 3/16"
Looking at the picture below, could there be an issue doing so as it "potentially" would not make it into the notch?
Is it supposed to fit in it like pictured?
Does it go rt into the drum on the second picture?
I "think" this pic "may" (fingers crossed) could be my issue and answered my own question?
You trimmed it this so it doesn't butt up to the drum restricting flow!
I didn't! Look at the ring where the fitting was butted up!
This isn't my trans. Found it on the interweb! LOL!
Why wouldn't this hole be aligned with the fitting?
Look how small it gets with the fitting installed!
Cline, in an older thread you posted that you trimmed your rear fitting down 3/16"
Looking at the picture below, could there be an issue doing so as it "potentially" would not make it into the notch?
Is it supposed to fit in it like pictured?
Does it go rt into the drum on the second picture?
Yes, I had to trim my sweet performance banjo fitting down because it was running into the center support when torqued down, I compared the SP fitting to a stock fitting to figure how much needed to be cut off. I could have cut 1/4" off it & it still would have reached the seal & sealed well.
I can measure a stock fitting tomorrow at work for you if needed?
I don't think this is your issue.
Last edited by clinebarger; 11-15-2017 at 08:38 PM.
Yes, I had to trim my sweet performance banjo fitting down because it was running into the center support when torqued down, I compared the SP fitting to a stock fitting to figure how much needed to be cut off. I could have cut 1/4" off it & it still would have reached the seal & sealed well.
I can measure a stock fitting tomorrow at work for you if needed?
I don't think this is your issue.
Yeah, i'm thinking that also. I stopped by my trans guy today and he's leaning towards the converter.
I have a stock fitting and we ran one in a 80E he had on the shelf with some grease on it and it pushed the grease about 3/16" up the fitting.
Still going to test the cooler loop next. Maybe just a short pc from in to out.
11-14-2017, 09:16 AM
Could my cooler banjo fittings be causing this? 
