DIY Vacuum Test Valve Body
That I do not recommend DIY builders use ATF to assemble the valve-body...
Unless you are working in a very clean environment; it is very easy for dirt/ debris to end up in the ATF... causing sticking/ stuck valves.
I recommended assembling dry or with a small amount of WD40... blowing out the WD40 afterwards to keep everything as clean as possible.
That I do not recommend DIY builders use ATF to assemble the valve-body...
Unless you are working in a very clean environment; it is very easy for dirt/ debris to end up in the ATF... causing sticking/ stuck valves.
I recommended assembling dry or with a small amount of WD40... blowing out the WD40 afterwards to keep everything as clean as possible.
Anyway, I posted my 2nd readings next to the first above and highlighted them. Pretty similar.
But, I might have found the issue with the TCC valve and why its so low. As you can see its already had a solid valve with O rings installed. But, after further inspection you can see both the lower O rings are damn near flat especially the middle smaller one.


As you can see this is a potential problem
I also vacuum tested the pump stator half

Here are my readings:
TCC Apply - 16"
Port - 18-19"
Pressure Regulator Valve - 17"
Boost Valve - 15"
The boost valve that is in it isnt an o-ring style valve FYI
Now that I have my readings. What do you guys think?
The 3-4 usually tests lower than all other valves in my experience. So I'd say yours is OK
Get the sonnax O ring end plugs and most of those 14 readings will go to 19+
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
These things are nice! I ended up getting 3" more of vacuum on the 4-3 sequence valve and 3-4 relay valve cavity. Highly recommend
Waiting for the new TCC regulator valve to come in and ill retest that. Thats the one im banking on to get at least 3" or more hopefully. If so, im pretty confident in this VB to put it in the game.



The 77964-08K kit looks like the O-rings seal up the 3/4 and 4/3 shift bores nicely on the 4L60E.
It terms of plugs in the valve body of a 4L80E, these are the plugs and Sonnax recommended replacement kits:
329 - Accumulator valve bore plug - 34994-22K (Sonnax kit has no O-ring on plug) Full repair requires F-34994-TL22 also.
326 - Valve bore actuator feed plug - 34200-16K (Sonnax kit has no O-ring on plug) Full repair requires 77754-T also. Can also use transgo 48-ACT-TL kit.
304 - Plug that has a ball in it for use in the 3/4 shift valve train - 34200-47K - (this kit has 3rd Checkball Sleeve with O-Ring and Sonnax Reverse checkball sleeve)
316 - Shift solenoid feed filter plug - 34994-17K (contains an O-ring end plug)
304 - Low/Reverse plug that has a checkball in it - replace with 34200-52 (Sonnax kit has no O-ring on plug)
The manual valve, TCC regulator apply valve, 2/3 shift valve, and 1/2 shift valve do not have end plugs.
The TCC Regulator Valve has std and oversized replacement options 34994-01K Std and 34994-18K Oversized and the Oversized option requires F-34994-TL18
The manual valve if worn can be replaced with 34994-16K
So on a 4L80E, really the only Sonnax O-ringed plugs that are going to give you a better seal over OEM non o-ringed plugs are the 3/4 shift and the shift solenoid feed filter plug.
In terms of the oil pump on a 4L80E, these are the plugs and OEM part numbers:
222 - TCC valve bore plug - 24243484 (.625" dia but can also be a large plug .668" dia depending on the year, not sure on OEM large plug part #)
232 - Pressure Regulator Plug - 24243484 (.625" dia)
212 - Converter Limit Valve Bore Plug - 24243484 (.625" dia)
225 - TCC valve bore plug - 8682857 (can be .275" wide or .177" wide depending on the year, but both are .500" dia)
Sonnax recommends to not replace the plug if it's .275" wide.
The Sonnax Sure Cure kit (not pictured) comes with:
• End Plug, Large, .668" dia.
• End Plug, Medium, .625" dia., (2)
• End Plug, Small, .500" dia.
• O-Ring, Large
• O-Ring, Medium (2)
• O-Ring, Small
So if you need 3 medium plugs in your pump, you'll need to source that extra .625" plug....
Sonnax also makes these o-ring end plug kits for the pump, but each kit comes with 5 plugs and they are only around $10 a kit
34994-14K which fits .668" dia. TCC valve bores
34994-13 which fits.497" dia TCC shift valve bores
34200-05K which fits .625" dia TCC shift valve bores
The S34165E kit made by Superior can be used to service #232 Pressure Regulator Plug and comes with PR valve, Boost valve, Boost valve sleeve, Shift solenoid feed filter plug, TCC regulator apply valve, filter, and everything else seen in the picture below.
Transgo makes a kit part number 4L80E-SK seen below which has a Redesigned Boost Valve and Bushing, the relief valve (don't recommend this), a 4th clutch bolt, direct clutch oil seals, accumulator valve springs, actuator feed screen and bore plugs. https://www.transgo.org/demo/4L80E-SK-Promo.pdf
I plan to purchase S34165E as it takes care of the pressure regulator valve train in the pump. The TCC valve in the valve body, and the shift solenoid feed filter plugs that it comes with are a bonus. I will also purchase 34200-47K as well as 34200-05K to replace the non o-ringed plugs with these o-ringed plugs. May need to purchase 34994-14K and 34994-13 depending on pump vaccum tests. The rest of the items for the valve body will only be purchased if the vacuum test results show that there is a need to replace.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; Dec 28, 2020 at 09:09 PM.
Stock PR Valve, stock PR spring, transgo LB1 boost valve with O rings
Otherwise stock valves/springs in the pump.
There are companies like Circle D, etc that send a stiff spring to go in the conv. limit valve. CK has you use a check ball and block the valve. We can get into the hydraulics and futility of what they're trying to accomplish, but that's for another time.
In the VB, the sonnax TCC reg valve with the teflon seal is nice.
Ream the AFL (transgo is good...some prefer sonnax)
And just check the rest. Very rarely do you need anything other than the AFL and TCC.
The accumulator valve really doesn't matter for most builds because A. it's not a high wear valve. B. many are blocking accumulators so leakage at the valve is irrelevant.
The checkball sleeve is already o-ring'd and the only way that's not sealing well is if you boogered the **** out of it during disassembly.
all shift valves are fine. Any complaints there are usually traced back to the AFL anyway...not the valves themselves. Make sure you use the right springs and if the springs are broken you replace.
I don't use transgo, superior, or sure cure sonnax for the 80e.
There's simply no need
Modify the hydraulic circuits as needed, cure the AFL and TCC Reg, use a good boost valve...that's really all you need. Vac test to make sure something glaring isn't wrong. But in my opinion alot of those kits are throwing in parts and "mods" that aren't really needed just to justify the price and make the customer feel more accomplished after their purchase and install
I've been preaching this for years and so have many others.
Run the numbers, and the 3/4 clutch has enough clutch and hydraulic apply to hold good amounts of TQ.
BUT...if that apply pressure is bled off before it gets to the piston...you're fighting a losing battle.
Pair that with an pump that is designed to be anemic over 5k rpm...you can see why the 60e got a bad rep
the 80e and 400 have enough capacity to mask alot of issues. the 60e just doesn't have the luxury.
for a 60e...fix the leaks. bump the pressure. You'll have a great trans









