4l60e rebuild gone wrong
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
OK, noted. I will change the gasket to the later ones. Am pulling the trans again to vacuum test the pump as well as ensure the o ring on the input shaft is in place.
I'm so close that i cant give up yet!
I'm so close that i cant give up yet!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,615
Likes: 1,327
From: Iowa
This isn't a hard concept. If you're really so confused, just order valve body gaskets for an 04. They will work with the transgo plate.
There...easy enough to understand?
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
which gasket? Which of the gaskets in the link should I order? Going overboard here on the need to be sure...but I have a 3 or 4 week wait period before anything gets here.
Just don't want to order the wrong item!!
https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/...4L60E-gaskets/
Jake
Just don't want to order the wrong item!!
https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/...4L60E-gaskets/
Jake
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Pressure readings are:
At idle:
Park - 55psi
Reverse - 85psi
Neutral- 55psi
Drive - 55psi
Commanding PC solenoid in park:
1.07a - 55psi
1a - 55psi
0.9a - 70psi
0.8a - 100psi
0.7a - 130psi
0 6a - 155psi
0.5a - 175psi
0.4a - 185psi
0.3a - 190psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
0.2a - 190psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
0.1a - 195psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
At idle:
Park - 55psi
Reverse - 85psi
Neutral- 55psi
Drive - 55psi
Commanding PC solenoid in park:
1.07a - 55psi
1a - 55psi
0.9a - 70psi
0.8a - 100psi
0.7a - 130psi
0 6a - 155psi
0.5a - 175psi
0.4a - 185psi
0.3a - 190psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
0.2a - 190psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
0.1a - 195psi (gauge jumping +/- 5psi ish)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
So I blocked off the apply valve in the pump in the stroked position and the engine wouldnt stall when I put it into drive. There may have been a tiny bit of hesitation but nothing really noticable.
At this point I all I can come up with is the pump...
At this point I all I can come up with is the pump...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
I may have found the problem, when I apply air to the top of the input shaft, there is a substantial leak between the front stator and the bushing...I think if that doesnt seal then torque converter oil will backfeed into the tcc clutch preventing TCC apply.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,202
Likes: 1,390
From: Nitro Alley
If that is what you are talking about...
-This bushing must ALWAYS be in good shape.
-The turbine shaft must also be in good shape where the bushing runs on the shaft.
-This bushing essentially also serves as a TCC circuit seal.
-Slightly too much wear and tear at this location (bushing and/ or shaft) and both TCC circuits will leak into each other.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,202
Likes: 1,390
From: Nitro Alley
In terms of a leak in one or more of the automatic transmission torque converter clutch circuits...
Usually leaks will be found at:
-TCC regulator valvetrain.
-Automatic transmission control valve body to case gaskets/ separator plate (valve body/ or case may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged),
Also using an incorrect year or model separator plate and/ or gaskets can cause an interrupt in the circuits.
-TCC apply valvetrain.
-Automatic transmission pump assembly to case gasket (pump assembly or case may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged).
-Automatic transmission pump assembly (pump halves may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged).
-Automatic transmission pump assembly front seal.
-Automatic transmission pump assembly stator support front bushing (if badly worn, will create a leak between apply and release circuits).
-Automatic transmission turbine shaft (input shaft) assembly/ O-ring/ encapsulated check ball.
-Torque convertor assembly.
I may have missed something as i am exhausted, however that should be the bulk of it.
Usually leaks will be found at:
-TCC regulator valvetrain.
-Automatic transmission control valve body to case gaskets/ separator plate (valve body/ or case may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged),
Also using an incorrect year or model separator plate and/ or gaskets can cause an interrupt in the circuits.
-TCC apply valvetrain.
-Automatic transmission pump assembly to case gasket (pump assembly or case may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged).
-Automatic transmission pump assembly (pump halves may not have a flat enough surface to seal or may be damaged).
-Automatic transmission pump assembly front seal.
-Automatic transmission pump assembly stator support front bushing (if badly worn, will create a leak between apply and release circuits).
-Automatic transmission turbine shaft (input shaft) assembly/ O-ring/ encapsulated check ball.
-Torque convertor assembly.
I may have missed something as i am exhausted, however that should be the bulk of it.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Are you referring to the front bushing in the stator support tube?
If that is what you are talking about...
-This bushing must ALWAYS be in good shape.
-The turbine shaft must also be in good shape where the bushing runs on the shaft.
-This bushing essentially also serves as a TCC circuit seal.
-Slightly too much wear and tear at this location (bushing and/ or shaft) and both TCC circuits will leak into each other.
If that is what you are talking about...
-This bushing must ALWAYS be in good shape.
-The turbine shaft must also be in good shape where the bushing runs on the shaft.
-This bushing essentially also serves as a TCC circuit seal.
-Slightly too much wear and tear at this location (bushing and/ or shaft) and both TCC circuits will leak into each other.
hopefully i've found the problem then. The bushing itself is fine and sealing, but the surface on the stator that the bushing rides on is not (i gouged it a bit during removal of old bushing)
Is there any way to test if its sealing? I apply air through the input shaft when assembled in pump and reverse drum and theres a lot of leakage through that front pump bushing. Not sure if thats normal or not..hopefully not.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Success!! I put a remanned pump in and everything is perfect. Now.
I dont think I'll ever no for sure exactly what I did wrong, but my guesses are:
- Damaged/burred front of stator when replacing bushing
- front bushing not seated in the stator far enough. It was the wide bushing and was flush but was about 3 or 4mm above the lip.
So yeah if you come across a noob like me complaining of no lockup, obviously electrical and pressure and valve body issues are most likely cause, but if that doesnt solve the issue consider the front stator bushing leaking. A leak at this point as stated earlier will cause fluid to feed directly into the tcc causing no lockup, falling out of lockup, or viabrations as fluid is constantly leaking and exhausting at the same time.
I dont think I'll ever no for sure exactly what I did wrong, but my guesses are:
- Damaged/burred front of stator when replacing bushing
- front bushing not seated in the stator far enough. It was the wide bushing and was flush but was about 3 or 4mm above the lip.
So yeah if you come across a noob like me complaining of no lockup, obviously electrical and pressure and valve body issues are most likely cause, but if that doesnt solve the issue consider the front stator bushing leaking. A leak at this point as stated earlier will cause fluid to feed directly into the tcc causing no lockup, falling out of lockup, or viabrations as fluid is constantly leaking and exhausting at the same time.
Last edited by grasshopper645; Aug 4, 2019 at 07:19 PM.