which way do I go for a trans
which way do I go for a trans So I feel like the 4l60 in my trans am is on its way out. When I go to crank the car up after it has set for the night and set off to drive I get an rpm flare on the 2 to 3 shift and then after that it goes away. But when I am in overdrive I feel a small lerch that isn't noticeable unless you are looking for it.
In the ta it was 3530 and I figure with the prc stage 1 243s, torquer 2, lq4 bottom end, ls6 intake it should make say 420. I then plan to spray a 150-175 on it. so maybe 595 from the basic math. I know there is more to it than that.
I do plan on highway driving the car since any meet I go to will be roughly 70-80 miles 1 way for me.
I figured it would be a 2650 cost swap to go th350 but I don't think that would be to friendly to the build due to the drive it would be seeing. Or should I go and try to source a 4l80e swap (I assume a stock one can handle the abuse). I got quote 2350 by cahall for a 4l60 build that should handle 650-700 that has a billet output shaft (not including the shipping) or I can go with a performabuilt level 2 like most others have for the same price.
I figure going the 4l80 route I am going to be roughly the same price all in and done with everything else I would have to buy.
Which route would you go. I have been told that due to the weight of the car I would just be eating the 4l60s up and wasting my time.
There is also a local shop that does a similar build to a performabuilt level 2 for 850.
Do I really need the billet output shaft?
I am just all over as I only have made 2-3 passes on motor since getting the car together and know I cannot go play at the track anymore.
In the ta it was 3530 and I figure with the prc stage 1 243s, torquer 2, lq4 bottom end, ls6 intake it should make say 420. I then plan to spray a 150-175 on it. so maybe 595 from the basic math. I know there is more to it than that.
I do plan on highway driving the car since any meet I go to will be roughly 70-80 miles 1 way for me.
I figured it would be a 2650 cost swap to go th350 but I don't think that would be to friendly to the build due to the drive it would be seeing. Or should I go and try to source a 4l80e swap (I assume a stock one can handle the abuse). I got quote 2350 by cahall for a 4l60 build that should handle 650-700 that has a billet output shaft (not including the shipping) or I can go with a performabuilt level 2 like most others have for the same price.
I figure going the 4l80 route I am going to be roughly the same price all in and done with everything else I would have to buy.
Which route would you go. I have been told that due to the weight of the car I would just be eating the 4l60s up and wasting my time.
There is also a local shop that does a similar build to a performabuilt level 2 for 850.
Do I really need the billet output shaft?
I am just all over as I only have made 2-3 passes on motor since getting the car together and know I cannot go play at the track anymore.
1) If you have the money, do the 4l80.
2) the 4l60 can easily hold that power level if an idiot isnt building it.
3) for all motor, billet shaft isnt needed. For nitrous, well maybe not, but from what just happened to me at probably the same power level youd be at on the gas, I'd do the billet input and output shafts by sonnax. I learned a lesson the hard way, it costs more money to do it cheaper the first time. Do it right the first time. nitrous makes alot of tq, tq breaks parts.
4) if your going to drive the car, I wouldnt go three speed.
5) you'll still need to build the 4l80. From what i've read, they have their issues too that need to be addressed.
6) i'm only 3.5 hours from you, worse come to worse, i can meet you half way and build the 4l60 for you.
$850 sounds a little to good to be true in building it to hold that amount of power. If it sounds too good to be true.......
2) the 4l60 can easily hold that power level if an idiot isnt building it.
3) for all motor, billet shaft isnt needed. For nitrous, well maybe not, but from what just happened to me at probably the same power level youd be at on the gas, I'd do the billet input and output shafts by sonnax. I learned a lesson the hard way, it costs more money to do it cheaper the first time. Do it right the first time. nitrous makes alot of tq, tq breaks parts.
4) if your going to drive the car, I wouldnt go three speed.
5) you'll still need to build the 4l80. From what i've read, they have their issues too that need to be addressed.
6) i'm only 3.5 hours from you, worse come to worse, i can meet you half way and build the 4l60 for you.
$850 sounds a little to good to be true in building it to hold that amount of power. If it sounds too good to be true.......
FWIW, I have a heads/cam car with a 4l60e that Frank Cahall built for me 10 or 11 years ago and it has never skipped a beat. It has been abused like no other with countless 1/4 mile passes, burnouts, you name it. Buddy of mine also runs one of his transmissions and it's been excellent for him for several years now. Frank at CPT does good work, I definitely recommend him. Maybe see what he advises for your setup between going 4l60e or 4l80e. I like the 4l80e for the piece of mind it provides (when built right) but I am not sure what the overall cost would be to do it right or how involved the swap is. Either way, I wouldn't go 3-speed.
1) If you have the money, do the 4l80.
2) the 4l60 can easily hold that power level if an idiot isnt building it.
3) for all motor, billet shaft isnt needed. For nitrous, well maybe not, but from what just happened to me at probably the same power level youd be at on the gas, I'd do the billet input and output shafts by sonnax. I learned a lesson the hard way, it costs more money to do it cheaper the first time. Do it right the first time. nitrous makes alot of tq, tq breaks parts.
4) if your going to drive the car, I wouldnt go three speed.
5) you'll still need to build the 4l80. From what i've read, they have their issues too that need to be addressed.
6) i'm only 3.5 hours from you, worse come to worse, i can meet you half way and build the 4l60 for you.
$850 sounds a little to good to be true in building it to hold that amount of power. If it sounds too good to be true.......
2) the 4l60 can easily hold that power level if an idiot isnt building it.
3) for all motor, billet shaft isnt needed. For nitrous, well maybe not, but from what just happened to me at probably the same power level youd be at on the gas, I'd do the billet input and output shafts by sonnax. I learned a lesson the hard way, it costs more money to do it cheaper the first time. Do it right the first time. nitrous makes alot of tq, tq breaks parts.
4) if your going to drive the car, I wouldnt go three speed.
5) you'll still need to build the 4l80. From what i've read, they have their issues too that need to be addressed.
6) i'm only 3.5 hours from you, worse come to worse, i can meet you half way and build the 4l60 for you.
$850 sounds a little to good to be true in building it to hold that amount of power. If it sounds too good to be true.......
Its the same guy that builds mavnz
