I will soon be reassembling my 4l60e. I have a single cage input sprag ...should I replace it with a double cage sprag? Should I replace the input and roller clutch sprag as a precaution? Thanks

 

What's the budget? What's the power/use of the trans.

I usually replace them because they're fairly cheap and easy insurance. But you don't necessarily HAVE to do it on every rebuild.

 

I will only use a double cage sprag with 28 elements, but this time around I am going to try the 29 element sprag.

 

At one time I had 5 gallon buckets of low reverse roller clutches. They all looked hardly used. Take that how you will.

Sellers, builders and the paranoid will tell you otherwise.
They will break if you neutral drop it.
I have yet to have a fwd sprag fail solely because it was single cage.

 

For better oiling I tried to drill these holes but can't deburr the inside good enough so would it be worth a try to instead drill the over run hub in the area it always wears at?

 

I don't bother with the sprag that uses brass end caps. I for sure wouldn't drill holes in the over run clutch hub.
All the brass end caps seem to have wear problems.

 

 

I haven't used one of those yet. I have one that came out of a newer model core and it looks ok. Theres a builder on here I think that says he uses those with no problems.

 

A74658C is the WIT number I usually go with.
29236am is the borg warner number.


Never ever have a problem with it. Inspect both races. Polish the inner with 800 then 1200 sandpaper, rough up the outer with 120 grit

 

I use the nylon/steel cage 29 element Borg Warner in 750+FWHP applications. They have 12.7% wider sprag elements. You must add the lube holes as shown, and use the 4L60E overrun hub that has no wear at the retainer contact area on the overrun hub. The inner race must be in perfect shape and very smooth (mirror finish). The regular 29 element Borg Warner sprag with the steel retainers work very well in applications under 750FWHP.

 

Thanks a lot ... this is info I was looking for