Notices
Automatic Transmission 4L60E | 4L80E | TH350 | TH400 | TH2004R | Powerglide | Converters | Shift Kits
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Front bell housing leak

 
Old 04-14-2019, 01:32 PM
  #1  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default Front bell housing leak

Been avoiding fixing the issue but finally decided enough is enough. 04 4l60e has been having this minor leak by the bell housing, I assumed it could be bad bushings but it only has 40k miles since built. 2 stripped t50p bolts later i finally took it off today and saw its leaking from the bottom area of the pump to case area. So i was wondering if could just be a bad seal, I also noticed it must have a case to oring seal as opposed to the metal clad one of 04 and later unless the builder somehow left it out. I will replace the bushings regardless and inspect for wear. Also did my rear main and cover since i was at it.



What are your thoughts. Tanks in advance.
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-14-2019, 09:27 PM
  #2  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

Good and bad news, upon further teardown I discovered my leak was caused by a poorly installed gasket. The bad news is that my reverse drum was siting flush where the pump gasket lives, i tried moving things around to get it below but ended up disconnecting my 2-4 band. So i ended removing both drums and band. The band anchor seems to fit loose and I dont hear a click so i was wondering if that is normal. My question now is can i just get a new band/separator gaskets remove the valve body and install from scratch? Or is there a way to install the band without all those steps.


erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 11:41 AM
  #3  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

I was able to remove the accumulator piston anf pin and was able to re engage the band. My question now is how much below flush should the reverse drum be below the pump gasket. I was able to get it to below flush but just slightly, i kept moving it to see if it would go even lower but 5hats all i was able to get. I can move the shaft up and down so I assume all the cltches are engaged. I was wondering if that is all it needs as the reverse drum seems to be flush with the sunshell indexes. Sorry if i get names wrong pretty new to this.
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 01:32 PM
  #4  
TECH Fanatic
 
bbond105's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Poplarville, MS
Posts: 1,274
Default

That looks about right. Bolt the pump back up without the o-ring checking that the input shaft will still have some in and out movement every now and then. Once fully tightened and you still have endplay you should be good. Remove pump install o-ring and reinstall pump.
bbond105 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:52 PM
  #5  
TECH Junkie
 
98CayenneT/A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: White Bear, Mn
Posts: 3,120
Default

Looks right to me
98CayenneT/A is online now  
Old 04-15-2019, 04:57 PM
  #6  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

Awesome, I have new found respect for you guys that do these things on a regular basis, I ended up with roughly 0.18/0.19 end play although I measured with the tranny facing up. I will double check one I take it off the hoist. The pump went mostly back in fairly easy I had to tap it the last half inch of so to make it sit, I will post pics of the old bushings later, the middle one looked odd, and discolored. and rear one looked amazing to me, the front one looked good too, but I couldn't tell if it was normal wear since I'm pretty new to this, but it looked dark in the bearing material as opposed to the other 2. My only remaining question for you guys is if my pump has an oring groove that means it doesn't need a metal clad one going around the bell housing correct? Just making sure before I replace in the bell housing bolts, I ask this because it seemd to be leaking around the bottom area and one or 2 pump bolts. Thanks,
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:57 PM
  #7  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Jays_SSZ28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,892
Default

You can't put a metal clad seal in it. Theres no place for it to go. They were used beginning in 2006.
Also the pump o-ring and all of the bolt o-rings keep fluid in, not the gasket.
Jays_SSZ28 is online now  
Old 04-16-2019, 06:00 AM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
 
bbond105's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Poplarville, MS
Posts: 1,274
Default

Did you replace the big pump bushing that the converter hub rides in? It's the bushing behind the pump seal.

Last edited by bbond105; 04-16-2019 at 06:38 AM.
bbond105 is offline  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:00 AM
  #9  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default




Originally Posted by bbond105 View Post
Did you replace the big pump bushing that the converter hub rides in? It's the bushing behind the pump seal.
Yup! Replaced that one, out of the 3 that one was the one that looked the worse to me, the other 2 looked like new, the tc one looked blacked and easy to scratch with my finger nail if that means much, I will upload their pics later today.

Last edited by erickk120; 04-16-2019 at 10:43 AM.
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-16-2019, 11:25 AM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Jays_SSZ28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,892
Default

Originally Posted by erickk120 View Post
the tc one looked blacked and easy to scratch with my finger nail if that means much
It's probably babbitt or teflon lined.
Jays_SSZ28 is online now  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:38 PM
  #11  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28 View Post
It's probably babbitt or teflon lined.
Good to know, I was curious about that for a bit. The new ones seem to be copper/bronze, I installed the torque converter today, I believe that as long as the torque converted is below 1 inch of the bell housing it should be fully seated correct? I think I heard 3 clunks when it finally went below flush. From what I was reading "M 700 R4, 4L60E, 200-4R = 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads, distance may vary +/- .050". I used my calipers and I ended up with 1.071 give or take using a 2x4 so not a straight edge per se, its seated enough that I cant get my hands under the torque converter to grab it, like I could before I heard the last clunck. I'm pretty paranoid as I dont wanna end up breaking the pump due to a silly mistake.
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 10:54 AM
  #12  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

Well, everything went well. Install was quicker than the removal for me took me 5.5 hours as opposed as entire day for removal. I got to try it last night and it shifts just like before, cured the leaks, but in the process I ended up noticing a whine when shifting the first two gears it only does it when shifting, nothing when downshifting, around 15mph and 40ish I dont hear it in any other gear that am aware off, and it gets slightly louder when I hammer the gas, everything is working fine outside of the whine in those gears. Could it be the converter?
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 11:25 AM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
 
MaroonMonsterLS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,361
Default

I can't hear a darn thing in that video
MaroonMonsterLS1 is offline  
Old 04-18-2019, 01:10 PM
  #14  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1 View Post
I can't hear a darn thing in that video
Sorry, here is a better clip hopefully,. I only noticed it after warming up this time. If you listen right after 2k rpm it does it, its the same but lower at the 35/40ish shift which the video didnt catch, because my phone is a potato.
erickk120 is offline  
Old 04-19-2019, 08:08 PM
  #15  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 92
Default

It drives fine, and shifts fine. I'm just paranoid as to if I should worry about it, or if anybody has a clue what could be causing the sound.
erickk120 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: