Braided Transmission Lines keep springing leaks
You can have the lines made if you wish. I just bought all the stuff so I can build them myself. A pair of magnetic vise clamps, and a set of good shears will set you back about 50 bucks, total. If you are pulling the lines, just order some new fittings, which are usually pretty cheap, and cut off the current ones. Some are reusable, but new ones aren't so expensive as to not just go ahead and replace.
It's super easy once you get the hang of it. Just wrap the spot you wish to add the new fittings (right behind the old ones) with some good electrical tape, or other style tape (duct tape) and cut it right in middle of the tape. It can be done with a hacksaw too, but you will have to trim the strands with some cutters. I just leave the tape on and put the new fittings right over it.
Put the fitting on the end of the hose, and leave about 1/16" or so of room there at the end where it butts up. Lock the fitting and line into your vise. I always just get the line and fitting clamped in at the same time by running the hose down a little so the vise catches it and holds it for me. Then simply thread in the new one. Make sure you lube it with some oil or trans fluid and you'll be good to go. Run it all the way in and keep an eye on the line to ensure it's not getting pushed out of the barrel.
In my opinion it's simply better to know how to make these things, as the cost will remain very, very low. I always have a bunch of extra fittings laying around for projects, and extra line too. I usually "stock" -6, -8, and -10 lines and fittings, just in case I decide to change something down the road. I can have a replacement line made in as little as 10 minutes.
It's super easy once you get the hang of it. Just wrap the spot you wish to add the new fittings (right behind the old ones) with some good electrical tape, or other style tape (duct tape) and cut it right in middle of the tape. It can be done with a hacksaw too, but you will have to trim the strands with some cutters. I just leave the tape on and put the new fittings right over it.
Put the fitting on the end of the hose, and leave about 1/16" or so of room there at the end where it butts up. Lock the fitting and line into your vise. I always just get the line and fitting clamped in at the same time by running the hose down a little so the vise catches it and holds it for me. Then simply thread in the new one. Make sure you lube it with some oil or trans fluid and you'll be good to go. Run it all the way in and keep an eye on the line to ensure it's not getting pushed out of the barrel.
In my opinion it's simply better to know how to make these things, as the cost will remain very, very low. I always have a bunch of extra fittings laying around for projects, and extra line too. I usually "stock" -6, -8, and -10 lines and fittings, just in case I decide to change something down the road. I can have a replacement line made in as little as 10 minutes.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 179
From: Virginia
Summit sells them, and a good set of shears too. Very nice tools for the price.
Here's a set of inserts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-1004erl
Shears...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040
Here's a set of inserts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-1004erl
Shears...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
My experience is by use and observation on road and sprint cars. Your needs may vary...
Not poking at the bear too hard but I did emergency crew for quite a few years at a local road race track, push fit lines accounted for more fires than I care to remember, and they don't advertise it, but push fit hose typically have a 2 year life expectancy with regular use on transmission applications, ATV is heavy in solvent that pretty much eats rubber over time.
They also tend to fatigue right at the internal end of the fitting in these, so their life can be extended if you cut a bit off and re-assemble them when they start feeling spongy or bulging at the fitting.
Liner for hydraulic fluid line is usually Tygon or as noted PTFE depending on the fluid. (And the fluid type matters) Hydro shops usually have the compatibility sheet for each hose type.
Having some nice crimped Goodrich lines made at a shop is cheap piece of mind and put them in a sleeve to protect from heat as needed(Braided line is tougher but can still get fatigued for high temps like exhaust...),, if they are flex end to end, they should have rubber lined wide adel clamps holding them to the car every 12 to 18 inches. Should not flop with vibration.
For race cars, I air test braided sheath lines every other year,, (Cap one end and pressurize to about 50 PSI, in a big washtub full of water. Shouldn't be any bubbles). Personally on race cars I use flex only from frame to cooler and tranny, the bulk of the longer run line is hard line. The hard line sheds heat much better than the rubber/braided layers of Aeroquipe or Goodrich braided hoses and when properly attached to the frame last forever barring damage or corrosion.
Good Luck!
Not poking at the bear too hard but I did emergency crew for quite a few years at a local road race track, push fit lines accounted for more fires than I care to remember, and they don't advertise it, but push fit hose typically have a 2 year life expectancy with regular use on transmission applications, ATV is heavy in solvent that pretty much eats rubber over time.
They also tend to fatigue right at the internal end of the fitting in these, so their life can be extended if you cut a bit off and re-assemble them when they start feeling spongy or bulging at the fitting.
Liner for hydraulic fluid line is usually Tygon or as noted PTFE depending on the fluid. (And the fluid type matters) Hydro shops usually have the compatibility sheet for each hose type.
Having some nice crimped Goodrich lines made at a shop is cheap piece of mind and put them in a sleeve to protect from heat as needed(Braided line is tougher but can still get fatigued for high temps like exhaust...),, if they are flex end to end, they should have rubber lined wide adel clamps holding them to the car every 12 to 18 inches. Should not flop with vibration.
For race cars, I air test braided sheath lines every other year,, (Cap one end and pressurize to about 50 PSI, in a big washtub full of water. Shouldn't be any bubbles). Personally on race cars I use flex only from frame to cooler and tranny, the bulk of the longer run line is hard line. The hard line sheds heat much better than the rubber/braided layers of Aeroquipe or Goodrich braided hoses and when properly attached to the frame last forever barring damage or corrosion.
Good Luck!
Last edited by pdxmotorhead; Feb 21, 2018 at 12:30 AM.
My experience is by use and observation on road and sprint cars. Your needs may vary...
Not poking at the bear too hard but I did emergency crew for quite a few years at a local road race track, push fit lines accounted for more fires than I care to remember, and they don't advertise it, but push fit hose typically have a 2 year life expectancy with regular use on transmission applications, ATV is heavy in solvent that pretty much eats rubber over time.
They also tend to fatigue right at the internal end of the fitting in these, so their life can be extended if you cut a bit off and re-assemble them when they start feeling spongy or bulging at the fitting.
Liner for hydraulic fluid line is usually Tygon or as noted PTFE depending on the fluid. (And the fluid type matters) Hydro shops usually have the compatibility sheet for each hose type.
Having some nice crimped Goodrich lines made at a shop is cheap piece of mind and put them in a sleeve to protect from heat as needed(Braided line is tougher but can still get fatigued for high temps like exhaust...),, if they are flex end to end, they should have rubber lined wide adel clamps holding them to the car every 12 to 18 inches. Should not flop with vibration.
For race cars, I air test braided sheath lines every other year,, (Cap one end and pressurize to about 50 PSI, in a big washtub full of water. Shouldn't be any bubbles). Personally on race cars I use flex only from frame to cooler and tranny, the bulk of the longer run line is hard line. The hard line sheds heat much better than the rubber/braided layers of Aeroquipe or Goodrich braided hoses and when properly attached to the frame last forever barring damage or corrosion.
Good Luck!
Not poking at the bear too hard but I did emergency crew for quite a few years at a local road race track, push fit lines accounted for more fires than I care to remember, and they don't advertise it, but push fit hose typically have a 2 year life expectancy with regular use on transmission applications, ATV is heavy in solvent that pretty much eats rubber over time.
They also tend to fatigue right at the internal end of the fitting in these, so their life can be extended if you cut a bit off and re-assemble them when they start feeling spongy or bulging at the fitting.
Liner for hydraulic fluid line is usually Tygon or as noted PTFE depending on the fluid. (And the fluid type matters) Hydro shops usually have the compatibility sheet for each hose type.
Having some nice crimped Goodrich lines made at a shop is cheap piece of mind and put them in a sleeve to protect from heat as needed(Braided line is tougher but can still get fatigued for high temps like exhaust...),, if they are flex end to end, they should have rubber lined wide adel clamps holding them to the car every 12 to 18 inches. Should not flop with vibration.
For race cars, I air test braided sheath lines every other year,, (Cap one end and pressurize to about 50 PSI, in a big washtub full of water. Shouldn't be any bubbles). Personally on race cars I use flex only from frame to cooler and tranny, the bulk of the longer run line is hard line. The hard line sheds heat much better than the rubber/braided layers of Aeroquipe or Goodrich braided hoses and when properly attached to the frame last forever barring damage or corrosion.
Good Luck!
Summit sells them, and a good set of shears too. Very nice tools for the price.
Here's a set of inserts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-1004erl
Shears...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040
Here's a set of inserts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-1004erl
Shears...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040
I also bought one of these.....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar-Perfor...SABEgKCTvD_BwE
Expensive for a piece of plastic but worked pretty good. These AN fittings take patience and practice.
You can buy AN kits on ebay that include hose and assorted fittings at a good price. The fittings seemed to be good quality.
^^^That was a good starting point for me since I was new to AN and plumbing trans lines.
Should probably grab some of these as I did....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-AN-6-A...VaSyov&vxp=mtr
I went with this for hose and fittings. It was 20 bucks cheaper when I bought it a few months ago. Forgot I actually got it from amazon.
And some three in one oil.
Should probably grab some of these as I did....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-AN-6-A...VaSyov&vxp=mtr
I went with this for hose and fittings. It was 20 bucks cheaper when I bought it a few months ago. Forgot I actually got it from amazon.
And some three in one oil.
Well guys. I feel like an idiot. I finally managed to get the car on a lift and run it and it turns out it's not the hoses. It was the radiator...Trans fluid was just running back due to wind and coating the hoses making it look like it was leaking. I reseated the fittings into the radiator and it seems to have stopped. Hopefully that's all it was
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 179
From: Virginia
Well guys. I feel like an idiot. I finally managed to get the car on a lift and run it and it turns out it's not the hoses. It was the radiator...Trans fluid was just running back due to wind and coating the hoses making it look like it was leaking. I reseated the fittings into the radiator and it seems to have stopped. Hopefully that's all it was
Just in case...
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
What state you live in?
If warm weather I would bypass the radiator cooler for two reasons....
1. Better cooling when bypassing the radiator and just running a stand alone cooler.
2. If that cooler in the radiator gives out it will push coolant into the transmission and instantly wipe it out
If warm weather I would bypass the radiator cooler for two reasons....
1. Better cooling when bypassing the radiator and just running a stand alone cooler.
2. If that cooler in the radiator gives out it will push coolant into the transmission and instantly wipe it out
What state you live in?
If warm weather I would bypass the radiator cooler for two reasons....
1. Better cooling when bypassing the radiator and just running a stand alone cooler.
2. If that cooler in the radiator gives out it will push coolant into the transmission and instantly wipe it out
If warm weather I would bypass the radiator cooler for two reasons....
1. Better cooling when bypassing the radiator and just running a stand alone cooler.
2. If that cooler in the radiator gives out it will push coolant into the transmission and instantly wipe it out
I've been considering bypassing it.. I guess I could just get an adapter and connect the lines.
