Hi all...got a '95 4L60e...put a Transgo plate in and am wondering if the gasket pic'd below is suitable? And what O-ring would I use in the place indicated on the other pic? Any O-ring, or does it have to be a specific type?
Thanks for any help! Jake

 

The o ring is specific. It will be for a 298mm input shaft

 

o ring is specific. It comes in the paper/rubber kit for the rebuild

the t go plate should come with instructions for which gaskets
if not...call them.

 

Thanks for the replies!
Ordered a new Transgo plate...this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4L60E-GM-46...EAAOSwDJRbkDP7
Running out of time...snow's disappearing, ferry'll be operating in a few weeks...can't afford to have the ol' '95 up on blocks too much longer.

Found the O-Ring through RockAuto....item cost (3 rings) .45 cent...shipping $26.91. Add taxes HST, duty charges...and

It's okay to drill that plate according to the suggested dimensions I got from clinebarger and PBA, right?

Thanks again for response.

Jake

 

Two of the most experienced guys on this page giving you dimensions to drill...yea. I'd say you're ok to drill the plate according to them

 

One PROBLEM...

You purchased TransGo separtator plate Part #46-PLT-07 for 2007 and 2008 model year 4L60E transmissions.
You stated that, you have a 1995 model year 4L60E transmission.
This would mean you have the incorrect part.
1995 was an odd-ball year for the 4l60E.

You are going to want to return that TransGo separtator plate.
Instead you should purchase TransGo separtator plate Part #46-PLT-95 for 1995 model year units specifically.

 

The gasket to use with the TransGo separator plate is the later ones with the "white stripe". These are the same as the ones that come in the HD2 kit. Once you drill the separator plate, make sure the gaskets "do not" cover any of the holes you drilled. Are you going to use Torlon checkballs?

 

Posted the wrong link....this is the one I ordered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/350166199504

Another great thing on here...people catch things and let you know!

 

Got too cautious about tracking down just the gaskets, so opted for the plate and gaskets combo. Make that overcautious!
Will do on matching the gasket holes to the re-drilled plate holes.
I'm using torlon *****.
Removing the valve body for a couple of reasons:
1. to drill that small hole to take full advantage of the HD 2-3 shift valve
2. use a steel ball to create a seat for the torlon *****...a few light taps should do this?
3. and this time match the gasket holes to the redrilled plate

Planning on having it back in the truck by the end of May. Will it work? I hope. But I've read that 1/2 of all trannies built by amateurs like me don't work....sooo, if it fails I'll only be 1/2 as irritated as I might have been had I not read that!!! We'll see.

Mighty grateful for all the help I've found on here!!

jl

 

"full advantage" of the 2-3 shift valve?

If you don't drill the hole in the valve body casting you aren't getting ANY advantage to the valve.

 

"If you don't drill the hole in the valve body casting you aren't getting ANY advantage to the valve".

That's a good one.......

I needed a "good laugh".

 

@PBA Can't tell if you're serious and needed a laugh...or if you're saying i'm missing something and you're laughing at how dumb I may be

If it's the latter, im cool with that as long as we all can learn from it

 

I thought it was funny....in the way you said it.

Dunno where I read it (on here somewhere maybe) that cutting a narrow slice out of the gasket would work with the valve. So okay, I did that.
Then read that that was a foolish idea and that the hole was needed. Gives me a reason to pull the valve body...which meant new gaskets, which meant....

jl

 

Nah, there is no way you scewed that up. You have always contributed good information. :-)

As you both stated... There is no point to the new valve without that hole.

You have to create a cross-leak between circuits 34 and 35 (D3 and Overrun).

 

You can cut the gasket as Sonnax suggest. If you do not like having this valve installed, then you will only need to install the original valve and and replace the valve body gasket. This would be much easier than plugging the drilled out hole.

"to take full advantage" of the 2-3 shift valve?
Your comment was correct. Installing the valve without the hole in the channel casting would make the valve useless as to its purpose of holding on the overruns, and therefore "no advantage"....