What is it like driving a stalled auto?
What is it like driving a stalled auto? When just cruising around, does it feel like the transmission is slipping - like you press the gas and the motor revs but there's a delay before the car accelerates, or does it accelerate quicker due to less resistance since the converter isn't fully locked up? Also on a 3800 stall - would the converter "ever" lock up while driving on the highway or cruising at a constant speed since the motor would technically never reach 3800 RPMS while cruising?
I know one of the points in stalling is it allows you to launch from a higher RPM thus getting into your powerband much easier from a dig.. but does it help anything from a roll or while cruising?
I know one of the points in stalling is it allows you to launch from a higher RPM thus getting into your powerband much easier from a dig.. but does it help anything from a roll or while cruising?
It's a little bit weird and a little hard to explain how it feels. It's not like it's slipping, more like it revs more freely, then the power comes on hard. Almost like a turbo car.
They help from a roll too, very similar to rear end gears. Coming from driving nothing but stick cars, I was confused about it as well.
They help from a roll too, very similar to rear end gears. Coming from driving nothing but stick cars, I was confused about it as well.
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From: White Bear, Mn
Converters absolutely help with more than just the launch.
They also help shift extensions. For example my car.... I run the PT 4000, I shift at 7000 rpms, after each shift the rpms only drop to about 6100 rpms.
They also help shift extensions. For example my car.... I run the PT 4000, I shift at 7000 rpms, after each shift the rpms only drop to about 6100 rpms.
...If I got a 3800 stall right now, but later decided to build my motor, heads, cam, possibly even S/C -- or lets say that I went with ported heads / valvetrain upgrades and ran a LSA cam or a cam with street manners (almost stockish) and S/C'd, would I need to worry about changing the stall for a different stall? if so would you recommend keeping a stock converter in there until I do the motor work?
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Nov 26, 2017 at 07:01 PM.
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From: White Bear, Mn
...If I got a 3800 stall right now, but later decided to build my motor, heads, cam, possibly even S/C -- or lets say that I went with ported heads / valvetrain upgrades and ran a LSA cam or a cam with street manners (almost stockish) and S/C'd, would I need to worry about changing the stall for a different stall? if so would you recommend keeping a stock converter in there until I do the motor work?
N/A vs boost converters are different. If you don't mind the work put a N/A converter in there and when you're going to boost it pull it out and have it restalled.
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I always say that the converter is the heart of the automatic car. I wouldn't have gone with an auto in my build without a proper 9.5" lockup converter.
It makes or breaks the entire combo in my opinion.
It makes or breaks the entire combo in my opinion.
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I haven’t had one in 6 years but it did feel like it was slipping then it wouldn’t grab and rev pretty quick. Really hard to explain and I also think it depends on the converter. I ran a Yank SS3600 with a Futral Motorsports F11 until I stroked it and went with a bigger cam spec’d for nitrous.
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From: Harford Co. Maryland
I have had some off the shelf, one size fits all converters over the years and they did feel like they were reving too much when just cruising...which I always thought that's just the way it was....2500-3000 just getting up to speed from a light or stop sign.
Then went to a custom built unit, and what a difference. I can barely tell its in there.
Have a 5000 stall 9.5" dual anti-balloon plates which was built for a little shot of giggle gas, so its a little tight NA. 500rpm drop running NA (haven't hit the button.... yet)
Then went to a custom built unit, and what a difference. I can barely tell its in there.
Have a 5000 stall 9.5" dual anti-balloon plates which was built for a little shot of giggle gas, so its a little tight NA. 500rpm drop running NA (haven't hit the button.... yet)
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From: Houston
Don't be afraid of a 3800 converter from a good manufacturer. I have a 4000 FTI behind a bone stock engine and 2.73 gears. I have no problem driving it on the street. It drives very much like my old 2800 converter but when you hit the gas there's a big difference. Plus, if/when you go to a heads/cam set up you already have a high stall or can have it restalled.
I had a mercury marauder with a 3000 RPM stall with 4.10's and a tune. That big *** boat would surprise the hell out of you. Compared to a stock one as others have said it did feel a little "loose" on the street but was not a pain at all to drive.
I have a yank ss3600 and to be honest I don't even notice I have a converter in the car. I have 3.73 gears though. I'm an old time hot rodder and remember having a 3600 converter back in the day. Those you could definitely feel the low speed slippage.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Checked the video's, thats interesting, at light throttle seems like it takes more revs / time to get up to speed but when you nail it - it's the exact opposite, the speedometer is literally almost thrown out of the cluster...
Best way i could explain it is, it doesn't "feel" like its slipping but it does sound / appear like it. What i mean is you can feel full engagement in the trans but the car is revving higher than normal and looks/ feels like it should be going faster - at part throttle. Kinda like driving with open headers, in my opinion anyways. Full throttle = big smiles. Hope i helped and explained it a little.......
600rwhp on a stock motor? would love to know how that's possible.
Also, choosing a 2800 stall converter when your peak power is at 4000rpm (for example) is a futile exercise I would have thought.
I made 602rwhp and 596 rwtq through 4l60e precision 3500 stall, dana 60 rear. Stock lq4 6.0 with ported 243's 228/232 cam and fast 92/92 with a 150 shot.
OR
TONS of guys make 600+rwhp with boost on stock bottom end.
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Pretty Easily actually...heads, cam, intake and 100-200 shot of nitrous... all depending on set up obviously.
I made 602rwhp and 596 rwtq through 4l60e precision 3500 stall, dana 60 rear. Stock lq4 6.0 with ported 243's 228/232 cam and fast 92/92 with a 150 shot.
OR
TONS of guys make 600+rwhp with boost on stock bottom end.
I made 602rwhp and 596 rwtq through 4l60e precision 3500 stall, dana 60 rear. Stock lq4 6.0 with ported 243's 228/232 cam and fast 92/92 with a 150 shot.
OR
TONS of guys make 600+rwhp with boost on stock bottom end.