Ever had the reverse input drum snap ring pop off? (4l60e)
Ever had the reverse input drum snap ring pop off? (4l60e) So i exploded the output shaft in my 4l60 last weekend. I tore the trans down and all my clutches looked near perfect but I noticed the small snap ring in the reverse input drum had popped out of its groove. I've seen this once or twice before. Usually I'll put a new snap ring and I wont see it again, but I'm not so sure that was the cause. Anyone know what would cause it? should i just put a new snap ring in after every time its removed? I'm considering putting a heavy duty snap ring in this time, the one with holes at the ends.....if it has clearance.
Last edited by Kfxguy; Jan 22, 2019 at 10:32 AM.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Which drum...there is no low/reverse drum. There is a low/reverse piston. and the clutches spline to the rear planet....but there is no low/reverse drum
I don't think your post is making alot of sense to me.
I don't think your post is making alot of sense to me.
spring retainer. I was told if I had a spray failure it would overspin it and cause it to pop off. Which I didn’t exactly have a failure of the sprag but the races are scarred up from the exploded output shaft.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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Likes: 1,332
From: Iowa
Lots of guys over-extend that snap ring when installing. I would toss a new stock spring in it and move on. Not a failure I have seen in High HP builds or in High RPM builds.
An input sprag that doesn't hold will cause the reverse drum to WILDLY overspeed...It will flare the lugs and in some cases even cut the case in half...no joke.
Invest in a new sprag with new races
An input sprag that doesn't hold will cause the reverse drum to WILDLY overspeed...It will flare the lugs and in some cases even cut the case in half...no joke.
Invest in a new sprag with new races
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I have to replace pretty much everything anyways. Just wanted to avoid it happening again if it could. It was probably a result of the shaft exploding and destroying everything. I’ve built a lot of these things and I’ve never had a catastrophic failure like this one. All because of a weak shaft. It looks like the metallurgy wasn’t quite right in the center of the shaft.
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Personally I would never reuse a drum the snap ring has come off of , Note you can actually also modify a 400 direct or forward snap ring to fit we do this with brake units.it fits much tighter and because its wider it is forced to stay in place by the retainer.
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Thanks for the info. I’m not having much luck finding a new Snap ring for a 400. I’m considering using a quality mil-spec external Snap ring from McMaster Carr. I don’t think that the tangs will get in the way of anything but I’ll make sure.
Also. The retaining tabs on the release spring are just about useless. The placement of them was not very thought out, there’s enough gap that it still allows the ring to be able to pop out. My other idea is to make a tool that will make that same indention and make some close inbetween the original 4.
Also. The retaining tabs on the release spring are just about useless. The placement of them was not very thought out, there’s enough gap that it still allows the ring to be able to pop out. My other idea is to make a tool that will make that same indention and make some close inbetween the original 4.
That is why the 400 ring works well it actually sets against them in fact you have to remove a bit of material at each one
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Notreally we only have them around because of doing 400s for years , You might however try WIT WHATEVER IT TAKES TRANSMISSION PARTS , I think I got some there once ,
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I had a really had time finding that snap ring that fits tighter so I put two spot welds on it, thanks to the advice of maroonmonster. For now on, every build I do will have that snap ring spot welded. I like the fact that I don’t have to ever worry about it.