4l80 manual low tie-up help
hey guys im stumped on a recent 4l80 build I have a bind tie up in manual low and logging data says I'm doing 70 in 1st gear it feels like its doing 2nd gear starts so no 1st gear full rebuild with borg high energy frictions rollorized rear output, dual feed, accumulator block off plate, omit sealing rings from 1-2 accumulator, transgo tempered plate, new sonnax vb, sonnax boost valve pressure is good. reverse, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th work well. pressure data shows man low only when in d1 the only code is the p0706 which can come from starting engine in drive which I've been doing. any ideas that could get me in the right direction would be much appreciated I'm going to drop pan tonight and change 1-2 solenoid although I bench tested and seemed good 3800 circle d converter
hey guys im stumped on a recent 4l80 build I have a bind tie up in manual low and logging data says I'm doing 70 in 1st gear it feels like its doing 2nd gear starts so no 1st gear full rebuild with borg high energy frictions rollorized rear output, dual feed, accumulator block off plate, omit sealing rings from 1-2 accumulator, transgo tempered plate, new sonnax vb, sonnax boost valve pressure is good. reverse, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th work well. pressure data shows man low only when in d1 the only code is the p0706 which can come from starting engine in drive which I've been doing. any ideas that could get me in the right direction would be much appreciated I'm going to drop pan tonight and change 1-2 solenoid although I bench tested and seemed good 3800 circle d converter
That's your problem.
well I'm pretty sure its hurt went in and replaced seals on 1-2 now pressure is lazy, looks like its coming out soon. now tries to kill motor when put in gear. first doesn't bind now. I guess thats a plus and a lesson learned. I thought about trying a new filter but, I think its done
just got done tearing down. metal was from direct clutch spring plate touching forward hub. pressure Im sure was down from me not tightening acc block off plate they were finger tight, that would kill my pressure right? clutches look good I'm going to install a new spring plate, send converter out to get cleaned and restalled, put trans back together and try a stock converter so I dont have trouble with the good one I don't see anything wrong with that other then the labor involved?
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Torque Signal is fed into 3rd & 4th Accumulator housing that was used for the "Compensator" in the early unit, Line Pressure is also present in that area.
I prefer custom plates that don't have accumulator passages at all.
Did you drill a "Lube to Line" bypass in the Pump Cover OR use a Bypass PR Valve?
The 4L80E spring retainers are kinda flimsy, But are okay with stock return springs. Are you running "High Rate Springs" in the Direct Clutch?
I prefer custom plates that don't have accumulator passages at all.
Did you drill a "Lube to Line" bypass in the Pump Cover OR use a Bypass PR Valve?
The 4L80E spring retainers are kinda flimsy, But are okay with stock return springs. Are you running "High Rate Springs" in the Direct Clutch?
I did not drill the lube to line passage was really thinking about it is it necessary? will I lose line pressure i dont really think it could hurt probably do more good then bad? I believe they are the "high rate springs" in the direct this had an hd2 kit installed originally I think they are in the kit but i think thats the only hd2 left in this trans
I recommend drilling a bypass (.055") is what I drill them to. This will provide added lubrication, cooler flow, & converter feed (which also helps the TCC "Off" pressure).
Option #1......TH400 spring retainers are thicker & do not distort as easy, But you need to run a Aluminum TH400 piston with the retainer.......This will get rid of the even more flimsy bottom spring retainer.
Option #2......Buy a 4L80E return spring assembly & use the stock rate springs......Drill a .055"-.063" bleed hole at the edge of the drum under the piston.
**I like to run high rate springs & a bleed hole in the drum. However.......one or the other does work.
TH400 piston & retainer I.D.....

Option #1......TH400 spring retainers are thicker & do not distort as easy, But you need to run a Aluminum TH400 piston with the retainer.......This will get rid of the even more flimsy bottom spring retainer.
Option #2......Buy a 4L80E return spring assembly & use the stock rate springs......Drill a .055"-.063" bleed hole at the edge of the drum under the piston.
**I like to run high rate springs & a bleed hole in the drum. However.......one or the other does work.
TH400 piston & retainer I.D.....

I will drill the hole tomorrow. I already have a .060 in the direct and decided to rollorize the forward hub while I was in there actually pretty easy. I had another good drum around so I just grabbed the retainer from that although I will order the 400 piston and retainer I saw on ck looks way better for the next build I have a few vehicles with 80’s so I like to have a spare ready
I use Ford AXOD bearing part# E6DZ-7F404-A, Green Sales Inc. has them in stock......1-800-543-4959.
The bearing has been discontinued for quite some time now, Though Ford dealers are known to have NOS stuff sitting on the shelf.
You must machine a stock forward hub to use a bearing!
The bearing has been discontinued for quite some time now, Though Ford dealers are known to have NOS stuff sitting on the shelf.
You must machine a stock forward hub to use a bearing!
thank you I use a ford taurus fan right now and my buddy wont let me live that down!
I machined .100 off my hub last night and it was perfect. tried the deere hyguard for the first time as we have a bunch laying around it shifted like a dream although my cam hates the stock converter the shifts feel crisp the pressure is up around the 210 mark
thanks everyone for your help especially clinebarger I dont ask for help much but transmissions are a science and I appreciate more then you know
I machined .100 off my hub last night and it was perfect. tried the deere hyguard for the first time as we have a bunch laying around it shifted like a dream although my cam hates the stock converter the shifts feel crisp the pressure is up around the 210 mark
thanks everyone for your help especially clinebarger I dont ask for help much but transmissions are a science and I appreciate more then you know
well catastrophe! it shifted awesome next day I went to run a couple tests and pressure down again 50psi anywhere. drained oil it was trashed tons of fine metal. tore down. pump cut into housing bad. its a stock converter, I had 1/8-3/16 clearance before bolting up. seems like the stock torque converter couldn't handle 6600 rpm? I look over at converter notice torrington bearing hanging out in the converter cut it apart and sure enough one side of bearing is gone.
converter just couldnt handle it? could that have ballooned and wore into pump gear? and I have a intermediate steel warped bad as well just one steel
converter just couldnt handle it? could that have ballooned and wore into pump gear? and I have a intermediate steel warped bad as well just one steel




