from info i found on here i got with a parts builder and ordered a nice street/strip setup and a yank 3600. daily driving, the 60E lasted 9k miles. i know its a lot of extra stress on it, but high energy borg worner clutches, external cooler, shift kit($700-800 in upgrades) theres no reason it shouldnt have lasted longer than that.

so i take it to another builder(friends recommendation) and they said all the clutches are toast and he thinks the stall is doing it(he didnt know i have a big/aftermarket stall) so of course when i tell him i have a big stall he says yep thats it. he says daily driving that big it wont last

friends and locals that build cars are all saying the same thing. i should be around a 2200-2500 not the 3600

if it dies again idk what to do. i havent had any luck finding any racing builders locally. it seems ill be stuck with either buying and having something shipped here or just going to a small stall, which is fine for now but i plan to put a cam in it some day. i know the 80E is the best option but spending $1000 to get it swapped over when i already have $700-800 in just the yank stall not to mention the rest really sucks

 

First and foremost do you have a cooler? This should have been both builder's first question

Second, if you're wiping out ALL clutches...then the most likely issue is fluid level. Either you are underfull, overfull, or sucking air under hard acceleration when the fluid moves away from the filter. I would ensure fill level by installing the trans and dipstick, removing the pan, and marking the dipstick. Scribe a line on the dipstick that is even with the pan rail. That is the correct fill level. If you have issues with sucking air, you can fill 1/8 inch over that mark.

Plain and simple a 3600 stall will not kill your 60e if it's properly built. I have 500 horse units with 4k stalls and no issues.

If you think fluid level is correct...then Either you builder (or builders) are missing something...more than likely a circuit leak...a bad pump...etc or you are getting it way too hot.

 

MaroonMonsterLS1, he did say he has an external cooler. I guess the followup would be "how big is it?"

 

There is zero reason you should be going through transmissions at your power level unless you are getting it incredibly hot or like mentioned way low on fluid.

What exactly is going out with the transmissions?
Short answer, the higher stall is absolutely not the cause.

Putting a smaller stall in is NOT the solution to this problem. I run a 4400 stall making a whole lot more power, absolutley **** pound my car and it's doing just fine.

-Find out what keeps going out
- Post up what cooler you are running but even if you did not have a cooler I think it should be lasting much longer.

 

If you can, please post a more detailed account of what failed/how it felt in the car when it failed. Did it all seem to go to hell in a handbasket? Did you lose a particular gear first then the rest followed? Was it here today gone tomorrow?

Also, if your builder can share any photos of what failed, that would be helpful as well.

 

lost 3-4 gear. it felt fine. i tried to pass someone on the interstate 2 different trips before finally losing 3-4 and it downshifted and was max rpms and not wanting to upshift. i found it weird but didnt know it was about to die.

the builder called and said my clutches were toast but he didnt say 3-4, all, or exactly what. 1-2 and reverse all worked perfectly fine.

i dont know what cooler im running. i think i found it on here, possibly in a sticky thread for a recommendation. it was from summit but cant remember the brand or size

i changed the fluid probably 1000 miles or less before it died so the level was right. but i dont think i checked it after the shop originally built it and put it back in

 

If it lost just 3/4 then it's probably just a builder failure. Lost of "local" builders have no clue how to get them to live. If the rest of the clutches look fine then fluid level probably wasn't your issue.

 

Since you are burning all the clutches, I would say a low pressure condition could be the problem besides what was mentioned oil level or possible air. Make sure the oil temperature is 155F - 185F when driving it. Put the temperature sending unit in the top line going back to the transmission. This will give you "real world" temperatures. Put a 0 - 300 psi. gauge on this to see if the WOT pressures are down. Pressures should be 235 - 240 psi. range at WOT. If lower then this, it will have to be addressed by larger boost valve and possibly adjusting the EPC solenoid. Make sure the computer is operating correctly.

 

Couple things. The people you are talking to are ******* idiots. Your trans builder sounds old school that's why he is blaming the converter. Trans needs to be in good health, proper fluid level, and temps kept in check. Also, find a competent tuner. These trans LOVE more pressure applied to 2/3 and 3/4 shifts for holding power.

 

The only bad advice in this thread didn't come from any of the replies, but from this:

The group of folks who are responsible for the above quote are incorrect. 2200-2500 stall speed is a waste for an LS1, even a stock LS1. If you're going to pull the trans for a converter swap, 3000-3200 should be considered the minimum, but really ~3500 is better. This is not "too big", nor will it kill a healthy 4L60E (even a stock one) in 9k miles of daily driving if everything else is right. Hundreds of folks have run ~3500 stall speed units (or bigger) with stock/bolt-on LS1s and many have gotten 10s of thousands of miles out of even stock 4L60Es doing this. I personally did this for the first time 18 years ago with a Yank converter (SY3500) and a totally stock 4L60E plus a small B&M cooler. No problems.

One (or a combo) of the suggestions in the replies above is likely at the root of your issue. The higher stall speed by itself is not the real problem here.

 

A Yank converter will not cause this issue. I have one. Not to say I have not had my share of transmission issues, I have. But your issue, sounds the same as mine, and I know what my issue is. I have a internal fluid leak somewhere. Has/had your builder done a pressure check on your trans? Actually put a gauge on it and drove the car? In mine, my fluid pressure drops when it shifts into 3/4. This takes the coupling pressure off the clutch packs, and causes the slipage, thus, burning up the clutch packs. I personally, am done with the 65e's. I know I am going boosted here anytime and will make enough power to break a decent 65e, and I already have everything for a 80e swap, so for me and the $, I am going 80e.

 

The level 84 4l60 should suit you just fine.

 

Been running a yank ss3600 for 6 years on the stock 4l60e w a cooler. It can't be the stall.

 

 

Please don't blame it on "Old School" Many of the old school guys learned a lot over the years and the good ones are the ones teaching the newer generation.

We put the same converter in behind a stock 6.0/4l80e combo and if you take off easy you'd never know it had a higher than stock stall. Heat has never been an issue even on the hottest days.

 

My level 1 4l60e is holding fine, I can't even imagine how bullet proof a level 84 would be !

 

Must be down on power

 

Negative, just your usual 1.5x 60' 7100 shift points full weight 122mph + car

 

Impossible! We all know that even a well built 4L60E is on borrowed time with anything north of 280rwhp.